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Anyone try B.A Design works speakers/sub upgrades?

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No. Looks like they updated it after I called attention to it
I am thinking of having the BA Design’s complete set, speakers, subwoofer and amp in my 2014 S (standard system) installed. Has anyone done this through a car stereo installation shop near Irvine, and if so, any information about the location and the rough installation cost would much appreciated.
Thanks!
 
I just ordered the B.A. Designworks ultimate kit to upgrade the standard (non-UHFS) audio system in my Model S 75D
  • $995
  • 4 door speakers
  • Rockford Fosgate P1 Punch 10" sub
  • Rockford Fosgate r500x1d amp
  • Wiring/install kit
I tried the Light Harmonic S4D door speakers and they were a definite improvement, but not $1k worth better than the standard audio, especially without a sub being included. For the same price, getting the "same" speakers plus sub is a no-brainer.

I also added some Armaflex 1/2" pipe foam (6' piece from Home Depot for $6) in the front doors around the speaker and in the port holes on front and rear doors as described in this post and it did make a small improvement to the stock speakers.

I will update once I install and try out the new kit. Hoping this is the ultimate way to go vs the $2500 UHFS upgrade (now bundled with the premium package for much more).

It has been awhile since I installed this system (June 2018) in my Model S myself.

INSTALL
It did take a day of work to get all the wiring run. The most difficult part was running the power cable through the firewall to connect to the 12V batter in the frunk. I ended up finding a hole far back up under the driver footwell that had a plastic cap inserted into it. I simply removed this cap and used a wire fish from the frunk side to pull the power cable through. Removal of the door sill pieces and trunk carpet to complete the wiring was as simple as the B.A. Designworks instruction video. After that, installing the speakers was easy. I mounted the LC2i controller with zip ties to the metal frame to the left of the steering column after removing the panel cover. Mounting there allowed me to access and tune the LC2i afterwards by only needing to remove the "half round" panel on the side of the dash console that adjoins the drivers door -- no need to remove the panel under the steering wheel again.

TUNING
After tuning the subwoofer appropriately, using the line level controller, it sounds amazing. With the subwoofer disconnected, I ensured I was getting the "max" light to just light up when playing at volume level 9. This guaranteed I was sending the cleanest amplified signal to the subwoofer. After that, it was a means of tuning the amp for the sub to my preference. I did wire in the punch controller in the cubby under the center console screen to be able to turn down the bass if needed, but find myself keeping it at the max setting.

As the rear door speakers have a high pass filter enabled in the main console system, they have 0 bass response. After installing the BA door speakers with the bigger drivers, the mid range coming from the rear was quite strong to my ears. To address this, I simply set the fader "circle" to be over the center arm rest cupholders in the configuration view on the screen, removing some signal from the rear doors.

SOUND COMPARISON
I recently had a loaner Model S with the UHFS and was feeling it lacked the bass that my system had. Only when the bass of a track was highly amplified would the UHFS sub kick in. The UHFS system definitely has stronger high end response than the standard/upgraded BA system, creating a "clearer" sound. Overall, I would say the UHFS, while having sharper highs, isn't as "full" as the upgraded BA system, due to the lack of subwoofer response, while the upgraded BA system has a good overall full sound, but it missing the clarity in the super high frequency notes.

OVERALL
It all comes down to preference of course, but at the time of my order, the UHFS system was still a $2500 upgrade vs the BA system at $1000. Saving the $1500 was completely worth it and I am very happy with the purchase and overall sound of the BA system. Now, the UHFS is standard on Model S orders. Overall, for anyone with the legacy standard system, I would recommend the BA upgrade.
 
I'd be concerned about the relationship between badesignworks and LightHarmonic. LightHarmonic never was able to get me a working amp and stopped responding to all of my attempts to contact them. They took $1450 from me and did not deliver a working system.

From what I can see, the phone number for badesignworks is in the same city as LightHarmonic (Roseville, CA). In looking at the Contact Us / "Meet the Team" page, at least two of the three team members were prominently featured in LightHarmonic's YouTube videos:

badesignworks

Brody, the owner of B.A. Designworks, left LightHarmonic to start his own company. I have been in contact with him about getting contact info for LightHarmonic, as they also failed to return my payment after I returned product to them. Brody and his company have been very open with communication and easy to work with, even taking personal phone calls for installation walkthrough help. I definitely second the recommendation to stay away from LightHarmonic at all costs.
 
I have a Nov 2016 build (AP2.0) MS with standard audio. Anyone have an opinion how much just replacing the 4 door speakers with the BA 4-door speaker package would improve what I've got?

I've read that at some point Tesla upgraded the standard speakers in the MS, but I can't find any info about when they did that if they actually did. (So if there are two types of stock standard speakers out there it makes it hard to rely on reviews because I don't know which I have, lol).

Thanks for any thoughts!
 
I have a Nov 2016 build (AP2.0) MS with standard audio. Anyone have an opinion how much just replacing the 4 door speakers with the BA 4-door speaker package would improve what I've got?

I've read that at some point Tesla upgraded the standard speakers in the MS, but I can't find any info about when they did that if they actually did. (So if there are two types of stock standard speakers out there it makes it hard to rely on reviews because I don't know which I have, lol).

Thanks for any thoughts!
I have a 2014 MS so I guess mine is the 1st generation standard speakers then.
In my opinion, those are probably $5 each, if not less.
We just replaced the 4 speakers and it makes a big difference in SQ.
I recently sold the sub to another person.
 
I have a 2014 MS so I guess mine is the 1st generation standard speakers then.
In my opinion, those are probably $5 each, if not less.
We just replaced the 4 speakers and it makes a big difference in SQ.
I recently sold the sub to another person.
Thanks for the response. I ordered the speaker kit and I am excited to give it a try.

Why did you sell the sub? I only ordered the 4 door speaker package, but, wondering why you sold the sub.
 
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I got the just 4 speakers, had standard audio in mine before. It was an instant difference, a few months ago I did add a sub a mainly because I had one laying around from an old car. (I have posted pictures in other threads of it) The added sub does give it that lower end that the standard sound was missing, but the BA speakers are a improvement over stock in my opinion. To me it was important to keep the sound stage that came with the car, IE not adding additional highs with a 2 or 3 way speaker where it was not designed to be. The BA speakers fit that as they are basically the woofer part of a component system, since you have tweeters in the A pillars.
 
I got the just 4 speakers, had standard audio in mine before. It was an instant difference, a few months ago I did add a sub a mainly because I had one laying around from an old car. (I have posted pictures in other threads of it) The added sub does give it that lower end that the standard sound was missing, but the BA speakers are a improvement over stock in my opinion. To me it was important to keep the sound stage that came with the car, IE not adding additional highs with a 2 or 3 way speaker where it was not designed to be. The BA speakers fit that as they are basically the woofer part of a component system, since you have tweeters in the A pillars.
Thanks
 
I have the BA design speakers for front and rear doors. It adds a lot of mids and bit of bass to the base audio system. I then added a NVX subwoofer to the system and it definitely takes care of the bass. Now I'm looking for a pair of nice tweeters to take care of the highs.
 
I have the BA design speakers for front and rear doors. It adds a lot of mids and bit of bass to the base audio system. I then added a NVX subwoofer to the system and it definitely takes care of the bass. Now I'm looking for a pair of nice tweeters to take care of the highs.
How difficult is doing the sub? Assume you'd need an amp too. I am pretty handy, and I can do most things. But I am sort of afraid to tear into a Tesla. I am also scared to let someone else do that to my Tesla. Lol.

I would have ordered the complete BA system, but I thought standard audio cars could only take the door speakers. (And I wasn't 100 percent sure I wanted to try it.)
 
How difficult is doing the sub? Assume you'd need an amp too. I am pretty handy, and I can do most things. But I am sort of afraid to tear into a Tesla. I am also scared to let someone else do that to my Tesla. Lol.

I would have ordered the complete BA system, but I thought standard audio cars could only take the door speakers. (And I wasn't 100 percent sure I wanted to try it.)

I installed the BA door speakers myself and let the professionals installed the NVX subwoofer kit (it's not hard to find a car audio installer in SF Bay area with experiences on Teslas).The install costs $340. This place have installed at least 10 MS NVX subwoofer kits. I watched the beginning part of the install, the 12V goes through the firewall on the drivers side, the LC2i locates inside the driver kick panel and amplifier is placed under the subwoofer in the trunk. It definitely can be a DIY if you are handy enough...
 
If its your first time and you're all hesitant about breaking anything. I recommend a local shop. If you are handy, it's not too hard. Key is to get a proper rated amp kit and remember your fuses. I have seen way too many docs on the web skipping the fuse at the battery or pulling power from the fuse block and not the battery post.

That being said, plenty of help here on which wires to tap. You will need an LC2i to get the proper levels from radio. I ran everything down the passenger side, since thats where I put my sub. Plus the grommet on my 15 is on that side, I was able to hide the LC2i up behind the glovebox.

You will need to tap the speaker on the drivers side kick panel, as well as the passenger side kick panel. I like the posi-taps, super easy to tap into wires.

Grounds are super easy to find, they are everywhere in the trunk and under the dash.

Make sure if you are going to pull any panels or trim off, get the trim removal tools from harbor freight, they will prevent you from cuts on your hands and protect the panels.

Class D amp for sure, it's the most efficient in its power rating.