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Anyone try B.A Design works speakers/sub upgrades?

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Yes, the ultimate sound kit was installed in my MS and yes it is a huge difference in sound. I will agree with some of the other forum members that the sound quality from the OE speakers vs the B.A design works speakers aren't too far off from each other. I mean, the new speakers are built very well, looks great, the magnet is a lot bigger and the sound produced is much much louder but the quality doesn't seem like "O, my god Mariah Carey is hitting all the high notes right next to me live".....thats a little dramatization but you get what I mean. I am by no means unhappy with the professionalism of Brody and Steven that came all the way from Roseville to Hanford where I live to do a custom install at my home. I am happy with the door speaks alone. If you turned off the Sub in the rear and just listen to the main door speakers it sounds a lot louder and even has some more base. The sub actually hits hard and mine was rated for 613 Watts instead of the 500 watts that the website stated.
Obviously I paid for the home install service but I wasn't expecting Brody himself to come to my house. Him and Steven answered all my questions, they were very polite and professional and they didn't put any of the panels removed off my car on the ground during removal/install. This was a very big pet peeve of mine. I did NOT pay all this money for a Tesla for anyone outside myself to scratch or break anything. Also they did NOT break anything, NOT one panel was scratched, broken, scarped or gouged. Brody did come thru for me and installed sound proofing/deading material inside the door panels. They did NOT install sound deading in the rear behind the subwoofer like they said but I did not get upset as I felt like I asked sooooooooo many questions that it was part of the reason they didn't meet there time frame for a usual install. Apparently they have an idea of how much time they spend on these Tesla's as they have 2 of there own back at there shop. They did NOT bring the right fuse for the Sub/AMP breaker wire that gets installed on the 12V battery. So between that plus my hundred questions and the fact that I was NOT going to leave them and my car alone with this install I think they went a lot slower than they usually do. Now I don't want to come off as one of those dudes that too territorial and can't relax but I was more interested in how the car looked with some of the panels removed and I really got to see how cheap Tesla went with some of the panels and choice of parts. Did you know that Tesla uses Toyota and Mercedes Benz parts, and clips since they had a contract with them at some point? Well Brody explained everything I pointed to, explained how it worked and showed me how to remove the products he's installing in the car....I.E Speakers, LC2i, Sub and Amp. The only thing I have to do now is, tune the car to my liking. They tuned the car to the volume I would normally listen to and type of music I liked but I think the base is hitting a bit too hard for me so I will have to get with my friends that understanding audio/tuning to help get it where I want it. I like the option to turn off the sub completely if I choose and any time.

***This post is NOT meant for anyone to be influenced against or for buying this product. This is just my experience please do your research as there are a lot of other options you can consider. I don't work for these guys, i'm just an average joe trying to enjoy my MS even though I secretly want to drive/own a Model 3. **** Please don't bash me for MY own opinion, Thanks!!!****

Thanks for the detailed revievew. What you described is about what I expect. I just received my kit yesterday and plan on having it installed this weekend. I’m the odd man out on this one but my primary objective in upgrading the sound was to address the distortion that resonates from the door speakers when talking on the phone via Bluetooth. Better sound for music is just gravy on top.

Interesting that the Reus audio guys said they replace the tweeters and don’t touch the door speakers on their installs. So upgrading tweeters may be a final step if more clarity is desired.
 
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OOOO one more thing. I do NOT drive my MS on a daily basis as I live in an area w really bad road ways and getting paint chips happens too frequently. I have a daily commuter (non ev) so I won't be driving it until the weekend and something I noticed today after work is I need to adjust the carpet on the drivers side behind the drivers seat because it is NOT installed properly. I know the doors are basically electrically actuated but the door release handle doesn't seem as heavy feeling as they were before the install. I mean: when opening all the doors now, the handle on the inside of the door seems light when you pull it instead of that heavy feeling from before.

Feels like the way all the cables got re-connected were connected differently so now I feel like the door handles aren't the same....weird! Plus my rear passenger window did not want to auto roll up or down and kept on NOT wanting to rolling back up but we cycled it up and down a few times and reset the car until it fixed itself. Has anyone who's done this install experienced anything weird? Just curious. Everything in my car functions the way it suppose to I'm just stating my experience. Thats all!
I have yet to install my kit so I can’t say one way or another. I do recall another post mentioning that the Tesla door clips are for one time use. So all clips should be replaced when opening up the door panel. The poster said he noticed his door panels being loose after an install.
 
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I have yet to install my kit so I can’t say one way or another. I do recall another post mentioning that the Tesla door clips are for one time use. So all clips should be replaced when opening up the door panel. The poster said he noticed his door panels being loose after an install.
Mine have had no issues since installing the door speakers about 6 months ago??
 
I bought the HDS2.1 8", Dual 2 Ohm

Was going to measure the stock impedance and then decide on series or parallel.

Hoping for this weekend. Weather was in the 20’s and I didn’t feel like freezing my fingers last weekend.
 
I have yet to install my kit so I can’t say one way or another. I do recall another post mentioning that the Tesla door clips are for one time use. So all clips should be replaced when opening up the door panel. The poster said he noticed his door panels being loose after an install.

I'm gonna re-read all the post because the door clips have nothing to do with the door operation in terms of how the release handle feels. To re-cap I mentioned that I notice the release handle feels less solid when you pull it to open the door from the inside of the car. The outside operation works as it should. I dunno if its just me, probably is but the handle just doesn't seem solid and I can't see why the clips that hold the inner door cover affecting this! I could be wrong though, thanks for the reminder.
 
Mine have had no issues since installing the door speakers about 6 months ago??

I have a different ICE car i use as a daily driver and maybe it's me but I have notice that release handle just doesn't seem that solid when you open the door from the inside. again probably just me. I love the overall product and don't regret a thing. I just need my own system tuned a bit more to my liking but I can live with where its at. I may take a trip up to there shop to get them to tune it more for me.
 
Just finished installing the BA Design 4 door speaker, amp and sub. Agree that the sub install was a bit intense but I do enjoy the sound improvement from the standard audio. Huge! Only hiccup is trying to get it to balance. Sees like I have to tweak depending on the type of music. Anyone else who has installed the AMP/sub had this issue? Any recommended AMP/EQ settings that accommodate all types of music? I also installed the punch/gain control dial near the driver seat.

Also curious about the balance. Have you gotten your vehicles system tuned to work for all types of music? I am happy with my system but because I had my car set with all the settings turned up on the default audio setting screen not i noticed for some songs it doesn't seem to be hitting right. I think I need to bring it to there shop and have them play around with it until I get it to my liking. also I may need some sound deading behind the sub in the back. Any thoughts?
 
I have a different ICE car i use as a daily driver and maybe it's me but I have notice that release handle just doesn't seem that solid when you open the door from the inside. again probably just me. I love the overall product and don't regret a thing. I just need my own system tuned a bit more to my liking but I can live with where its at. I may take a trip up to there shop to get them to tune it more for me.

There should be a bolt directly behind the handle. If it was forgotten or vibrated loose, I could see a problem. Compared to other cars that rely on only the clips, I was pleased that Tesla put a metal bolt there to carry the force. Worn or broken plastic clips might lead to a door rattle.
 
Got the stock subwoofer out tonight and measured it. It is labeled as 200mm subwoofer, 1 ohm. Here's a graph of the stock UHFS sub and the soundqubed sub wired in parallel. The impedance curves are almost identical. The stock sub is the lower graph.

At 20 Hz, the stock sub is 1.6 ohm, the soundqubed is 2.2 ohm
At 50 Hz (they both have the same resonance), stock is 7.8 ohm and the soundqubed is 11 ohm

Tesla UHFS(blue) and Soundqubed (green) 8-inch subwoofer drivers.JPG
 
I have yet to install my kit so I can’t say one way or another. I do recall another post mentioning that the Tesla door clips are for one time use. So all clips should be replaced when opening up the door panel. The poster said he noticed his door panels being loose after an install.

No issues with the clips or a loose door panel on mine. If you use the correct tools to remove the door panel then the clips should be just fine. Take your time and don't forget to first remove all the screws and roll down the window first, I also powered down the car from the MCU to prevent any door chimes.

Trim And Molding Tool Set 5 Pc
 
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Got the stock subwoofer out tonight and measured it. It is labeled as 200mm subwoofer, 1 ohm. Here's a graph of the stock UHFS sub and the soundqubed sub wired in parallel. The impedance curves are almost identical. The stock sub is the lower graph.

At 20 Hz, the stock sub is 1.6 ohm, the soundqubed is 2.2 ohm
At 50 Hz (they both have the same resonance), stock is 7.8 ohm and the soundqubed is 11 ohm

View attachment 361076

Not familiar with how to interpret the curves. Does this mean no improvement over stock? My sub is still lost with Fedex and just trying to decide if I should cancel and try to get a refund.
 
Electrically, very similar. The soundqubed is higher impedance across the spectrum, so will use less power (meaning it will be quieter if all else is equivalent). Could it be more efficient? Conceivably, but I suspect both are heavily optimized for power efficiency. Given they are both 8-inch subs, hard to see how there could be much of a difference.

I did install it and hear no difference, but the subwoofer community believes you need to let them “wear in” to get the best response. Also makes for a convenient answer when the customer can’t hear a difference...
 
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