Rear passenger door. Anyone have this issue and have it fixed? What was causing the rattle? SC tightened the latch mechanism. The door sounded solid afterward. Two hours later after the drive home the noise was back, seemingly worse. Almost a month to get another SC appointment. Tesla said they would charge me $268 to replace the latch in case it's the problem since the latch isn't "broken and is operational."
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Anyone successfully fix this door rattle?
- Thread starter jim0266
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- door rattle rattles
There’s a few rattle threads about this with no solutions, I have to pull my rear door panels off today to replace the speakers. I will look for loose wires that are hitting the metal parts of the door. You have the wires to the speakers and wires to the door mechanism. So my only guess is these wires coming loose from a clip and hitting something.
Fred
Fred
@jim0266 were you able to fix this yourself or did you pay them to replace it? I had mine replaced once, and the noise it back.
@nickID I still have it. I had Ranger take a look. Unfortunately whatever he did was not effective. I think he futzed with door panel connectors.
So they replaced the latch inside your door? Did you notice any elimination of a rattle before the noise came back?
I have this vague sound that seems to come the area on that side. Kind of a shushing sound. It manifests on hard hits like expansion joints or heaving concrete that causes a good vertical travel. I've fixed so many noises it's hard to tell what's normal as the car is so unforgiving on bad streets and a harsh ride that amplifies road noise. I would like to get that door to sound solid like my other doors to eliminate that as a cause.
So they replaced the latch inside your door? Did you notice any elimination of a rattle before the noise came back?
I have this vague sound that seems to come the area on that side. Kind of a shushing sound. It manifests on hard hits like expansion joints or heaving concrete that causes a good vertical travel. I've fixed so many noises it's hard to tell what's normal as the car is so unforgiving on bad streets and a harsh ride that amplifies road noise. I would like to get that door to sound solid like my other doors to eliminate that as a cause.
Yeah, replacing the latch eliminated the severity of the noise enough that driving no longer triggered it; it was still possible to trigger it (although much more quietly) by hitting the latch area with a fist. However, the noise is back now during driving about a month after replacing the part.
Interestingly, the service guy said the new part (before installation) made the same noise if he shook it. I’m thinking my original latch and the replacement must both be faulty, since none of my other 3 doors make the sound
I’m wondering if there’s a spot on the latch that could use some locktite and a good tightening to solve it once and for all.
I didn't have this rattle, but had a squeaking sound inside my passenger door that I traced to a zip tie on the cabling leading to the latch. The zip tie was rubbing against the interior metal and producing the awful squeaking. In my case, the zip tie was trimmed pretty much to the base. It was very difficult to discover this since I didn't want to disassemble the entire door, so I partially disassembled and felt my way around with my hand.
There aren't many parts inside the door, so if you are adventurous enough to disassemble it, you can probably pinpoint the cause.
Wild guess: It's possible that this rattle is due to a zip tie that wasn't trimmed, so the end of the zip tie is loosely bouncing against the door.
There aren't many parts inside the door, so if you are adventurous enough to disassemble it, you can probably pinpoint the cause.
Wild guess: It's possible that this rattle is due to a zip tie that wasn't trimmed, so the end of the zip tie is loosely bouncing against the door.
This same rattle…
I identified it to the noise made by the manual door latch release cable (not used on model 3—buried in side the door) inside of the door latch assembly.
It seemed to me that it was under a slack and was free to move around a body of the latch mechanism. Putting the cable either under the tension or forcing more of it into the assembly eliminated the rattle.
When I removed the door's interior cover, the foam covered end of the release cable (circled in green on the attached image) was free floating. I tucked it under a side of the window regulator and secured with a bit of extra foam tape. This pushed the metallic cable itself down just a few millimeters, but just enough to add more points of contact within the guide for the cable in the latch assembly itself, which in combination with the relative stiffness of the cable was just enough for it to stop flopping around in the latch mechanism assembly.
To be fair, I wish I figured all of this before almost fully stripping down the door. What you see on the image is just under the panel that is removable by removing the handle screws and releasing the clips of the interior rear passenger door panel.
As an aside, I assume that the ranger did a rushed job, when they replaced a handle in the car pre pandemic, as I could see that all of the cables were not in their guides and the cable mating connectors were not in their holders.
I identified it to the noise made by the manual door latch release cable (not used on model 3—buried in side the door) inside of the door latch assembly.
It seemed to me that it was under a slack and was free to move around a body of the latch mechanism. Putting the cable either under the tension or forcing more of it into the assembly eliminated the rattle.
When I removed the door's interior cover, the foam covered end of the release cable (circled in green on the attached image) was free floating. I tucked it under a side of the window regulator and secured with a bit of extra foam tape. This pushed the metallic cable itself down just a few millimeters, but just enough to add more points of contact within the guide for the cable in the latch assembly itself, which in combination with the relative stiffness of the cable was just enough for it to stop flopping around in the latch mechanism assembly.
To be fair, I wish I figured all of this before almost fully stripping down the door. What you see on the image is just under the panel that is removable by removing the handle screws and releasing the clips of the interior rear passenger door panel.
As an aside, I assume that the ranger did a rushed job, when they replaced a handle in the car pre pandemic, as I could see that all of the cables were not in their guides and the cable mating connectors were not in their holders.
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