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RogerHScott
Active Member
I would want to see a photo of the right side from ground level, or shooting up, with the doors out of the way to see what, if any, damage there is to the battery.
Not only that, why didn't the airbags deploy? what happened to this car?
I was born and raised in florida, I'd be wary of Florida salvages due to flood/rain/water potential being higher than other parts of the country too... dont think thats at play here, but just to be safe.
So, I ordered a new pyrofuse just to be sure. In the meantime, here is what I'm noticing:
1) The 14V battery seems to have about 10V when the car is jumped, otherwise it is low (I'm going to trickle charge it)
2) The A/C works when the car is jumped
3) The charge port does not open (not sure why!?)
4) All fuses are working with an exception for one (will replace soon)
Some thoughts:
If the A/C is blowing cold air, doesn't this mean the HV battery pack is feeding current to DC-DC converter properly and hence contactors are closed?
If the above statement is true, then shouldn't the HV battery pack charge the 14V battery? If so, how can we explain the car shutting off as soon as the jumper cables are removed? Is it b/c the 14V battery is not fully charged?
Assuming the Pyrofuse is good, and given everything above, what else could be preventing the car from driving?
1) The 14V battery seems to have about 10V when the car is jumped, otherwise it is low (I'm going to trickle charge it)
2) The A/C works when the car is jumped
3) The charge port does not open (not sure why!?)
4) All fuses are working with an exception for one (will replace soon)
Some thoughts:
If the A/C is blowing cold air, doesn't this mean the HV battery pack is feeding current to DC-DC converter properly and hence contactors are closed?
If the above statement is true, then shouldn't the HV battery pack charge the 14V battery? If so, how can we explain the car shutting off as soon as the jumper cables are removed? Is it b/c the 14V battery is not fully charged?
Assuming the Pyrofuse is good, and given everything above, what else could be preventing the car from driving?
I think you are right if the AC is actually working then the HV contactors are closing. If it isn't charging the 12v battery that could mean that a fuse is blown in the DC-DC convertor. (Or in the path from the DC-DC convertor to the 12v battery.)
@Btr_ftw
I'm getting the following errors:
Park Assist Disabled (I get this on/off)
Car Needs Service (PULL OVER SAFELY)
Car Needs Service (Contact Tesla Service)
I removed the battery yesterday and I plan to trickle charge it tomorrow when my charger comes in. On a side note, Tesla should fire the engineer who thought it was a good idea to put the battery at that location
.
How do I check if the bumps are turning on? Can you confirm in the picture below I'm correctly identifying the coolant pumps?
In retrospect, I don't think I have properly checked all fuses - only the ones above the the battery. And even then, I have not checked the 225AMP fuse, which in @Yauheni's case, was blown, see here. I'm also starting to think perhaps there could be blown fuses in the High Voltage Junction Box (HVJB).
So, maybe I should do a proper and thorough sweep of all fuses? what do you think? If so, how do I get to the DC-DC converter and HVJB? I need guidance in locating and identifying them. Also, please indicate any safety precautions I need to take; I have disconnected the HV cut loop (FYI).
I'm getting the following errors:
Park Assist Disabled (I get this on/off)
Car Needs Service (PULL OVER SAFELY)
Car Needs Service (Contact Tesla Service)
I removed the battery yesterday and I plan to trickle charge it tomorrow when my charger comes in. On a side note, Tesla should fire the engineer who thought it was a good idea to put the battery at that location
.How do I check if the bumps are turning on? Can you confirm in the picture below I'm correctly identifying the coolant pumps?
In retrospect, I don't think I have properly checked all fuses - only the ones above the the battery. And even then, I have not checked the 225AMP fuse, which in @Yauheni's case, was blown, see here. I'm also starting to think perhaps there could be blown fuses in the High Voltage Junction Box (HVJB).
So, maybe I should do a proper and thorough sweep of all fuses? what do you think? If so, how do I get to the DC-DC converter and HVJB? I need guidance in locating and identifying them. Also, please indicate any safety precautions I need to take; I have disconnected the HV cut loop (FYI).
There is no need to remove the SIM card. If Tesla disabled anything, they have already done it.
Applying 12v and removing it suddenly again and again is very bad for the eMMC flash. It's like pulling power to a desktop PC while it's on. Each time it's spinning the roulette wheel, Eventually you are going to damage the filesystem in a way that will require you to replace the MCU. ($$$$$)
Contact me in a PM and I will get you a diagnostic dump of the car so you'll know exactly what's wrong, no guesswork needed.
Applying 12v and removing it suddenly again and again is very bad for the eMMC flash. It's like pulling power to a desktop PC while it's on. Each time it's spinning the roulette wheel, Eventually you are going to damage the filesystem in a way that will require you to replace the MCU. ($$$$$)
Contact me in a PM and I will get you a diagnostic dump of the car so you'll know exactly what's wrong, no guesswork needed.
RogerHScott
Active Member
Interesting. Tesla's procedure for isolating HV involves removing 12V and reapplying at the end of the procedure. I've seen the service manual too. There is no step to gracefully shutdown the MCU.
Tesla also leaves crazy amounts of logging turned on hammering the eMMC flash continuously. They don't care if they have to replace a few Tegra modules because of it. Most of the time these days the car is out of warranty, so they bill YOU the ~$4k cost of replacing the ENTIRE MCU.
On my remote app, I have a shutdown button that takes care of this safely. Unfortunately there is no sure-fire safe way to do it without my app. Though the "Vehicle Power off" button can sometimes work under "Controls", "Controls" tab, "E-Brake & Power off". Problem is there is no way to tell if it worked.
Again, it's roulette. You may do it 20 times with no ill effects, but on the 21st time, you loose your eMMC and have a black screen. I have a stack of dead units here to attest to this. If you have to work on HV, I recommend you put on an external power supply and pull the BMS fuse and/or the first responder loop. (This leaves the MCU powered on) Also handy for having music while you work! =)
It removes 12v power to the contactor drive, thus preventing the contactors from being closed, so opening both positive and negative connections inside the HV battery. It also cuts power to the RCM (Airbag ECU) so the system is "safed".
Pulling the BMS fuse will also drop contactor drive, and that's a little easier to get to depending on when the car was built.
Pulling the BMS fuse will also drop contactor drive, and that's a little easier to get to depending on when the car was built.
Hello Roger,
After spending 2h in order to find out how I could get inside iaai, I successfully fond a dealer who allowed me to be his "guest" and I paid the $75 (ouchh) guest fee to iaai to check the car.
I took few pictures without the doors panels, what do you think of this? From my perspective the battery pack has not been touch but few structures of the car seems to have been cut out.... easy fix or forget about it, comments?
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