I supervise the lift. Plus for $20 why even debate it???There is only one problem with this logic - if you think your mechanic is too dumb or blind to find the proper lifting points on a Tesla, what makes you think they will notice the tiny lift pucks?
Conversely, since every lift operator in the world knows not to place lifting arms under the belly pan of ANY car (which would cause damage to any vehicle, not just EVs), what makes you think they will suddenly start making that mistake on a Tesla? Cause they are hopelessly dumb? In which case, see point #1 above.
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Are lifting pucks necessary?
- Thread starter Outpost53
- Start date
Yes, some mechanics are too dumb to find proper lifting points specified by the manufacture. Here are 2 examples of Corvettes falling off of lifts by not using the correct jacking pointsThere is only one problem with this logic - if you think your mechanic is too dumb or blind to find the proper lifting points on a Tesla, what makes you think they will notice the tiny lift pucks?
Conversely, since every lift operator in the world knows not to place lifting arms under the belly pan of ANY car (which would cause damage to any vehicle, not just EVs), what makes you think they will suddenly start making that mistake on a Tesla? Cause they are hopelessly dumb? In which case, see point #1 above.
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MaskedRacerX
Member
I have this jack, figured for like $20-30 the extra weight capacity (over the 1.5 or 2 ton) was a nice __extra__ margin of safety:
www.harborfreight.com
Hard to beat for $179 (sometimes there's a storewide $10+ coupon), 3-ton, super smooth and quick, very low profile, works with my M3P and these jacking pucks (which are more or less like every other one that looks the same):
3 Ton Low-Profile Professional Floor Jack with RAPID PUMP, Black
Amazing deals on this Black 3T Steel Low-Profile Floor Jack at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Hard to beat for $179 (sometimes there's a storewide $10+ coupon), 3-ton, super smooth and quick, very low profile, works with my M3P and these jacking pucks (which are more or less like every other one that looks the same):
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
They aren't lifting it on the belly pan, they are lifting it on the wrong spot on the rails or sometimes on the correct general area but being slightly off, or sometimes the lifts they use don't have pads, so they damage the car.There is only one problem with this logic - if you think your mechanic is too dumb or blind to find the proper lifting points on a Tesla, what makes you think they will notice the tiny lift pucks?
Conversely, since every lift operator in the world knows not to place lifting arms under the belly pan of ANY car (which would cause damage to any vehicle, not just EVs), what makes you think they will suddenly start making that mistake on a Tesla? Cause they are hopelessly dumb? In which case, see point #1 above.
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MaskedRacerX
Member
Oh, meant to add a torque wrench suggestion.
I picked this one up at Amazon, it was recommended on a few sites (i.e., "Best torque / reviews ..."), people have checked the calibration and said it was pretty spot on, it's built super solid:
LEXIVON 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench 25-250 Ft-Lb/33.9-338.9 Nm
~$70, on sale for $55, plus a 15% off click-coupon.
I picked this one up at Amazon, it was recommended on a few sites (i.e., "Best torque / reviews ..."), people have checked the calibration and said it was pretty spot on, it's built super solid:
LEXIVON 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench 25-250 Ft-Lb/33.9-338.9 Nm
~$70, on sale for $55, plus a 15% off click-coupon.
jackmott
Member
On most cars being a little off with the jacking points results in no damage or cosmetic damage, on a Tesla it can be expensive. A policy of always using the pucks probably has more value just in creating a process that forces you to locate the lifting points correctly. It would be nice if tesla made a larger area around those points strong enough to handle things, as some people are going to have a bad time. When possible you need to design for how people actually are, rather than how they should be.
ODWms
Member
Same here, on the rear passenger side. Must have been in over 5000 miles!Speaking of ...
So I got some terrific pads, I used one several weeks ago, forgot, left it in - just noticed it this past week when we were up in Savannah (after ~180 miles of highway travel), still hanging toughI did pull it out, took some force, that's great that you __could__ almost leave them in, but clearly that's not the design intent.
rpiotro
Active Member
Designing for the lowest common denominator will always require significant changes. Beware of what you wish for.
Excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge. It's been 25 years since I last jacked up a car. I still have my jack but the saddle is too small to fit the puck I bought and I can't see smaller size pucks available. I'd read not to jack with this set-up due to the possibility of slippage. Is there any adapters available, or can I jack directly onto the jack points, or is it new jack time?
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help!
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New jack. Will cost far less accidental slippage or missing the lift point.
Keep in mind the main reason for lifting pucks is for lifting ARMS because the battery is slightly below the lifting points. That’s why you typically get 4 and they attach to the car too.
That is a wide Gnarly cup OP has. And the puck looks on the wide side. They make smaller diameter pucks that should fit. Mine look like they would fit fine.
That is a wide Gnarly cup OP has. And the puck looks on the wide side. They make smaller diameter pucks that should fit. Mine look like they would fit fine.
Yes, I've read the puck should fit inside to avoid the risk of slippage. I'm not sure how likely that would be while loosening wheel nuts, maybe.
SDRick
Active Member
Are you using only 1 jack to rotate 2 wheels at a time? I thought it was better practice to use 2 jacks if a full lift was not available.
RayK
Active Member
I know it's probably unlikely to happen, but what if the car starts to shift sideways? What's to prevent it from happening if the puck is not "plugged into" the car's chassis without the nipple?
I think the urethane? puck has just enough give, to allow a small amount of car movement, without the puck itself moving. The rubber and aluminum pucks with nipples are harder and have little give. I'd be a little more worried about a car shifting if it was sitting on a hard rubber or aluminum puck.
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