Anyone use this Romex 6/3 cable during install?

[Cosmacelf]

My J1772 thoughts were mainly focused on unexpected needs. Things like a non-Tesla BEV rental, a BEV visitor, or the recent rumors Tesla might switch to CCS. Assuming I keep my first Tesla as long as I plan, replacing the Wall Connector when I get the next car shouldn't happen soon or be a big issue.

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Lectron-Tesla-Charger-J1772-Adapter/dp/B07V7V2QT8

Allows you to use a Tesla destination charger (which is what a Wall Connector is) in any J1772 vehicle.

 

[denverag03]

No, that's not how the current ratings work. The amp ratings in the ampacity tables are for the circuit rating. So if you want a 60A circuit, you need to use a gauge that says it can support at least 60A. That wire only goes to 55A, so you can't use it for a 60A rated circuit.

Circuit ratings are normally for intermittent temporary use up to their full ratings. So things like ovens and clothes dryers have heating elements that cycle on and off for several minutes at a time. The wires get time to cool down, so they can run at full 100% capacity for short bursts. But electric code requires that for permanent loads (several hours), they can only run at 80% of the circuit's rated capacity. So that's where the 48A for many continuous hours on a 60A circuit comes in.

But you don't get to evaluate whether you think your charging is going to be short term or long term. Code was modified a few years ago to just define all EV charging as permanent loads.

Just to add to the confusion here, I ran 6 AWG NM-B for my Wall Charger. That said, there is no 55 amp breaker available for my box. I'm 99% sure there is NEC rule (430.52 maybe?) somewhere that says you CAN upsize your breaker to the closest available (60 amps in my case). Initially I thought I could magically run my wall connector at 48 amps.

What I then discovered was the rule does NOT permit you to upsize your load as well. The maximum EV charge load you can place on the wire (44 amps if the wire is 6AWG NMB) remains the same. Since 44 amps is not an available setting on the Wall Connector, I had to set mine to 40 amps to 'comply'.

 

[Rocky_H]

Just to add to the confusion here, I ran 6 AWG NM-B for my Wall Charger. That said, there is no 55 amp breaker available for my box. I'm 99% sure there is NEC rule (430.52 maybe?) somewhere that says you CAN upsize your breaker to the closest available (60 amps in my case). Initially I thought I could magically run my wall connector at 48 amps.

What I then discovered was the rule does NOT permit you to upsize your load as well. The maximum EV charge load you can place on the wire (44 amps if the wire is 6AWG NMB) remains the same. Since 44 amps is not an available setting on the Wall Connector, I had to set mine to 40 amps to 'comply'.

Thank you for fully understanding and thinking that through. That "round up" provision is such a pain in the ass because people have heard of it and misuse it constantly. This has been covered in a lot of threads, but people think that if you can do that round up on the breaker that some magic happens, and all of a sudden, the entire circuit, from end to end is now rated at that level. It isn't. As you noticed, the wire still has the limitation.

 

[Corndart]

Just to add to the confusion here, I ran 6 AWG NM-B for my Wall Charger. That said, there is no 55 amp breaker available for my box. I'm 99% sure there is NEC rule (430.52 maybe?) somewhere that says you CAN upsize your breaker to the closest available (60 amps in my case). Initially I thought I could magically run my wall connector at 48 amps.

What I then discovered was the rule does NOT permit you to upsize your load as well. The maximum EV charge load you can place on the wire (44 amps if the wire is 6AWG NMB) remains the same. Since 44 amps is not an available setting on the Wall Connector, I had to set mine to 40 amps to 'comply'.

Good info but why not just run a 50a breaker? How about the next homeowner, who may over load the circuit after seeing a 60a breaker in the panel but not realizing the wiring is 6 gauge / 60c rated? Just trying to figure out why anyone would leave anything to chance, when a $10-20 breaker idiot proofs it.

 

[denverag03]

Good info but why not just run a 50a breaker? How about the next homeowner, who may over load the circuit after seeing a 60a breaker in the panel but not realizing the wiring is 6 gauge / 60c rated? Just trying to figure out why anyone would leave anything to chance, when a $10-20 breaker idiot proofs it.

That may be a viable option. I haven't gone back to change that yet. I just put a label on the disconnect I installed by my wall connector explaining the limit and why. I guess the only reason not to downgrade to 50, if available, would be if the breaker doesn't like sustained load (have no idea if this is true), but even so, 80% of a 50amp breaker would be 40amps, my exact load.

Usually the NEC seems to say the breaker should always match the wire, not sure what the right answer would be according to the letter of the law. Maybe Rocky_H knows?

BTW, the city inspector caught none of this. I did my own research when the cable felt warm. I also had the previous gen 3 wall connector that overheated.

 

[Rocky_H]

Good info but why not just run a 50a breaker? How about the next homeowner, who may over load the circuit after seeing a 60a breaker in the panel but not realizing the wiring is 6 gauge / 60c rated? Just trying to figure out why anyone would leave anything to chance, when a $10-20 breaker idiot proofs it.

Oh. From my reading of it, I thought @denverag03 's commentary about the round-up thing was just a thought exercise. I didn't think he had actually USED a 60A breaker. If you did, then yeah, don't mess with that. Put in a 50A, like it should be.

 

[denverag03]

Oh. From my reading of it, I thought @denverag03 's commentary about the round-up thing was just a thought exercise. I didn't think he had actually USED a 60A breaker. If you did, then yeah, don't mess with that. Put in a 50A, like it should be.

That probably is the best move. Now technically if someone wanted to use a 55amp (peak only) device on this circuit, a 60 amp breaker would be valid and appropriate. It's probably best though to downgrade the breaker and make the future person explicitly upgrade the breaker than the current situation. I've been looking for another house project to do. I guess I found one.

 

[denverag03]

This sure doesn't make it easy to get that 50 amp breaker (HD and Lowes are the same) ! I'm hesitant to buy a critical piece of gear from a fly by night Amazon seller too.

 

[kayak1]

This sure doesn't make it easy to get that 50 amp breaker (HD and Lowes are the same) ! I'm hesitant to buy a critical piece of gear from a fly by night Amazon seller too.

View attachment 749323

I am sure that you can get a great deal on Federal Pacific Breakers that are "compatible" LOL.

Breakers for a known good source would be best, have you tried your local electric supply house? They might charge you more not being in the trade, but at least it will be from a known source.

 

[B_E_V]

This sure doesn't make it easy to get that 50 amp breaker (HD and Lowes are the same) ! I'm hesitant to buy a critical piece of gear from a fly by night Amazon seller too.

I saw something similar for my Eaton 60 amp, then found my nearest HomeDepot had 2 in stock and grabbed one. It is a long shot, but check online searching individual stores within driving range. For example right now Home Depot "North Nashua #3484," in zipcode 03063 currently shows 13 of the Eaton BR 50 amp breakers in stock for store pickup.

I agree about disreputable sellers. I purchased a "cheater" used 240 breaker for a Heat Pump compressor. Saved at least $10 on the purchase. Then mice chewed some wires, and only one side of the breaker tripped. That destroyed the compressor. Thousands later. I wasn't so happy about saving $10.

Good Luck.

 

[ELETRO]

6/3 romex 60breaker wall connector

 

[Corndart]

6/3 romex 60breaker wall connector

Here we go again....

 

[EVer Hopeful]

6/3 romex 60breaker wall connector

Did you run two sets or 6/3?

 

[ELETRO]

Did you run two sets or 6/3?

6/3 romex i didn't use the solid copper. ran about 8ft behind the dry wall

 

[Budshark]

6/3 romex i didn't use the solid copper. ran about 8ft behind the dry wall

6/3 is under rated for 60amps. You shouldn’t have done that and no one reading this should use your gamble as a guide.

 

[ELETRO]

6/3 is under rated for 60amps. You shouldn’t have done that and no one reading this should use your gamble as a guide.

for guidance i do (highly recommend to get 4/3 or gauge 4 wire). in my case i couldn't get one from local thats just my setup for now

 

[69KWH]

6/3 is under rated for 60amps. You shouldn’t have done that and no one reading this should use your gamble as a guide.

I've had this setup for 6 months now and haven't had any issues. I set the car to 44A since the wire spec is 55A. If a certified electrician approves it, it's on them if something happens in the future.

 

[B_E_V]

I've had this setup for 6 months now and haven't had any issues. I set the car to 44A since the wire spec is 55A. If a certified electrician approves it, it's on them if something happens in the future.

Unless the opposing attorney shows that you had KNOWLEDGE of the code violation. For now, most Tesla owners are at least perceived as having deeper pockets and better liability insurance than most electricians.

 

[denverag03]

Plus even if an electrician is liable, a fire isn’t fun for anyone.

 

[denverag03]

50 amp downsize complete. I wish I had a torque screw driver extension though that could easily reach the square breaker screw without hitting the plastic. Eaton breakers don’t make it easy. I nearly strip the screw out every time