My 2010 roadster sport apparently has a failed auxiliary power supply. I am troubled by the $5600 estimate from Tesla and wondering if this can be rebuilt, found used, or if there are any questions I should ask before dropping down my Visa card. Thanks for any ideas.
APS Failure Auxiliary power supply $5600
- Thread starter bgrenell
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- aps roadster 2.0
Oricle
Member
- Jul 12, 2010
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You could give Gruber a call, they are the only alternative to Tesla I know of for rebuilding the electronics
Tesla Roadster
Tesla Roadster
There are fuses inside the APS, and the power transistors that blow are fairly easy to replace. But the problem is getting someone to remove the ESS, open it up and remove the APS for repair. All while the car is on a lift and can't be moved unless it is put back together.
If you do have Tesla repair it, make sure you get the old one, I will give you a few bucks for it.
If you do have Tesla repair it, make sure you get the old one, I will give you a few bucks for it.
X.l.r.8
Supporting Member
This is something we need a club get together for. Having an item like this that’s a relatively cheap part to fix should be available. Could we maybe start a loan of parts that would make troubleshooting an easy fix. Can we opt to keep parts that get replaced so we can build up an inventory
Any way to test the Aps that’s inside the ESS while it’s out ?
Are there lithium’s inside the aps that should be charged up ?
You can take the cover off and test the fuses and power transistors pretty easy. Those are all I have seen go bad. Nothing inside that can be charged.
Thank you!
? I have 1 brick in one cell (which I have out of the eSS ) that charges upto 3.6 but then drops down over night to 1.9 ?
I figured a shorted cell in the brick draining it down but can’t seam to find it ?
I tried applying higher charging rate directly to brick grid. Looking for cell in brick to get hot but to no avail.
Any suggestions welcome
Get a precision voltmeter (mine goes out to four decimal places), and measure each cell in the brick after you charge it. Connect one meter lead to one brick side plate and probe each of the 69 cells directly by the fuse wire on the other side with the remaining lead. Immediately compare that reading to the overall brick voltage (between the side plates). With good cells, all voltages will be the same, a bad cell will read lower, as it is absorbing the current thru the tiny fuse wire. You can expect to have numerous ones that are drawing it down, so start by removing the fuse at the lowest voltage cell and keep testing/cutting until you can keep a charge. I have seen some bad sheets that you have to cut the fuses on over 20 cells, and in that case you will need a new sheet.
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