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Audiophiles w/ Model 3's

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They are Tesla accessories. Online or at delivery center. By the way does anyone know if I purchase online can I return it to the store if I don’t like it?

No, the stores don't want to have anything to do with the online shop. In fact you probably won't hear back from the online shop either if you don't like it. Their customer service is non-existent. I been trying to return my cable organizer that doesn't actually secure the cable at all really and crickets. Going to file a dispute with CC tomorrow.
 
No, the stores don't want to have anything to do with the online shop. In fact you probably won't hear back from the online shop either if you don't like it. Their customer service is non-existent. I been trying to return my cable organizer that doesn't actually secure the cable at all really and crickets. Going to file a dispute with CC tomorrow.

That's discouraging. Perhaps I'm better off buying at the store then.
 
No, the stores don't want to have anything to do with the online shop. In fact you probably won't hear back from the online shop either if you don't like it. Their customer service is non-existent. I been trying to return my cable organizer that doesn't actually secure the cable at all really and crickets. Going to file a dispute with CC tomorrow.

I've returned something recently and had zero issue in doing so.
 
Just a handful of clips hold it in... I used a pry tool and just started working my way around the edge. You have to apply some moderate force... don't worry you're not going to break anything. Once you've released the first clip, the rest are a lot easier since you can pull on the trip a little more. Once all the clips are loose, you lift the trim straight up (there's a lip that slots into the window at the top of the trim).
 
I've done all four rear doors on our two cars. Boy it was a breeze except for getting the Clips off. It took 50 60 lb of pull on one door to get the clips to come off. I was really concerned they were going to break but they're pretty sturdy. Second removal is way easier probably because the clip holder expands bit. Shout out again and thanks to flashfloodER.

Couldn't be more pleased with the Noico sound dampening material. It sticks like crazy and the Quilted outer aluminum layer is perfect for figuring out what you haven't really rolled down tight yet. Plus the aluminum is thin enough that it doesn't cut your fingers but thick enough so that it's durable. The stuff also can be rolled and some very odd shapes and to cover geometrically very strange surfaces. It took about an hour to do each door and each door was done a little bit better than the previous one. All the doors now shut with a very satisfying thunk. I went back and redid the first door applying what I had learned. I highly recommend that people with even minimal mechanical skills do this themselves. It's really worth it. Next on the hit-list is the front doors and then the rear package shelf and then the trunk.
20190113_160132.jpg
 
This is my first post here, so it may as well be audio-related, seeing as I too make 100% of my living in that world (Multi-Grammy engineer, 2 x Cinema Audio Society winner, 1 x TEC Award, blah blah blah). Also not meant to brag, just meant to say that I haven't seen the sun in almost 30 years, lol. Not until I got my P3D+, that is.

mswlogo - Your graph is pretty close to how my ears hear my system. The bass is a little bloated and the upper frequencies lack a little clarity. It's all minor, though. It should also be noted that the ECM8000 has a 3db rise at about 8k, which means the Model 3's upper frequencies are even a little less present than your graph indicates (unless your software compensates for the mic's rise, which I don't know). A slight bump in the upper frequencies (talking no more than 2.5db or so, explained why below) and possibly a tiny reduction in Low Mids to reduce boxiness cleans up the overall sound pretty well. In all honesty, the system right out of the box is VERY good and I usually just leave it flat, as designed. I was very pleasantly surprised when I played my usual test tracks (read: almost anything mixed by Bob Clearmountain, Hugh Padgham or Nigel Godrich, plus some of my own stuff as well just because).

I think spending any money to tweak this system is a waste and will in most cases make things worse. The only possible exception might be the strategic use of Dynamat, but only then if you have money to burn. I have $800k in audio equipment and won't spend one thin dime upgrading the audio in my Model 3. I'm satisfied.

Hecdog - I would agree with your observation that there is a lack of clarity in the low-mids, but I believe it's due to a little bit of frequency crowding. This is why I think a slight reduction in the low mids might be an improvement.

Also, I would respectfully suggest that there are a few reasons why you might not want to boost all frequency bands as much as you have. For one, doing so is not simply a flat increase of the overall output by 8db, nor does the overall EQ remain steady when doing so. One reason is that fundamentally, as with any amplifier, an increase in gain equals an increase in noise. The bigger issue for me is that, unless this is a linear phase EQ (which I'm sure it isn't), you will introduce phase anomalies when you boost across multiple bands. This is especially true when using broadband EQs with fixed, non-adaptive Qs, such as the Model 3's 5-band EQ. I start to hear phase shifting at about 3.5db of boost in my P3D+, which is why I'd boost highs no more than +2.5db (if I'm hearing them at +3.5db, they are certainly happening sooner than that). Phase anomalies are sometimes OK if you're EQing individual tracks within a mix, but they will certainly be destructive across a full mix.

Now, is phase shift on a mix necessarily wrong? No. Will most people hear it? No. Is it necessarily wrong to boost that much? Of course not. Just saying that if your goal is to faithfully reproduce the material as cleanly as possible, I'd suggest not over-boosting. I'm definitely a graduate of the so-called "subtractive EQ" school of mixing. Having said all that, if it sounds good, who cares what's right or wrong? Do what sounds good to you. To paraphrase the famous engineer Tom Lord-Alge: "The EQ goes to +8db for a reason. Use it!" (his original quote referred to the +15db on the SSL, but it works here).
 
What are you EQ settings?

Today, it's at +0.5, -0.5, 0, +1,+ 2.5.

I'm not convinced that the slight bump on the low end is going to stay. I may send that back to unity (0db).

Boosting high end opens up most mixes "air" and helps with clarity, but with one caveat: aside from the phasing issues explained earlier, poorly-recorded vocals can get a little sibilant if I push the high end much further than +2.5db.
 
Today, it's at +0.5, -0.5, 0, +1,+ 2.5.

I'm not convinced that the slight bump on the low end is going to stay. I may send that back to unity (0db).

Boosting high end opens up most mixes "air" and helps with clarity, but with one caveat: aside from the phasing issues explained earlier, poorly-recorded vocals can get a little sibilant if I push the high end much further than +2.5db.
I’m fairly sensitive to sibilance and glad to read you think +2.5 is the right threshold. I reduced mine back down to that level after playing around with some of the suggestions as I noticed the upper end sounding a bit harsh.
 
I found the second to bottom needs a 1db boost and the rest is flat.
For what style music? Hip Hop is abysmal with less than 8db low end boost. However then it's way too boomy for rock etc. Anyone know what frequency the ported woofer box is tuned for?

I think a higher powered 10" sub in a sealed box would be a huge improvement and require less futzing with the EQ.
 
Today, it's at +0.5, -0.5, 0, +1,+ 2.5.

I'm not convinced that the slight bump on the low end is going to stay. I may send that back to unity (0db).

Boosting high end opens up most mixes "air" and helps with clarity, but with one caveat: aside from the phasing issues explained earlier, poorly-recorded vocals can get a little sibilant if I push the high end much further than +2.5db.

Thanks for this. I generally like a flat frequency response since I have a wide music taste. I have some studio monitors (first gen Mackie HR824) that I use as my main speakers at my desk and your EQ without the lowest end bump sounds the best so far out of all EQ suggestions.

As an aside, if I wanted to upgrade my Mackie HR824s that I've had for 15 years to something new, what are some speakers you would suggest me looking into?
 
As an aside, if I wanted to upgrade my Mackie HR824s that I've had for 15 years to something new, what are some speakers you would suggest me looking into?

The first two questions I always ask when making monitor suggestions: what's your budget, and where do you do most of your listening? As I'm sure you've discovered, monitors can run anywhere from $250 to $10,000. Do you do all of your listening at a desk?

(Mod: if this should be asked and answered privately, please let us know.)
 
The first two questions I always ask when making monitor suggestions: what's your budget, and where do you do most of your listening? As I'm sure you've discovered, monitors can run anywhere from $250 to $10,000. Do you do all of your listening at a desk?

(Mod: if this should be asked and answered privately, please let us know.)

The thread is titled 'Audiophiles with Model 3s' thread so technically it is on topic ;) But happy to move to PM too.

I can spend up to $4k a set of powered speakers but I prefer to not be too far off on the optimal diminishing returns curve. I do most listening at a desk but I would prefer speakers that I can later use in another application (in living room) for example. My 15 year old Mackie HR824s have been keeping me happy but I'd like to see what I may be missing with an upgrade.

I don't do any mixing or sound production, I just generally prefer a clear flat frequency response for listening.

The Model 3 does not have clarity or punch anywhere close to the HR824s but I don't think I can expect it.
 
For what style music? Hip Hop is abysmal with less than 8db low end boost. However then it's way too boomy for rock etc. Anyone know what frequency the ported woofer box is tuned for?

I think a higher powered 10" sub in a sealed box would be a huge improvement and require less futzing with the EQ.
I’ve got 300W going to a Focal P25F. It is a huge improvement :)
 
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Also, I would respectfully suggest that there are a few reasons why you might not want to boost all frequency bands as much as you have. For one, doing so is not simply a flat increase of the overall output by 8db, nor does the overall EQ remain steady when doing so. One reason is that fundamentally, as with any amplifier, an increase in gain equals an increase in noise. The bigger issue for me is that, unless this is a linear phase EQ (which I'm sure it isn't), you will introduce phase anomalies when you boost across multiple bands. This is especially true when using broadband EQs with fixed, non-adaptive Qs, such as the Model 3's 5-band EQ. I start to hear phase shifting at about 3.5db of boost in my P3D+, which is why I'd boost highs no more than +2.5db (if I'm hearing them at +3.5db, they are certainly happening sooner than that). Phase anomalies are sometimes OK if you're EQing individual tracks within a mix, but they will certainly be destructive across a full mix.

...perfect example of how two competent audio professionals can totally disagree and be ok with it. I've tried your settings. I'll stick with mine. Cheers!
 
The thread is titled 'Audiophiles with Model 3s' thread so technically it is on topic ;) But happy to move to PM too.

I can spend up to $4k a set of powered speakers but I prefer to not be too far off on the optimal diminishing returns curve. I do most listening at a desk but I would prefer speakers that I can later use in another application (in living room) for example. My 15 year old Mackie HR824s have been keeping me happy but I'd like to see what I may be missing with an upgrade.

I don't do any mixing or sound production, I just generally prefer a clear flat frequency response for listening.

The Model 3 does not have clarity or punch anywhere close to the HR824s but I don't think I can expect it.

Doesn't matter to me - I'm just new here and don't know the rules yet or how heavy-handed the moderating is. I can't even figure out how to like a post yet :D

You can do really well for less than $4k. Some to consider are Unity Audio Rocks, Focal Solo6 (or Twin if you can afford), or a completely non-sexy but great monitor line, the JBL 7-series, like the 708P. Nice thing about the JBL is they have room-mode correction, so you can get them completely flat. They are some of the best-designed monitors out there.

Also, one of my favorites newer brands is Amphion, which is a Finnish. The one18 is a little above your price range, and the one15 is a little below. They are "self-powered", but they separate the amp from the speakers, which may not work for you. They sound fantastic though.

I'd probably start with the Rocks and JBLs and see how you get on.
 
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