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If its not asking too much ... Could you check the labels on my picture (from Tesla Roadster) and compare to your Model S? Measure voltage on the two centre pins (red, black?) - it should be +12V permanent. The other pins are probably can buses.
Thanks, Mark
retinadoc
Member
nkohlimd
You are quite right
I emailed Blinder and they basically said I am losing about 20% of overall protection. Should only the headlight be targeted at close range I am probably screwed. In the real world, the cone that a LIDAR gun emits is 3ft across at 1000ft. Hence the logic having two detectors to cover the front. The recessed location is also not optimal for protecting against a point blank side hit, and Artsci's nosecone install will maximize performance.
So far I have been tagged 3X with no issues. I am a firm believer in the mantra that my surgical mentor imparted onto me. "the enemy of good is perfect," and for now I am leaving well enough alone.
You are quite right
I emailed Blinder and they basically said I am losing about 20% of overall protection. Should only the headlight be targeted at close range I am probably screwed. In the real world, the cone that a LIDAR gun emits is 3ft across at 1000ft. Hence the logic having two detectors to cover the front. The recessed location is also not optimal for protecting against a point blank side hit, and Artsci's nosecone install will maximize performance.So far I have been tagged 3X with no issues. I am a firm believer in the mantra that my surgical mentor imparted onto me. "the enemy of good is perfect," and for now I am leaving well enough alone.
Too late for me
I'm trying to finish today the hole I started yesterday. I also have some requests to fulfill from this thread as well.Hi Lloyd, any chance you can take a picture of where you punched through for this? I'd be a little hesitant to do any work around the orange cables in fear of nicking them. BTW what do you mean "heated awl"? You didn't use a drill? Or are you saying there was already a hole there with two #6 wires which leaves enough room for our own wires? A picture would really help!
Thanks!
Did you say the hose terminates won both sides to noting?
I was thinking the hose is for drainage for the windshield wiper well area. AC condensation drainage also is a good guess. If it was for future runs, why would it not just be a cheap plastic cap (unless for easier guidance)?
Another guess. Battery coolant filling? Can't see the bottom where it goes. Does it go into the battery pack near where it says TESLA?
Ok I see it now on the frunk side just ending downward. Air pressure relief so the doors close? Maybe it drains the cabin if you leave your pano roof open in the rain!
I was thinking the hose is for drainage for the windshield wiper well area. AC condensation drainage also is a good guess. If it was for future runs, why would it not just be a cheap plastic cap (unless for easier guidance)?
Another guess. Battery coolant filling? Can't see the bottom where it goes. Does it go into the battery pack near where it says TESLA?
Ok I see it now on the frunk side just ending downward. Air pressure relief so the doors close? Maybe it drains the cabin if you leave your pano roof open in the rain!
I might be a bit concerned running control wiring for radar, and sensors so close to orange high voltage wires for the fear of EMI ( electo magnetic inductance) disturbing the messages down the sensor wires.
bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
Problem solved. It turns out the blue stuff was just a sound or heat-barrier lining behind the second "firewall" level. I just cut it out. Turns out the hole I drilled was in the perfect location (got lucky here). It exits in an open space below the touch screen about 4-5 inches from the back of the cubby. I've threaded all the cable through and am now completing all the wiring for some testing before I put all the pieces back together. It will be very easy to make the connections to the cubby control panel.
It does appear that the hose drains the air conditioning system. I can't tell for sure but it does connect to something higher up behind the touch screen.
I'll post later with more photos when I finish the job and test everything. I know some of you are eager to know how the Parking Dynamics system works. Should know soon.
It does appear that the hose drains the air conditioning system. I can't tell for sure but it does connect to something higher up behind the touch screen.
I'll post later with more photos when I finish the job and test everything. I know some of you are eager to know how the Parking Dynamics system works. Should know soon.
I could have sworn my tube just terminated open-ended inside the passenger compartment, but yours clearly doesn't. Of course, I don't have a photo to prove it, and I really don't want to take everything apart again.
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This is an excellent point. Although I didn't run anywhere near the HV cables, I do seem to have the interesting issue that when I honk the horn, the radar detector thinks it's seeing laser I did follow existing (low voltage) runs where possible in the frunk, so I'm guessing I'm picking up some WMI from the horn power wire, wherever that is. I can live with it until I end up pulling the frunk apart to install something else.
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This is an excellent point. Although I didn't run anywhere near the HV cables, I do seem to have the interesting issue that when I honk the horn, the radar detector thinks it's seeing laser
I did follow existing (low voltage) runs where possible in the frunk, so I'm guessing I'm picking up some WMI from the horn power wire, wherever that is. I can live with it until I end up pulling the frunk apart to install something else.
Ron95030
Member
I'm pretty certain this is simply a air pressure release for the frunk lid closure. With a tight weather strip around the perimeter of the lid, that final inch of compression when closing the lid (supposed to be done with TWO hands, per my DS) would result in an air pressure buildup which could prevent reliable closure. This "escape route" vents into the cabin, where there is a larger volume to absorb that short-duration shockwave. With a double wall to penetrate, two grommets and a hose makes for a permanant and secure fitting.
The mod is now finished, everything is set up and all works well. Here are a few photos of the final results with the control box for the radar detector, laser jammer, and parking dynamics electromagnetic front parking sensors.
The latter works great -- stopped me 3" from the 6" curb in my parking space -- I'd never gotten that close as I was always way too cautious without the sensors. As I have a radar gun and laser gun tester, I was able to double check the functioning of both, which is excellent. Remember, all of this is mounted in the nose cone, which makes it very accessible and easy to mount. Haven't been able to test the EZPass yet but will soon.
Once I clear the hole in the firewall I used a flexible rod (the orange thing in the photos) to pull all of the cable through. I did one connection at a time and worked very carefully. Once all the cables were pulled through, most of them were way too long, so I trimmed off all the access and put new connectors on the ends. The power is from the glovebox light fuse in fuse box #2 and I made the ground connection to a bolt in the frunk. As I didn't want to take anything else apart in the passenger compartment I ran the leads for power and ground through the hole. Here are a few photos of work in progress.
This photo shows where the cables come through firewall hole just below the lower back of the touchscreen. This space is easily accessed once the side panels for the center console have been pried off (easy to do as they're attached with spring clips). If you look carefully you can see the hose in the background (a gray shape curving up). The hose diameter by the way is about .8" This space is also great for packing in any excess cable.
Here are all the loose cable waiting to be attached to the control box.
One of the most difficult parts of these steps was getting the cubby with all the hardware in it to snap back into place. It's just a case of getting the two rear spring clips attached first, and since they're hard to see and the angle is a bit tricky, it took about a dozen attempts before it snapped into place. The photo below shows it just before I snapped the right side fully into place.
If anyone has questions about this mod and any of the steps, post here or PM me.
The latter works great -- stopped me 3" from the 6" curb in my parking space -- I'd never gotten that close as I was always way too cautious without the sensors. As I have a radar gun and laser gun tester, I was able to double check the functioning of both, which is excellent. Remember, all of this is mounted in the nose cone, which makes it very accessible and easy to mount. Haven't been able to test the EZPass yet but will soon.
Once I clear the hole in the firewall I used a flexible rod (the orange thing in the photos) to pull all of the cable through. I did one connection at a time and worked very carefully. Once all the cables were pulled through, most of them were way too long, so I trimmed off all the access and put new connectors on the ends. The power is from the glovebox light fuse in fuse box #2 and I made the ground connection to a bolt in the frunk. As I didn't want to take anything else apart in the passenger compartment I ran the leads for power and ground through the hole. Here are a few photos of work in progress.
This photo shows where the cables come through firewall hole just below the lower back of the touchscreen. This space is easily accessed once the side panels for the center console have been pried off (easy to do as they're attached with spring clips). If you look carefully you can see the hose in the background (a gray shape curving up). The hose diameter by the way is about .8" This space is also great for packing in any excess cable.
Here are all the loose cable waiting to be attached to the control box.
One of the most difficult parts of these steps was getting the cubby with all the hardware in it to snap back into place. It's just a case of getting the two rear spring clips attached first, and since they're hard to see and the angle is a bit tricky, it took about a dozen attempts before it snapped into place. The photo below shows it just before I snapped the right side fully into place.
If anyone has questions about this mod and any of the steps, post here or PM me.
Hi Lloyd, any chance you can take a picture of where you punched through for this? I'd be a little hesitant to do any work around the orange cables in fear of nicking them. BTW what do you mean "heated awl"? You didn't use a drill? Or are you saying there was already a hole there with two #6 wires which leaves enough room for our own wires? A picture would really help!
The gromet is plastic, and there isn't room for a drill in there and I did not want to risk damage to the high voltage wires, so I heated an instrument to make the hole in the adjacent plastic to feed the wired. It worked really slick. I'm not really excited about taking my car apart again for the sake of a picture, but it is really obvious once you have the cabin air box removed. I'll look through the pictures that others have taken and see if this gromet is shown.
Thanks to you and all for the kudos. It was very rewarding to finish this, as it all started months ago before I had the car. It was great to have it all come together only two weeks after taking delivery. Now all I need is my MD registration and plates
