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Anyone want to help modify a Radio Flyer Model S?

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I'm gonna use this thread for some troubleshooting.

There's a higher pitch screeching noise coming from the right rear wheel/motor only during motor acceleration. I tried spinning the wheel but the sound wasn't there. It doesn't happen all the time either. I'm wondering if something to stuck in there.

Are there areas I need to look at? Lubricate? Shake out? I saw how to take the motors out for replacement but I worry the sound is coming from the motor/gearbox assembly itself.
 
I ended up taking the gears apart and the noise was from the motor itself. parts.radioflyer.com had the motors at $16 each so I went ahead and replaced both.

I also have a broken speaker so there is no horn or usable aux. Oh well it's what I get for buying a used toy from Craigslist.
 
Help me to understand as I transplanted my Tesla into a Kettler peddle car... It won't run I have confirmed that I have power to the peddle, but for some reason depressing the accelerator is not kicking voltage our on the other side. I recall that this car ran just fine before I cut it up. I saw earlier in the thread that there is a "message" that is carried on a single black wire from the battery to the Peddle. Do I need the Dash intact or do I just need the forward/backward switch and peddle? My kids can't wait to get back on the road.
 
The go peddle presses on what looks like a power tool switch. That switch has an embedded controller chip that talks to a matching chip in the battery. I haven’t seen anything posted on what data they exchange.
 
The go peddle presses on what looks like a power tool switch. That switch has an embedded controller chip that talks to a matching chip in the battery. I haven’t seen anything posted on what data they exchange.

So last night I got everything set up and working... Yes, there is a signal validation from the battery, but the validation circuit is in the charger port that is located in the rear valance behind one of the tail lights. I snipped it off since I wasn't worried about in car charging. Once I reconnected the charging port, the signal was restored.

Someone had mentioned that the motors were out of polarity so pushing forward on the direction switched caused the car to go backward and when the reverse was selected the car would go forward. This is fixed by the 3 position switch next to the variable throttle switch. It needs to be in position 1 or position 3 as position 2 is similar to an off selector.
 
So last night I got everything set up and working... Yes, there is a signal validation from the battery, but the validation circuit is in the charger port that is located in the rear valance behind one of the tail lights. I snipped it off since I wasn't worried about in car charging. Once I reconnected the charging port, the signal was restored.

Someone had mentioned that the motors were out of polarity so pushing forward on the direction switched caused the car to go backward and when the reverse was selected the car would go forward. This is fixed by the 3 position switch next to the variable throttle switch. It needs to be in position 1 or position 3 as position 2 is similar to an off selector.
The motors are unidirectional so can also just flip the motors around between the two for the forward/back issue right?
 
Hopefully you guys can help me on a problem I have with my Radio Flyer Tesla. I got it used and trying to fix it for my son. The problem is on speed 1, 2 wheels work on the forward position and 1 wheel work on reverse position. Speed 2, no wheel works when on forward and 1 wheel works in reverse. I watched all of the troubleshooting videos they have. I’ve reached out to Radio Flyer on 2 occasions with 2 different answer with no solution. One said its the speed rocker switch and want $300 for the switch and the body frame cause they don't sell only the switch. Hard no, but also the switch problem kind of doesn't make sense to me. In sleep mode, switch on speed 2, the battery lights up when the pedal is press. Wires from the speed switch to the motors is fine. Checked with multi-meter. Another rep said its the motors. I saw they sell the motors on the site so I bought them. Same problem, so not the motors. Everything else is fine, lights, horn, etc. If anyone has any guidance. Thank you.
 
did you look at the switch that is built into the accelerator peddle? It looks like a cordless drill switch - and even still has its lever for forward/reverse - your description makes me wonder if that's not moving around or flipped the wrong way. If you have deoxit cleaner for electronics - I would spray that into both switches (hi/lo and accelerator) just in case one of the contacts has gotten fouled up. Someone in the postings above was looking for motors - you might be able to unload them...
 
did you look at the switch that is built into the accelerator peddle? It looks like a cordless drill switch - and even still has its lever for forward/reverse - your description makes me wonder if that's not moving around or flipped the wrong way. If you have deoxit cleaner for electronics - I would spray that into both switches (hi/lo and accelerator) just in case one of the contacts has gotten fouled up. Someone in the postings above was looking for motors - you might be able to unload them...
I did take a look at the accelerator. Tested at all 3 lever positions. Speed 2, forward still did nothing at all 3. Speed 1, one of the position made forward go backwards. I’ll give the electronic cleaner a try. Thank you.
 
Just checked mine. Both rear wheels go in forward and both wheels go in reverse in both speed ranges.
Thank you. So sprayed the peddle/trigger with Deoxit didnt work. A fair shot. Upon closer inspection of the trigger. I removed heatsink, realized theres a transistor behind it. Maybe that went bad. Not feeding all its power to the motors sort of speak. I'll talk to Radio Flyer to see if they sell the peddle assembly. Can't think of it being any else.
 
I picked up another red model S 910 today for cheap. It needs a lot of replacement parts. Motors grinding like my old one. The seller just wanted to get rid of it so I bought it for $50.

Headlights do not work but horn does. Any idea how I can check what's going on?

I am gonna replace the motors. The wheels are bald but my kids don't mind for now. I am still hunting for those sl777 rims someone posted... No luck.