I say get the performance. I still regret not getting the performance, instead I have FSD, paid 7k for it back then. Much rather spent that for performance Model. What you can do is try acceleration boost for 2 days and get a refund, then go test drive a performance and see if you can tell the difference. A performance model will always give you better resell value. Take advantage of this crazy market.
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Anyone regret buying the Acceleration Boost for their Model Y?
- Thread starter FormationLap
- Start date
Needs and wants are two different things
If the MYP had 7 seats, I'd be driving that right now instead of a LR+Boost, lol.
On the Y it makes more sense than the 3 for the price delta between the P and LR. Then again you don't get track mode with the MYP but do with the M3P.
Tesla should have done more to differentiate their performance model 3/Y's than the limited amount they did. For the most part, all you really get is quicker 0-60 and that is pretty much it. That is all they really focus on too. No real performance boost past that, unfortunately. It isn't like it keeps pulling from 60 to gap the slower car even more at the other end of the 1/4 mile. Basically, the P gaps the LR with boost to about 60, and from then on doesn't really pull it at all. There isn't a huge difference in trap speeds either.
Contrast that with the Plaid. It beats the MS LR to 60 by about 1 second (the LR when measured like the Plaid does 0-60 in about 2.8 seconds). At the other end the Plaid is still pulling on the MS LR (likely the same situation with the Plaid X and X LR but haven't seen numbers for X LR). Plaid will beat the MS LR by about 1.6 seconds (9.2 vs 10.8) and another 20 mph faster (150mph vs 130).
That is how I think the 3/Y P's should have been vs the LR's but they are not.
Tesla should have done more to differentiate their performance model 3/Y's than the limited amount they did. For the most part, all you really get is quicker 0-60 and that is pretty much it. That is all they really focus on too. No real performance boost past that, unfortunately. It isn't like it keeps pulling from 60 to gap the slower car even more at the other end of the 1/4 mile. Basically, the P gaps the LR with boost to about 60, and from then on doesn't really pull it at all. There isn't a huge difference in trap speeds either.
Contrast that with the Plaid. It beats the MS LR to 60 by about 1 second (the LR when measured like the Plaid does 0-60 in about 2.8 seconds). At the other end the Plaid is still pulling on the MS LR (likely the same situation with the Plaid X and X LR but haven't seen numbers for X LR). Plaid will beat the MS LR by about 1.6 seconds (9.2 vs 10.8) and another 20 mph faster (150mph vs 130).
That is how I think the 3/Y P's should have been vs the LR's but they are not.
I thought when I ordered mine in 8/20 the diff was about 10K.
Yes, I got the 20" wheels but not AB until later. NJ had a 5K rebate going at the time and the red + wheels came in at 54990 just $10 shy of the cutoff. So an MYP would have cost another 5K in lost rebate.
I basically got the 20" because I thought the 19 was ugly. In retrospect I should have gone 19, bought a 19 similar to the 20 from TSP and saved the OEM for snows. Probably for not much more money in the end.
Yes, I got the 20" wheels but not AB until later. NJ had a 5K rebate going at the time and the red + wheels came in at 54990 just $10 shy of the cutoff. So an MYP would have cost another 5K in lost rebate.
I basically got the 20" because I thought the 19 was ugly. In retrospect I should have gone 19, bought a 19 similar to the 20 from TSP and saved the OEM for snows. Probably for not much more money in the end.
Tedkidd
Member
Yes, get the P.
Trade LR to Tesla.
Taxes at this price level pretty significantly eat into your advantage of selling independently and of late it seems Tesla is being much more competitive on offers.
You are likely to drive many 1000 miles, get all your money back, not have to figure out how to deal with ownership overlap, and avoid paying taxes twice.
I have 2 extra LR Y's right now (early reservations Elon said "take or lose it" to), so I'm bouncing between cars a lot.
The P is just soooo satisfying. Possible bias: Having BETA may influence my opinion somewhat.
I'm enjoying introducing to EV frightened friends and family what these cars are really like to live with.
I'm requiring 14-50 if people want to borrow for more than 2 days.
Probably going to save these extra cars to trade for CYBR.
DON'T TRADE LR to TESLA! If you retail your LR, you'll get probably close to what the MYP will cost you at your locked in price.
@Freshness - Having said that, at the price you are at with your LR, I'd just keep it. You can drive it probably for 2 years for free. There is no way the MYP is worth 14k more than what you paid for the LR. The P isn't a huge upgrade over the LR. Drive your Y for a while and see what Tesla does with something cooler/better.
Thanks guys. Yeah I was considering it because I can get offers from dealers around 67-68 so I would only add about 5k after taxes for the P.
I am also weighing out wether or not to drive the Y for a year and hold my order. And then upgrade in the future if/when there’s new things to look forward to.
My LR only has 219 miles on it as of this post. And I love it!!
I have experienced the faster acceleration and know that I’d love it even more, but a part of me thinks waiting a year or two would open me up to a better upgrade.
Problem is—I’m the type that heavily modifies vehicles. I already have lowering springs and a wrap planned so I will likely lose more money if I end up keeping it for awhile.
Just to cosign....if you need it to be more MYP like, get the boost, get your calipers painted, or get covers, and enjoy the HUGE price difference you have. Unless you are drag racing, the MYLR is plenty quick and the additional AB will be even quicker.
brandon8387
Member
Me, I stuck with the 19s and black interior and spent the 2k on the AB
I don't believe there's any proof that AB will degrade your battery faster. Obviously if you go to the track every weekend with it, the answer might be different.
I don't know about that. Does the performance Model use the same battery as the long range? If yes, then isn't this a bigger problem for performance Y? I had AB before I sold my long range and is waiting for a per model now. My range changes all the time. As weather was getting warmer, I see my total range actually went up. How do you explain that?
This is normal. Lithium batteries perform best in the range of 75F to 85F. The estimated range factors in temperature.
Yep, range changes for various reasons. temperature affects it, but mostly it's BMS calibration. Yes, the performance models have the same battery as the long range versions.
I know that. Just stating that range changes all the time. It can be up and down. 2km in a day is nothing to worry about. Doubt it's ties to AB.
That is one reason why I prefer to display the state of charge (SOC) instead of the estimated range. The displayed SOC can decrease by 3% in colder temperatures but overall SOC does not drop except for preconditioning, driving.
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