AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition BBK

[MasterC17]

Oh I plan on tracking more than once a year for sure, I just also use the car as my daily driver =)

I already am installing MCS coilovers + MPP front control arms + SPL rear links + Eibach sways. Running upgraded fluid but just RB XT910 for now (since mostly do autocross the moment)

just planning for what's the best option once I do more road course.

I have to ask - do you have any road course experience? Not trying to sound dismissive, but I would get a few track days under your belt before spending so much $ on mods beyond the necessity's. The money is better spent on more track days and more experience (if you can get the time to do it) which is going to make you a much faster and more consistent driver than any mods. Prior to buying the Model 3 I had 56 track days, and even then I should probably be spending more time and money actually driving than modifying the car

 

[Mash]

Err, I wouldn't really say that. Again, I ran pads, fluid, and rotors and my brakes went bye-bye in T1 at VIR after 2 hard laps. That's running 200tw tires. If you moved to an R-Comp or a Slick you would have a bad time on stock calipers.

On a track, for sure. I was talking about street use. I was also surprised how fast I killed tires, brake fluid and pads. But without cool down laps or radical ducting (or water cooling) none of those kits going to survive. Brands won't matter if system is beyond critical temps.

With enough heat in calipers they change structure of aluminum and it would be a time for a new kit.

 

[MasterC17]

On a track, for sure. I was talking about street use. I was also surprised how fast I killed tires, brake fluid and pads. But without cool down laps or radical ducting (or water cooling) none of those kits going to survive. Brands won't matter if system is beyond critical temps.

With enough heat in calipers they change structure of aluminum and it would be a time for a new kit.

Since adding camber I am getting good tire life. A set should last 15 days or so. When I was running the Model S calipers pads lasted about the same. I expect the pads on the AP kit should last even a bit longer.

 

[Lunares]

I have to ask - do you have any road course experience? Not trying to sound dismissive, but I would get a few track days under your belt before spending so much $ on mods beyond the necessity's. The money is better spent on more track days and more experience (if you can get the time to do it) which is going to make you a much faster and more consistent driver than any mods. Prior to buying the Model 3 I had 56 track days, and even then I should probably be spending more time and money actually driving than modifying the car

Mostly autox experience as opposed to road course (hence why I focused on suspension upgrades first). Was burning through tires super quickly, wanted to add camber and coils followed from there. Definitely got a bit carried away!

I won't need brake upgrades for a while but it's good to learn now! I wouldn't be putting in these until another year or two. The goal is to get up to 4-7 track days a year.

 

[beastmode13]

Thoughts on how they will hold up to rust? No dust boots doesn't bother me, but I wonder how much maintenance would be required for someone who drives 12k miles a year and through some level of rain.

Wonder how the pads would hold up to that level of normal driving with AKBS or if I should just resign myself to getting the road and track kit.

Other than weight, did you see any major disadvantage to the road and track vs competition?

Caliper isn't going to rust at all. Rust on iron rotors are normal, it happens to every rotor. Dust boots are overrated, I had Wilwood calipers without dust boot for 4yrs in Seattle without any problems. According to Essex/AP Racing, AKBS doesn't cause notable more wear on pad or rotor.

Street and Track kit have a bigger rotor compare to the Competition kit.

I would suggest ping @RedwoodMotors about your questions.

 

[Mash]

I'm starting to think that going for larger rotor is not very smart for me. It looks like in the land of slicks where i will inevitably go next season almost nothing available above 18 inch tires. So I have to change calipers back to 18 inch fitting ones. Other than that I like 19 inch on the street.

How is 9660 working for you? Did anyone tried higher bite pads like xp20 or ds3.11? 9660 is 10% lower piston pressure than stock...

 

[MasterC17]

I'm starting to think that going for larger rotor is not very smart for me. It looks like in the land of slicks where i will inevitably go next season almost nothing available above 18 inch tires. So I have to change calipers back to 18 inch fitting ones. Other than that I like 19 inch on the street.

How is 9660 working for you? Did anyone tried higher bite pads like xp20 or ds3.11? 9660 is 10% lower piston pressure than stock...

I'm using the DS3.11, they actually have too much bite for 200TW tires so I'll be switching to Raybestos ST-45 next. It's manageable but it's very easy to get into ABS with them.

The feel and consistency of this kit is incredible though, the pedal is super direct, smooth, and predictable.

 

[Mash]

I'm using the DS3.11, they actually have too much bite for 200TW tires so I'll be switching to Raybestos ST-45 next. It's manageable but it's very easy to get into ABS with them.

The feel and consistency of this kit is incredible though, the pedal is super direct, smooth, and predictable.

Thanks
Looks like st45 is quite rotor aggressive http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/raybestos-brake-pad-compounds/raybestos-friction-charts.pdf

It also looks like rear should be slightly lower friction than front to not throw out brake bias.

Not a lot of flat temp curve compounds up to 800C and raybestos doesn't have such

 

[MasterC17]

Thanks
Looks like st45 is quite rotor aggressive http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/raybestos-brake-pad-compounds/raybestos-friction-charts.pdf

It also looks like rear should be slightly lower friction than front to not throw out brake bias.

Not a lot of flat temp curve compounds up to 800C and raybestos doesn't have such
View attachment 584708

I went with the ST-45 as I really liked them when I was running the MS Calipers; I didn't notice much rotor wear from them and they were super consistent and really very easy to drive on. I ran Hawk DTC60's before them which were horrible and wore out incredibly fast. I've still got the RB XT970's in the rear which actually I have to admit have been pretty good - wear is really nice and they are fairly low dust, I just think they aren't suited for the front axle given other peoples experience. The Carbotech RP2's are doing fine on the rear axle, but holy brake dust (there's so much). They are doing not so good for the front axle as they are overheating there (though they work and are low wear). And finally, I find the DS3.11 have a bit too much bite, otherwise QUIET and dust isn't too bad.

I considered going with the Carbotech XP20's as they were nearly $100 cheaper than the ST-45's, but these pads are going on my wife's car. When I had the ST-45's on my car with the MS Calipers they NEVER squeaked. The Carbotech RP2's on the other hand are VERY squeaky. I told my wife that the $4,000 BBK was necessary to fix the squeaking. So I can't risk buying another set of squeaky pads LOL