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AP1 ONLY Please -- life after 2018.50.6
- Thread starter BerTX
- Start date
2023.12.1 Updated Service Menu and tools for legacy cars
On my 2016 MX, I pulled the fireman's loop tonight to try this in service mode. Gateway was already unlocked. BMS reset failed with the exact same error code as when the fireman's loop was connected. The only changes were the battery graphic on that screen turned yellow (from green) when the...
teslamotorsclub.com
brainhouston
Active Member
I don't see that link saying anything about u029 error...
2023.12.1 Updated Service Menu and tools for legacy cars
On my 2016 MX, I pulled the fireman's loop tonight to try this in service mode. Gateway was already unlocked. BMS reset failed with the exact same error code as when the fireman's loop was connected. The only changes were the battery graphic on that screen turned yellow (from green) when the...
Correct, but you were asking about:
I was trying to point out the posters in the other thread haven't been able to even run the reset procedure itself.
brainhouston
Active Member
Has anyone noticed how inaccurate the in-app routing is for our cars? I planned a 700 mile trip on my S85 and the same on one the wife’s MYP and the total time was 5 minutes longer in the S. I’ve consistently achieved 250kW supercharging on the Y. There’s just no way that time estimate is realistic.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Are you saying that there should be a lot more than 5 minutes different? If so I would agree. The MY charges 2.5x the older S and I suspect the MY range is longer too. One would think you should see at least 1/2 hour difference.
BTW at a recent 500 mile trip down I5, I was shocked to see how long Tesla wanted me to charge my car. Sure it stopped less times, but the overall time was longer because they wanted me to charge way into the higher end of the battery. And judging by how many cars were there when I arrived and did not leave before I did, I suspect this is the model Tesla is using for all of its trip planning, even with newer more efficient cars.
I have a BlackVue 970X 2CH on the way. For some strange reason, I recently got a bug up my ass to get a dashcam (never had one in any of my cars and have been driving for 35 years). I've always followed my gut when safety is involved. For $200, you can get a dashcam that plugs into the back of the rearview mirror on AP1 cars and pins into the connector for power. Looks almost factory. The fact that I had to order it from China along with the horrible app ratings swayed me to spend more than twice as much on a 2 channel dashcam lol. Watched DAErik's video for his rear applique to inspire me to rip my liftgate apart this weekend for the rear camera.
AP1 Dashcam from China
BlackVue - 5% discount (5OFFNOW)
START A NEW THREAD DAMMIT!!! (sorry)
Hopefully I didn't hurt any vendors in this post.
whitex
Well-Known Member
I treat dashcams like airbags - hope to never need them but I put then in every family car, including a Tesla which has Sentry/Dashcam built-in because I don't trust it between updates (there have been updates in the past which FUBR'ed dashcam functionality, of course not mentioned in the release notes). So far it has saved enough money to probably pay for all my dashcams into the future. It proved no fault for one totaled, year old Model S, and a rather expensive fix Toyota Corolla. Proving fault on other parties saved $1,000 deductible in each case, plus additional rental costs, diminished value against the guilty party, plus no insurance premium raise. In the Toyota Corolla case it was some off-duty cop trying to blame my daughter, dashcam footage cut through the bullshit of his word vs. hers (heck, he actually managed to convince my daughter at the accident site that she caused it, until I pulled the dashcam footage from her car where it was clear he caused the accident).
So my advice, always have front+back dashcam in your car. Hope to never use it, but know it's there and recording. I've been using Blackvue over Tesla because that is their main business, not a side feature like for Tesla. It's also good about vocally and persistently flagging bad SD cards, hard to ignore by the driver when SD card dies. When I picked up my latest new car in February this year and drove it home 3,500 miles, first thing I did is temporary Blackvue installation (along with a V1 radar detector
).
richrootes
Member
Another couple just appeared with 2023.20.4.1 - steering wheel offset and CCS upgrade
This is getting good - next I’m hoping for being able to toggle the louvres etc to test their functionality!
BrownOuttaSpec
Active Member
CCS upgrade was in 2023.12.1 (post about it here: link) but that upgrade is now becoming less and less useful with everyone in North America on board with the Tesla (NACS) connector
Just got 2023.20.4.1 on my MS 90D AP1 MCU2 last night, the change log was just the normal "minor improvement and bug fixes". Clicking through the menus I didnt see anything new/tweaked. I haven't been for a drive or supercharged yet so I dont have a lot of feedback yet.
richrootes
Member
Oh ok - didn’t see it before. There’s another I forgot - 12V battery type selectorCCS upgrade was in 2023.12.1 (post about it here: link) but that upgrade is now becoming less and less useful with everyone in North America on board with the Tesla (NACS) connector
Just got 2023.20.4.1 on my MS 90D AP1 MCU2 last night, the change log was just the normal "minor improvement and bug fixes". Clicking through the menus I didnt see anything new/tweaked. I haven't been for a drive or supercharged yet so I dont have a lot of feedback yet.
Finally broke down and ordered MCU2. Just... can't... do... it... anymore. I've already had the EMMC chip replaced by Tesla (about 2 years ago) but my MCU will still crash every now and again and sometimes it takes 3 to 4 minutes to wake up out of its coma. Install date, 8/14.
I do have a question for any folks that have replaced MCU1 with MCU2 and have the following vehicle configuration:
2016 Model S P90DL facelift with MCU1, AP1 and HW1 with a V3 battery, so basically 8/2016-9/2016. I think 10/2016 was AP2 with HW2.
Question: After the MCU2 upgrade, did the animation or feedback on the gauge cluster screen change at all when going into Ludicrous+ mode (Max battery) or do you still have absolutely no way of telling your battery is fully heated unless you go into the Pedals and Steering menu in car settings?
I do have a question for any folks that have replaced MCU1 with MCU2 and have the following vehicle configuration:
2016 Model S P90DL facelift with MCU1, AP1 and HW1 with a V3 battery, so basically 8/2016-9/2016. I think 10/2016 was AP2 with HW2.
Question: After the MCU2 upgrade, did the animation or feedback on the gauge cluster screen change at all when going into Ludicrous+ mode (Max battery) or do you still have absolutely no way of telling your battery is fully heated unless you go into the Pedals and Steering menu in car settings?
henderrj
Active Member
No one with AP1 bought FSD. It wasn't available for this configuration. In spite of Elon's early enthusiasm for the idea.
I recently had a loaner 2017 base 75D while my car was getting a battery pack replacement. The driver's side visor mirror cover was completely missing in the loaner. My daughter went to open the passenger side visor mirror and the cover snapped off in her hand when she opened it. It appears to have broken on the inner hinge.
I can see why they changed the mirror cover design. My original 2015 had the plastic visor covers (same as the loaner I had). My 2019 S has the soft flip down cover (no hinges) - much better design.
I guess the next version up will be happy with the option to FINALLY transfer to a new car.
I’m holding out for HW4 Highland Model 3 which will unlikely not be available for order before the transfer window closes.
I have the exact same setup in my MX.
Animation doesn’t change. I went down this rabbit hole with service after MCU2 was installed and they finally told me this capability is only available on the 100 kW batteries, even though toolbox says otherwise.
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