Anyone retrofitted air suspension? Or done a custom airbag setup?

[dzmconstr]

I've been building low cars for a couple of decades. I've worked with Universal Air products (mentioned above), AirBagIt products and others. Love all of their products, by the way. Anyway, the quick and dirty. I was going to get the air ride Model S but I do not like Tesla's control system for it. I decided to build my own separate setup so that I could have full control of the system. I wanted to build a typical bellows bag air strut for the car but the Model S has very small strut towers and a bellows (of the correct capacity, at least half the car's weight) would not fit. That's a 2,500-lb air bag. The bag is about 1/2" too large. I could have gone with a smaller bag but didn't want to do that (yet). I decided to use Tesla's air struts (which are sleeve style bags... which I'm typically not a fan of) in the meantime. Not sure what details you want but feel free to ask questions. Messing with cars is what I do and there's no car design out there that's so scary great that I won't play around with it.

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That is sick! You obviously are a pro at this, because that looks professional!

Dzm

 

[tsmithlxix]

That is sick! You obviously are a pro at this, because that looks professional!

Dzm

Nah... just an amateur, but thanks.

 

[BigCity]

Do you plan to try to use an isolator from the DC-DC converter to charge the second battery, or just wire it parallel and hope for the best? I was thinking that if I were to just run a custom stereo I'd probably try to run it off of a large capacitor or bank of capacitors before trying to tap into the Tesla 12V system with another battery... just to try to avoid any huge amplifier spikes to the converter from heavy bass. It'll be interesting to hear what you decide to do with it.

I was planning on running them in parallel, replace the stock 12V with a lithium 12V and then add 2 more in the rear, I figure with 3 lithium that the car likely would not even see any difference. Though you make a good point, I could always monitor the current draw and see if seems to be significant. I had talked with a couple custom installers, one in particular has done several Tesla's with a similar setup and had no issues.

So did your Tesla have air ride before you modified it? That's where my previous question came from earlier. If I were to manually control the air struts I'm thinking you would have to lock the stock air ride sensors in a normal ride position so that the car wouldn't try to make adjustments. Even then I'm wondering how the system would react if it had 0 pressure, guessing compressor would kick on, so maybe have to keep the stock system pressurized?

What size air lines do the stock struts use?

 

[tsmithlxix]

I was planning on running them in parallel, replace the stock 12V with a lithium 12V and then add 2 more in the rear, I figure with 3 lithium that the car likely would not even see any difference.

I seriously don't think you will have a problem installing them in parallel. It's just that I'm equating the DC-DC converter with an alternator. I'm pretty sure the DC-DC can handle the discharge on the 12V batteries, I'd just be concerned about surges especially if you're pounding out some serious bass. Alternators are typically beefed up for this purpose but I don't think AC Delco is selling us a high output DC-DC converter just yet. LOL!!!! That's why I'd probably add a cap(s) to help take up some of that slack.

So did your Tesla have air ride before you modified it? ...What size air lines do the stock struts use?

As I explained earlier my car did not have air ride. I thought I wanted the air ride Model S but after discovering how the Tesla system controlled it I found it to be too restrictive. I'm an old school hydraulic/air bag guy and I want FULL control, ALL of the time. My air ride setup is totally separate from the Tesla when it comes to control and power.
Tesla's stock struts use 6mm x 1.5mm DOT tubing (if I remember correctly). My setup is plumbed for 3/8" because my plan was to install a custom air strut. Since I ended up using Tesla's struts I had to adapt from 3/8" to 6mm. Not a problem, just slower than my usual juiced/bagged car.

 

[Gbills]

I seriously don't think you will have a problem installing them in parallel. It's just that I'm equating the DC-DC converter with an alternator. I'm pretty sure the DC-DC can handle the discharge on the 12V batteries, I'd just be concerned about surges especially if you're pounding out some serious bass. Alternators are typically beefed up for this purpose but I don't think AC Delco is selling us a high output DC-DC converter just yet. LOL!!!! That's why I'd probably add a cap(s) to help take up some of that slack.




As I explained earlier my car did not have air ride. I thought I wanted the air ride Model S but after discovering how the Tesla system controlled it I found it to be too restrictive. I'm an old school hydraulic/air bag guy and I want FULL control, ALL of the time. My air ride setup is totally separate from the Tesla when it comes to control and power.
Tesla's stock struts use 6mm x 1.5mm DOT tubing (if I remember correctly). My setup is plumbed for 3/8" because my plan was to install a custom air strut. Since I ended up using Tesla's struts I had to adapt from 3/8" to 6mm. Not a problem, just slower than my usual juiced/bagged car.

How much did this air suspension cost you?

 

[tsmithlxix]

How much did this air suspension cost you?

Except for the struts this setup has been scavenged over the years from my last two cars (a Magnum and a Fusion Hybrid). But I'd say you can probably get everything I have (including struts) for under $2K. Or you can probably put together an even simpler system (open-close, pressure-based system) for a bit over $1,500. Or you can pay a lot more because some people just like doing that.

 

[selfbp]

Except for the struts this setup has been scavenged over the years from my last two cars (a Magnum and a Fusion Hybrid). But I'd say you can probably get everything I have (including struts) for under $2K. Or you can probably put together an even simpler system (open-close, pressure-based system) for a bit over $1,500. Or you can pay a lot more because some people just like doing that.

You have actually blown my mind that awesome you did all that! I started this thread a while back so I probably wont be doing this as of right now... but all I can say is wow, for an "amateur" you've impressed all us twits with Teslas 100% !

 

[Gbills]

I wish I lived closer. I would be knocking on your door to have this setup installed on my model S. Very impressive.

 

[BigCity]

Ahh my apologies I totally overlooked that part, makes way more sense now. This would have been a super simple setup if you've done it before and don't have to worry about the stock setup. I'm like you had a few hydraulic trucks back in the day, never got around to air bags, though always wanted to try. I think in my older age I may be ok with a basic system that maybe has 3 presets for OH DAMN are you scraping, normal ride height, and maybe a higher setting for special cases.....that is until my ocd bug of having the best kicks in lol.

I may modify my setup to add one battery to the rear instead of two and then maybe a small capacitor bank for the surges as you mention.

I seriously don't think you will have a problem installing them in parallel. It's just that I'm equating the DC-DC converter with an alternator. I'm pretty sure the DC-DC can handle the discharge on the 12V batteries, I'd just be concerned about surges especially if you're pounding out some serious bass. Alternators are typically beefed up for this purpose but I don't think AC Delco is selling us a high output DC-DC converter just yet. LOL!!!! That's why I'd probably add a cap(s) to help take up some of that slack.
As I explained earlier my car did not have air ride. I thought I wanted the air ride Model S but after discovering how the Tesla system controlled it I found it to be too restrictive. I'm an old school hydraulic/air bag guy and I want FULL control, ALL of the time. My air ride setup is totally separate from the Tesla when it comes to control and power.
Tesla's stock struts use 6mm x 1.5mm DOT tubing (if I remember correctly). My setup is plumbed for 3/8" because my plan was to install a custom air strut. Since I ended up using Tesla's struts I had to adapt from 3/8" to 6mm. Not a problem, just slower than my usual juiced/bagged car.

 

[tsmithlxix]

I'm like you had a few hydraulic trucks back in the day, never got around to air bags, though always wanted to try.

Ahhhh, a fellow juice head. Those were the days, right? Banging up and down the street, dragging titanium and steel blocks around to throw sparks (or inverted hitch balls). Were we nuts, or what? I finally tried air with my Magnum. I'm a big fan. I still sometimes miss the speed and performance of juice but air really is great.

I may modify my setup to add one battery to the rear instead of two and then maybe a small capacitor bank for the surges as you mention.

I remember seeing a pic somewhere online where an audio shop had installed the second battery under the "frunk pan". I remember that it appeared to be a RWD Model S and the battery was in the area where the front motor would be. I'm not sure if yours is AWD or RWD but if you have the room that seems to be a good spot for a sealed, maintenance-free battery. (I'm a big fan of Odyssey, by the way.) Then you could put a nice looking capacitor or bank of them in either the frunk or trunk. Nice!!!!

 

[BigCity]

Ahhhh, a fellow juice head. Those were the days, right? Banging up and down the street, dragging titanium and steel blocks around to throw sparks (or inverted hitch balls). Were we nuts, or what? I finally tried air with my Magnum. I'm a big fan. I still sometimes miss the speed and performance of juice but air really is great.

I remember seeing a pic somewhere online where an audio shop had installed the second battery under the "frunk pan". I remember that it appeared to be a RWD Model S and the battery was in the area where the front motor would be. I'm not sure if yours is AWD or RWD but if you have the room that seems to be a good spot for a sealed, maintenance-free battery. (I'm a big fan of Odyssey, by the way.) Then you could put a nice looking capacitor or bank of them in either the frunk or trunk. Nice!!!!

No doubt that poor S10 that I had when from 3-4" lower blocks and cut coils, to hyrdro's in the rear only, then to the front, then the incessant urge to add batteries every few weeks. The speed and shock that those brought to unsuspecting people was priceless lol. Not sure I could do them now, especially not on the tesla, but they are fond memories.

I have the P100D so no real room in the front short of taking up the frunk space, which really would be ok since I never use that for anything. My stereo was going to take up much of the rear cubby, 4 amps, and 2-10" subs in the recesses to the left and right. Planned on tucking a battery under the sub enclosures on the right or left, possibly squeeze cap bank on the other side. That leaves little space for a custom air system if I got crazy, perhaps under the amp rack if there was enough height.

 

[tsmithlxix]

No doubt that poor S10 that I had when from 3-4" lower blocks and cut coils, to hyrdro's in the rear only, then to the front, then the incessant urge to add batteries every few weeks. The speed and shock that those brought to unsuspecting people was priceless lol. Not sure I could do them now, especially not on the tesla, but they are fond memories.

My personal 'worst craziness' was 8 batteries in an '87 Cougar with ALL 96-volts going to 2 pumps. After that nuttiness I calmed down to 48V to each pump then settled on 36V per pump on cars after that. There was no slight movements on that first setup. Almost every tap of the switch got the thing off the ground. That Cougar also had a wall with 4 Kicker Comp 12's and 2 old school Fosgate 250a2's. Yeah, nuts. LOL!

I have the P100D so no real room in the front short of taking up the frunk space, which really would be ok since I never use that for anything. My stereo was going to take up much of the rear cubby, 4 amps, and 2-10" subs in the recesses to the left and right. Planned on tucking a battery under the sub enclosures on the right or left, possibly squeeze cap bank on the other side. That leaves little space for a custom air system if I got crazy, perhaps under the amp rack if there was enough height.

Sounds like a solid plan. So many options with our trunks, side storages and footwell.

 

[BigCity]

My personal 'worst craziness' was 8 batteries in an '87 Cougar with ALL 96-volts going to 2 pumps. After that nuttiness I calmed down to 48V to each pump then settled on 36V per pump on cars after that. There was no slight movements on that first setup. Almost every tap of the switch got the thing off the ground. That Cougar also had a wall with 4 Kicker Comp 12's and 2 old school Fosgate 250a2's. Yeah, nuts. LOL!

Sounds like a solid plan. So many options with our trunks, side storages and footwell.

I was more into car audio toward the end, biggest system was 8-10” JL W3 with 4000W worth of Phoenix gold power In the extended cab of the same S10. Seems silly but it was the challenge of building it and seeing people’s reactions lol. There was no valid reasoning or purpose for such things but man was it fun.

 

[tsmithlxix]

I was more into car audio toward the end, biggest system was 8-10” JL W3 with 4000W worth of Phoenix gold power In the extended cab of the same S10. Seems silly but it was the challenge of building it and seeing people’s reactions lol. There was no valid reasoning or purpose for such things but man was it fun.

NICE !!!!

 

[cucubits]

Sad to see this thread died so suddenly over a year ago. It is an interesting subject and I have to admit I also wish I had waited to find an S with air suspension.

If a solution would show itself, most likely I'd talk myself into paying a few $k for this.

Also, I love the idea of a completely separate system from Tesla's controls.

 

[tsmithlxix]

Sad to see this thread died so suddenly over a year ago. It is an interesting subject and I have to admit I also wish I had waited to find an S with air suspension.

If a solution would show itself, most likely I'd talk myself into paying a few $k for this.

Also, I love the idea of a completely separate system from Tesla's controls.

Funny... when I was looking for my car all I could find were those with air suspension (with the options that I wanted). And I definitely didn't want Tesla's or any other manufacturer's air suspension setup. When it comes to suspension and stereos, I've always liked my own better than any manufacturer's. (Admittedly, I haven't messed with the premium sound in the Model S. Only, because if I did I would end up adding way too much weight to an electric car.)

 

[cucubits]

My reason to do this would be only to get a smoother and softer ride. I don't care that much about planted cornering or whatever comes with harder suspension.

When I bought it, I did a bunch of research on which suspension is better and at that time I came to the conclusion it wouldn't make much of a difference. I wish I could have driven a coil setup before buying it.

 

[MaxTorque]

Since I put a Revozport Tesla Widebody Kit on my 2017 MS75D without air shocks, it got another 1" (25mm) closer to the ground. I have been looking for a solution to raise it up when I need to clear obstacles (speed bumps, rough railway tracks, steep driveways or deep snow). I like tsmithlxix's solution, but I am not that handy. I think that I have found a solution: BC Racing BR Series Coilovers (Coilover Suspension Kits) which will lower the stance 1" (25mm), which will look great, but then add Hybrid-Air Coilover Lift Kits that will raise the car up 3" to 5" (75 - 125mm) with the airbags. This would work for me (Coilover Lifts). Hybrid-Air also has a HIDEAWAY AIR MANAGEMENT KIT to control ride height that will fit in the rear storage area or in the Frunk. This setup would give me good coilover performance and stance, and the air lift kits just add height when needed.
Has anyone tried this setup in their MS?

 

[Uncle Paul]

Believe the most efficient way to add air suspension to your coiled S is to sell your car on the retail market, and buy a similar S, with air suspension, also on the retail market.

Another option is to sell your existing S and buy a slightly used Raven, with the adaptable air suspension. Big improvement there as well.

 

[tsmithlxix]

Believe the most efficient way to add air suspension to your coiled S is to sell your car on the retail market, and buy a similar S, with air suspension, also on the retail market.

Another option is to sell your existing S and buy a slightly used Raven, with the adaptable air suspension. Big improvement there as well.

That may be efficient for some, but personally, I didn't like or want Tesla's standard air ride system so adding my own works better for me.