Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Audio Amp.... decrease range???

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I have an audio amp from my previous car that I will be installing into my M3P. It is a 6 channel but I will only be utilizing 2 channels bridged to a subwoofer. How much of a range hit will I take from having an audio amp installed? Specs of amp below. TIA

6 x 125 Watts @ 4 Ohm
6 x 200 Watts @ 2 Ohm
3 x 400 Watts @ 4 Ohm bridged
3 x 40 amps
 
I don't understand that "3x40 amps" line, but looking at the other lines I see you plan to only use 2 of the 400 watt lines total. That's 800 watts, run continuously that's 0.8kwh per hour, or ~3 miles per hour of usage(assuming 266 wh/mile). There's certainly some overhead, so expect ~4 miles per hour.

The pile of other unused channels should have relatively low draw unless there are loads on them.

You might have some trouble finding a 12V source for your ~1000 watt load. That's 83 amps.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Eddie1218
The Model 3P has about 75 kWh of battery power. Lets say that you drive for three hours to use up that range.

You take the amount of power in watts, divide by 1000 and multiply by 3 to get your number of kWh used.

So if it is 200W, it will use 0.6 kWh over three hours.

Divide that by 60 kWh (underestimating usable range) and you get 1%. 400W would be 2%.

This is assuming highway driving - the loss will be higher at low speeds due to the additional time it is running.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Eddie1218
I'm not an expert here so it's more of a question... You seem to calculate the full 400W per channel... Wouldn't that only be true when the volume is cranked to the max? Or does an amp really always consume total power?

In fact, shouldn't we be looking at the power draw of the device and not the output sound watts? I think they're not the same.
 
I'm not an expert here so it's more of a question... You seem to calculate the full 400W per channel... Wouldn't that only be true when the volume is cranked to the max? Or does an amp really always consume total power?

Not unless its class A, which would never be the case for in-car stuff. It will have a small power draw when idling, but as you note most of the time won't be anywhere near 400W. To be honest, 400W power for a space the size of the car is silly, but the OP no doubt likes his bass thump. Though as noted the 12V system is not designed for anything like that power level (I'm reminded of a poor Honda Civic I saw once, decked out with so much sub-woofer power that every time the thing hit s bass note the headlights would dim.)
 
I'm not an expert here so it's more of a question... You seem to calculate the full 400W per channel... Wouldn't that only be true when the volume is cranked to the max? Or does an amp really always consume total power?

In fact, shouldn't we be looking at the power draw of the device and not the output sound watts? I think they're not the same.

I assume that if the user has an amp like that, its because they use a good chunk of that power much of the time. Low frequency speakers actually do move lots of air which is why they use significant power.

We should be looking at the power draw of the device, which is guaranteed to be at least a little more than the output sound watts(at a given volume level). Since we don't have the efficiency, I just assumed.
 
Thx for this info. Here are a few more details I should have provided in my question

The amp I have is an Audiocontrol LC-6.1200 class C amp. It will be connect to a JL Audio CP110-W0v3 rated at 300 watts RMS.

I don't normally listen to music at high volume but I do like to feel the music. I normally have my crossovers set to what I feel is missing in the stock system. To be honest, I have never been in a Tesla in my life. So I have no idea how the stock system sounds or how is drives.







 
whether those figures are peaks or averaged , theyre at maximum output. Most of the time, you're listening at single digit to low double-digits.

The JL subwoofer has sensitivity of 84db, so to get say 93db (double power 3 times), it only needs 2^3 = 8 watts. And let's say theres some overhead consumption by the amp so its maybe 10W. multiply by 6 channels/drivers thats 60W... but obviously the smaller drivers are much more efficient than subwoofer.


Basically, at normal listening volumes, it barely consumes any power
 
Short answer: inconsequential/unmeasurable to you

Car amp Wattage is over exaggerated and in music is really if every used. Home amps used to be covered by the FTC that regulated they must use a Root Mean Squared with a full frequency response with both channels driven simultaneously measurement. Most still tend to follow this method. Car amps were never covered and can and do say almost anything. The Wattage tends to be the ABSOLUTE highest microsecond peak possible under the most ideal power supply conditions at an isolated frequency with only one channel used. Also Class D is by far the most efficient class of amp and uses VERY little current under real world listening conditions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sophias_dad
Now my system I installed in my X in my garage is a Whole different situation!
I’m losing mega miles since I did this install however I’m a realtor who drives mostly locally.

I have AT2300.1
AT200.4
CT150.4
Audio Control 810 dsp
Extra lithium battery as well as Ohmmu lithium for main 12v.

Due to health issues it’s taken me awhile to do this as well as sound deadening the entire vehicle!
I’m almost done just need to clean up wiring under the hood and make trim panels.

I used to get decent range 210 miles or so 85D but now I’m closer to 170. Lol
 

Attachments

  • 2EFF4CBB-9E6E-4927-9F6E-20CFD31486C2.jpeg
    2EFF4CBB-9E6E-4927-9F6E-20CFD31486C2.jpeg
    484.5 KB · Views: 164
  • F2C6FA9A-976C-45A7-B044-F6DC91FDA663.jpeg
    F2C6FA9A-976C-45A7-B044-F6DC91FDA663.jpeg
    702.9 KB · Views: 54