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Anyone using a QuickJack

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I love mine, been using it for years. I'm curious of a couple things though...are the Tesla branded jackpads necessary when the QJ already uses rubber pads anyways?

Toolly Jack Pad Jack Lift Pad Compatible with Tesla Model 3/ Model Y/Model S/Model X, 4-pcs Set https://a.co/d/6UzM3Rh

Also, how far apart are the jack points on an X? I can lift my X5M but it only sits on about half the rubber pad even with the 7000EXT, which is the longest QJ for sale at the time.
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Very good point!! I dont think it needs the Tesla style jack pads as long as you lift it the same locations the jack pads use. Personal preference I guess. Use the rubber pads just like you would any other car. Definitely more than one way to do it as long as its safe.

I don't know the measurements of the X, sorry. I lift my 3 using the quickjacks sideways and it works great. I need to get more pics next time...

Btw m5james, hello neighbor!! It looks like you quite experienced with your quickjacks!
 
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I was thinking the Tesla jack pads would be good for using a floor jack but could introduce an odd point of additional flex when using the QJ.

Funny story...took my QJ over to a buddies house to help do some exhaust work on his X3M, low and behold his jack points were further apart than my X5M. I reloaded it into my X5M, got all the way home and then remembered doing it sideways is an option...oops!!

You in Marysville as well? Yeah, I love the thing!! I've got a buddy in Snohomish who's got a MaxJax that I used, it's cool in different ways but useless in others. It's "portable" but not really unless you put anchor points everywhere you wanna use it...which is easier said than done since the concrete needs to be a certain PSI and thickness. It goes up like 4-5' but it's only convenient if you have a rolling chair setup or taking a knee vs QJ I've done everything from basic maintenance to trans and engine swaps...all while conveniently laying on a creeper. They're definitely not worth the price since they're only a few hundred away from a true dual post...just my .02.
 

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Hola, neighbor!

I saw the wood post, good idea! Contrary to the naysayers and armchair mechanics, apparently I'll be the first ever rolling around in an X P100D on 21" Y Uberturbines once the adapters arrive. They're not some amazing wheels necessarily but they look WAY better than the 20's and if got these 21's w/ only 1K on them for $500 so win win on the wild chance they don't work and if can resell them if needed.
 

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This will solve the problem of avoiding dragging the QJ on the ground, eschewing the eccentric weight distribution with traditional casters, and avoid resting the car's weight on the casters with some of the aftermarket wheel kits. Make sure to get the carbon steel variety of both the 1" and 5/8" ball transfer bearings for longevity.
 
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Forget the Loctite 545, that one is non-bonding for fine threads only, the beast below should do a stellar job.

LOCTITE® 569 is a brown methacrylate ester acrylic liquid thread sealant designed for the locking and sealing of metal pipes and fittings. The product cures to prevent loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Approved by the Australian Gas Association Certificate number 3375 Class III rated working pressure 2000 KPa, working temperature -14 °F to +302 °F(-10 °C to +150 °C).

  • High strength
  • Prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration
 
Right, weight aside I was wondering if the length of the 7000TLX can match up to the jack points of the MY easily or near the limits.
ah sorry miss understood so i have the base 7000TL and then i bought the extended length adapters to use on SUV, the normal 7000TL is long enough and has a half of puck support on each rubber block, as above someone used wood which makes lining up less of a pain but the rubber block sitting on exactly half the jack puck insert is totally fine for me and my liking. with the extension i have i could use that then put wood inside and let that jack up directly to the frame like some do above but i cannot use the extension and the puck inside as its too tall then to slide under. the 6000ELX was not available and seems like would be a easier use for teslas directly
 
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6000ELX ready to get hydraulic fluid.

ROLLER MOD DYI

NOTE: these will work with M3 LR 140mm clearance, but not with Model S pre-air suspension, air MS with jack mode 177mm should be good. Legacy MS and possibly M3P would need smaller rollers, alas I will have one more jack seasonal tire change before I get rid of the MS later this year.

Directions: PUMP SIDE is where the hoses point.
FAR SIDE is fartherst from pump and hoses.

1. Rollers, double ball bearing, Amazon Holkie 2", two sets of 4. Cover bottom in 3M tape, use hobby knife to clear openings, then ziptie at pump side near the end to lower height.
2. 3M double sided heavy duty automotive tape with red vinyl covers.
3. Lowe's outdoor zipties, the very largest for far side, next size pump side.
4. Rubbing alcohol.
5 1/2" pine board 120x150mm, mount one roller aligned with long axis, use double washers, attach with 3M tape, then ziptie.
6. High density foam tape 1/8x1" over all three tracks bottoms that come in contact with concrete when lifting car.

Use the wood planks to flip the tracks.
Use two sturdy upside down plastic buckets to mount when working
The BS shown on the cover with a guy hauling both tracks with a smile is a gimmick, these are not sissies, 6'4" Balkans gorilla here and needed all
I had to just flip one track. Be safe, wear steel toed boots, leather gloves and avoid getting fingers pinched (it hurts like a mofo, esp as scissors open
a bit when lifting, then close on finger, you could smash a finger easily).

OK 24h for hydraulic sealant curing are up, getting to load 'er up with hydraulic and test, here is some porn:
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Breather valve model, always open before using, close when storing, IMHO better than the other kind, where oil would migrate out during storage.
AW-32 oil, higher temperature range (Autozone). Don't forget the 5s DN button before disconnect or system will remain pressurized locking the quick disconnects shut, or you'll be playing with the bicycle pump and oil rag again:)
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Notice the 45deg angle, this will prevent hose from pointing downward when up:
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Just one of the tapes, notice the hard rubber feet i put under it to elevate the center:
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The supplied thread sealant seemed more viscous that the Loctite 659, I used it, no leaks after 24h curing.
Don't worry if it remains soft on the outside, it activates on contact with metal on the threads.

Little scare during hydraulic bleeding as the jacks won't go down, put my winter wheel/tires on each
end, worked like a charm. One thing I did not do was leave valve open while pushing UP, I just repeated
the 2s UP followed by bleeding until no air hissed out after the 4th run. And used two large blocks to lift
because of the added height of the wheel.

QJ OEM wall hangers will need a mounting plate to compensate for the wheel sticking out against the wall, learned
it the hard way, OMG these things are heavy.

Tired but happy after two days of running after kids, chores, and climate change mowing (storms nonstop, forecast
changes every day).
 
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OK, the rollers had to go, put 14"x2.5" two poplar board to clear the battery pack with my jack pads.
Brand spanking new M3 getting ready to receive front partial PPF, blacked out badges, TESLA rear lettering
and a spoiler. What a relief to work with car on these. Notice the jack stands, they went under the end at the
pump end in case the build in stops fail. I detached the long hoses after I pushed DOWN for 5s with jacks locked
for easy obstacle free work, failure to do so would have made reattaching them impossible due to internal hydraulic
pressure.


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The boards work great for clearance with the 3 and the side skirts.
I didn't have luck with rollers either. But I did install a couple of cheap handles that really help moving them alor. And some tri-roller dollys that I use to roll them around until its about halfway under the car, then remove them and use the handles to position them under the car. Cheap handles were a few bucks and the tri rollers were about 20 bucks online for a set of 4.
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Great idea on the handles.

I am tempted to try my luck with UHMW slider strips, these xxxxers are heavy to haul
for a 50+ pen pusher's rotator cuffs. From my favorite espresso machine parts bin:

 
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The boards work great for clearance with the 3 and the side skirts.
I didn't have luck with rollers either. But I did install a couple of cheap handles that really help moving them alor. And some tri-roller dollys that I use to roll them around until its about halfway under the car, then remove them and use the handles to position them under the car. Cheap handles were a few bucks and the tri rollers were about 20 bucks online for a set of 4.


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I got them, but they get stuck and bent by the frames. However did woderful service when swapping the mower deck for the snow blade on Kubota G2460G.

New idea:
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Random post because someone IM'd me but here's how I'm hanging my jacks and rolling around the battery & pump. Hook from Wal-Mart, cut off the end leaving just enough that it won't slide off but doesn't require lifting them completely off the ground either and then a Harbor Freight dolly...both combined are less than $20.
 

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