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Anyone use this Romex 6/3 cable during install?

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Can confirm. I've ordered from them a couple times, and been satisfied in all cases. It's nice to be able to buy just what I need.
Hey Johnny, I think it was your suggestion on an old thread that gave me the idea. Thank you.
Heh, I don't even remember that, but glad it helped!

In grad school, my lab came up with a rule that you weren't allowed to graduate until you'd heard all our adviser's stories three times. Apparently I have now reached the age my adviser was. Well, consarn it, it's a good piece of advice, and I'm just going to keep saying it!
 
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Hey I had an observation that I thought was interesting on this subject, though I'm not out to trigger anybody - just an observation.

My installation is indeed a Romex 6/3, 60 amp breaker, Tesla V3 charger. After I found this thread, I set the limit on the car to 44 amp, which is 80% of the 55 amps that Romex 6/3 is rated for. Frankly, any difference in charge time between 44 amps and 48 amps has been irrelevant to me.

The observation is that whether this charging system is running 44 amps or running 48 amps as it was before, the 18 foot charging cord supplied by Tesla feels warmer to the touch than the Romex 6/3 does. I've sampled both in several places. Is it not appropriate to take from this observation that the Tesla cord is more of a limiting factor than the house wire? Anyway, I'm not advocating for anything, I just thought it was interesting.

I ended up doing the same thing after reading through this thread. Romex 6/3, 60 amp breaker, Tesla V3 charger now with the car limited to 44 amps. Not too much of a charge time difference (38mph vs 42mph) and I won't have to worry about possible fire hazards!
 
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Yeah, the actual wire should be waaaay below the limit in normal operation. As Rocky_H pointed out somewhere else recently, the rating is based on being inside a wall surrounded with insulation. Also, the maximum allowable temperature when they figure the ampacity is almost certainly 10 or 20 C below the rating of the material, for reasons of conservatism. Also also, the temperature rating is probably the point at which it starts quickly breaking down or outgassing the plasticizer (for some value of "quickly"). But that type of damage continues to happen at lower temperature, just more slowly. So if the wire is going to last 100 years, you need to stay well below the rated temperature.

I'm definitely guessing about that last detail, but that kind of conservatism in general is how you handle requirements that don't have an obvious threshold.
Agreed - the environment around the wire (open air vs in an insulated wall) can make s big difference in how hot the wire and insulation gets and all of these regulations have an Intentional fudge factor. You never want to have something set up to run at its limits because there are always other variables you can’t control or haven’t accounted for that may make things worse.

Just as an example, say the vinyl used on one batch of romex was a bit thinner, got abraded during installation or starts melting 10º lower than it’s supposed to. If you were already running close to the limit suddenly you’re over and you have a potential disaster.

The NEC’s purpose is to ensure safety and virtually everything in it is there because accidents have happened in the past or people with a lot more experience and knowledge than us decided it was the best way to do an installation.
 
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I read that the leviton (readily available at homedepot) cannot withstand regular charge for more a couple of months.
Well, that is definitely exaggerating it. I've still been using my Leviton 14-50 outlet for over 7 years. I didn't know about this at the time or would have gotten one of the better outlets.

The Leviton ones are definitely made cheaper, but if installed well and properly, they can do a pretty decent job. The main thing is because of how badly/cheaply the lugs are made, it's much more likely to not get the wires in properly and tightened effectively, so there's more chance of a bad install. The Hubbel, Cooper, and Bryant have better lugs that hold the wires more effectively and I think all use hex wrench screws so they can be tightened better.

Also, I have been keeping my charging setup limited at 31A instead of using the full 40A that would be allowed, so that is less heat stress on the connections and less on my old charging cable.
 
The 14-50 receptacle from Bryant is very similar to the Hubbell but cost less at about $40. If you do decide to get a Hubbell or the Bryant, you have to get the Hubbell cover since the hole size in the Leviton cover is a bit too small.

Zoro is one place to get these. Shipping is $5 (free if a $75 + order).


www.zoro.com

Bryant 9450FR $34.33 Receptacle, 50 A Amps, 125/250V AC, Flush Mount, Single Outlet, 14-50R, Black | Zoro.com

Order Bryant Receptacle, 50 A Amps, 125/250V AC, Flush Mount, Single Outlet, 14-50R, Black, 9450FR at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com
www.zoro.com
www.zoro.com

Hubbell Wiring Device-Kellems SS701 $8.78 2.48" Opening Wall Plates and Box Cover, Number of Gangs: 2 Stainless Steel, Brushed Finish, Silver | Zoro.com

Order Hubbell Wiring Device-Kellems 2.48" Opening Wall Plates and Box Cover, Number of Gangs: 2 Stainless Steel, Brushed Finish, Silver, SS701 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com
www.zoro.com
 
So now I have a shopping list from Zoro :)
- Bryant 9450FR
- Hubbell Wall Plate
- 4S electrical box (anything atleast 2-1/8" D): Raco 231 $1.78 Electrical Box, Square, 30.3 cu. in., Standards: UL | Zoro.com

Question I wanted to clarify is that all of these can be used for surface mount right. Is there any different in the electrical box to be used for surface mount vs in wall mount.
 
The 14-50 receptacle from Bryant is very similar to the Hubbell but cost less at about $40. If you do decide to get a Hubbell or the Bryant, you have to get the Hubbell cover since the hole size in the Leviton cover is a bit too small.

Zoro is one place to get these. Shipping is $5 (free if a $75 + order).
I'm curious as to whether there's any difference at all between the Hubbell and the Bryant, now that they're the same company. It's entirely possible that that extra $40 is paying only for the Hubbell name. Which, that's a lot of money just for the molded brand name.

Now if it were "Hubble"... Man, that thing is still going after 31 years!
 
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This looks pretty good, trying to find literature about how it stands up to ev loads. Based on reviews and comments its all about kitchen range.
That’s what most will likely use it for. All I know is I opened it up and it’s pretty solid inside…no monkey business and the attachments are pretty tight and clean. The clamping force on the plug to the EVSE also seem pretty sturdy. The electrician I hired to fish the cable up into the load center inspected it all and he seemed pretty good with it (heck, he asked why I didn’t just finish the whole job before I called him! LOL). I did the whole install from the outlet to the workbox right below the load center…just didn’t want to fish the cable up from there (I hate fishing cable!)
 
Correct me if i am wrong but the ROmex wires cannot be run in conduits? Apparently one must assume your conduits are filled with water at all times so you need something that is wet rated.

You can run Romex in conduit but even if it's in conduit it can't be in a wet location, which are usually the kinds of locations that people would want to put it in conduit. Garage or outside are considered wet for these purposes. And running Romex in conduit is more of a pain than individual wires, so people don't generally do it. But they might run Romex in a short length of conduit if needed.

If you want Romex outside or in wet location you need to use UF-B cable, which looks like Romex but has a (I think) PVC jacket that is waterproof.
 
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Question I wanted to clarify is that all of these can be used for surface mount right. Is there any different in the electrical box to be used for surface mount vs in wall mount.

Surface mounted that box myself this past week. 3/4 EMT feeding the box from a new sub-panel in the garage. Only thing on the sub-panel but this gives me the option to add a second charger in the future without having to run the 60 ft. back through the garage and into the basement.