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Approaching a long neglected Roadster

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Don't you have a third choice: have Tesla install an original style used ESS? Or does Tesla no longer offer that?

Of the two choices you pose, the first seems clearly the best to me.

I'm pretty sure that third choice is an option (I know, for a fact, that Tesla has refurbished "original" packs laying around...mine is at the Service Center now getting one installed). But, I think they're still charging original price for it. So, $40K for a "240 mile" pack, or $29K for a 3.0 "380 mile" pack. That's a bit of a no-brainer.

Tesla might not even bother with offering to sell the "old" pack (as a full paid replacement).
 
Uh...that makes no sense. Could Tesla really be doing that? Who would pay more for less?

All I know is that they DO still have "old" packs available (not new, but refurbished). And they're charging the same for them as they did before the 3.0 pack came out.

They charged me around $5K for a battery swap in Jan '15 (swapping out my pack-with-a-dead-sheet for a refurbished pack), and they ALMOST (until I started asking questions) charged me another $5K this month for the same thing.

I would have LOVED for them to tell me "We no longer have old packs so, we HAVE to give you a 3.0 battery", but they didn't.

In fact, before they decided they were going to cover the cost of this "new" pack for me, I seriously considered getting the 3.0 battery.
 
Definitely one hour. Talked to him for a bit standing next to the fresh batt in crate that he was all set to install. This guy is a treasure what with being there, apparently, from day one and getting dibs on the Roadster jobs. When I get to that Shop he will be the first one I'll look for, assuming I can poke around the bays first. Tesla's listed time is something like 3 out and 3 in (from memory) according to him but that allowance is for first timers.

Roadster cells being different from MS cells: As I said I've not ever seen any detail about the Roadster batt, only MS. And that being mostly from @jehugarcia on UTube who had good luck salvaging 'MS' cells and getting them back to 'full service', those being out of a Smarty Car in fact.
Talking with both HQ Service and Denver Service it definitely appears to be the case that no deal for a new 3.0 Batt upgrade is possible if I open up my ESS. So my option here is either the 29k upgrade or have Gruber-EV install a used-good ESS. Thanx to @petergrub for that tip.
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wycolo We have battery recovery tools and been working on new ways to bring these battery packs back up. We talked the other day. If you still have the number to reach me. 1-800-658-5883 x500
 
Just curious... When one gets a new-old pack, what sort of range does it give? The full 248, or something less?
I would bet it is a little less than 245 miles as age seems to be part of the loss equation. But they seem to be holding up overall as I recently did a range charge and saw 220 miles. Not bad for an 8 year old pack with 40,000 miles or 90% of initial
 
I would bet it is a little less than 245 miles as age seems to be part of the loss equation. But they seem to be holding up overall as I recently did a range charge and saw 220 miles. Not bad for an 8 year old pack with 40,000 miles or 90% of initial
Similar story here. My original 2.0 2010 pack also has just over 40k on it, and I get about 217 in range mode. It was just a curiosity question, to file away in the back of my mind in case I need to make a 2.0 repair vs 3.0 new battery choice. I have one desired destination that's 220 road miles away, and can't quite make it. Makes the 3.0 tempting, but I hate the idea of recycling an otherwise perfectly usable original ESS, not to mention the cost.
 
I get 182 ideal miles in std. mode on my ESS that has 40k miles on it, car has 60k. It was a refurbished pack from Tesla that had reached an ideal number of 160 CAC when I had it fully balanced. I haven't done a range mode test in 2 years, I stay away from them unless I ultimately need it. Same with driving the SOC below 20% If I need more miles I'll range mode charge up to 215 miles (range mode) / 195 (std. mode). and manually stop the charger. That way I stay away from the 100% (really 97%) SOC which can be stressful on cells.

I haven't been using my Roadster as my daily commuter sadly enough... I truly miss it, driving it every day, it made the entire commute exhilarating. But I don't miss the increased bad drivers, Priuses, and congestion since I transitioned to using my electric skateboard combined with the Metro bus transit system.

I always aim to leave my ESS sit at 55 to 60% SOC while its sleeping. Only thing with that is that when left for a couple of weeks like that the cells become out of balance. Not an issue, just don't be scared if you see less range while you charge and lower CAC. You'll need to do a charge that brings it above 82% SOC to allow them to balance, range will increase and CAC will slowing begin to climb. It typically takes a day or so to get the cells back to normal. The longer you leave the ESS between lower SOCs, the longer it'll need to balance.
 
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I get 182 ideal miles in std. mode on my ESS that has 40k miles on it,
Nice! I've been at 167 miles on a standard mode charge for most of this season. I think I was around 170 last year. Judging by the EV battery survey, I'm on the lower side of "normal". CAC last time I pulled the logs a couple of weeks ago reported to be 141.63.

I've done a few range charges recently, followed immediately by travel. Didn't seem to affect things any. We'll see what happens over the next couple of years, before giving my wallet a big hug.
 
Progress report: finally was able to drag the dead Roadster onto flatbed trailer and haul to the PacificNW. Bought new 12v agm battery (Interstate FAYTX9) at local auto parts. Chewed my way into battery compartment which had a couple pounds of sand and pea gravel almost filling the space below the battery. I hope the rear wheel wells are better sealed and that there is a way to access the driver's side under the headlight for more sand removal.

Much anticipation as the fresh battery was connected but, alas, no systems were activated except for an audible clicking from inside the dash when the 4-ways were turned on. Door locks remained dead, also the displays. The fact that Tesla Service just ordered the 3.0 Battery Upgrade without doing any of this should have been a clue that an empty traction battery means a dead car. This tiny batt is likely just a buffer for the DC-DC converter or to backup memory.

Will need to clean out all suspension and lower body enclosures; off-roading a Roadster has its costs. The upgrade is at least 90 days waiting.
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Update: New 3.0 battery on order for the 2.0 2010 Roadster. No one at TM harbors the slightest hope for salvaging the original battery which lacked the protective circuitry of:

the 2012 MS battery which was able to charge up to 265 miles as soon as a booster-box was connected to the nose terminals. That is after sitting for almost 3 years! SLC Service put in a new drive unit (gratis) as the old one was still noisy; also a couple of cooling system upgrades and a wiring harness (chewed by rodents). Firmware was so old it would not upgrade without some custom coding from the engineers at headquarters.

The Salt Lake City crew did an excellent restoration on what is now essentially a new car. Both screens and the animated map are complete transformations.
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