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Hey all! I've been plotting upgrading my speakers since I got my car in December and posted in a different thread in the past (pestering flashflooder with some questions about his setup). Obviously doing the 4" speakers isn't super difficult, but I also want to do the woofers up front as well (probably with the 8" Focals), and mount all the speakers as well as possible, so now that I have my 3D printer running I am likely to design and print out my own brackets to get everything setup as ideally as possible.
I was planning to do this whenever I got around to it but I've seen a few people asking about brackets and so I wonder: is there a good amount of interest here if I were to design brackets and offer them for reasonable cost to recoup my (and my printer's) time and materials? Maybe something like $15 for a pair of brackets? I could also put together kits for others interested who don't want to go searching for feather headers and screws, etc.
Any thoughts on that? I haven't done all the measurements yet so I have to first verify my printer can handle the size the brackets would be, but I am pretty certain I can manage it, and I probably could get them printed and start shipping out by the end of the month.
Yes it's tempting to think that you can get the Focals into the existing door but I don't believe it's possible.
First of all they have a much deeper magnet structure, and they're actually larger in terms of their diameter then the existing drivers. Keep in mind that these are really just frankly subwoofers in the front door. They really make no contribution to mid-range at all and they're crossed over very low with an extremely aggressive low pass at the amplifier level.
I'd love to see a replacement for them but the biggest problem frankly with the front speakers is not the acoustic quality of the driver but rather the acoustic quality of the enclosure . . . or the lack thereof. The front door resonates potently in sympathy with the output from these existing woofers. Unless you can solve that problem I think you are probably wasting money on putting expensive drivers in there.
And that's totally aside from the question of whether or not they can fit. Take a look at earlier in the thread where I showed how shallow those woofers are and also how to Dynamat both the area around the woofer and the woofer basket itself. That might pay more dividends for less money.
If you do buy a woofer for that application, make sure you have return privileges if it's not installed because otherwise you may own some expensive drivers you can't use. I do not believe that an 8-inch woofer will fit in that space without essentially a custom bracket of some kind and without modification of the door sleeve itself.
More trouble than it's worth in a lot of ways in other words. If you need more Bass or lower Bass, your best bet is to replace the stock subwoofer and provide separate amplification for it. And that's an Electronics project given that without a special insulating relay, powering the amplifier off the DC / DC converter will throw codes and potentially leave you stranded. Don't bite off more than you can chew in other words. Modifying this car stereo system is not for the technologically inexperienced.
@dfwatt I know you popped onto the other thread dedicated to the bracketing project already, but I really do appreciate your input since you have already done some work on your audio. You are exactly right in what seems to be the biggest issue and I don't know if its possible yet either. I am going to find out though, since I already pulled the stock speaker out! .
I don't know about the resonance issues, and I haven't had any issues I can hear there yet, but I also don't play a lot of bass-heavy music (as I prefer jazz, instrumentals, and vocals), though I do occasionally have fun with a hard hitting song. So perhaps I just haven't pumped them loud enough to hear the resonance issues there. I think you're correct for someone like me especially, who is mostly disappointed with the high range sound and mid range sound anyway, and can't wait to replace the mids and tweeters. I will focus on those, but I intend to see it through and see if the 8" woofers really can fit, all things being ideal, or not.
@dfwatt One more question: Have you messed with the tweeters in any of those vehicles? It seems logical to me to also replace those with something a little brighter (like titanium alloy or silk dome) while I'm at it. If I can get the focals to work for woofers, I will use the bundled focal silk tweeters, but if not, what have you heard in that regard?
@dfwatt One more question: Have you messed with the tweeters in any of those vehicles? It seems logical to me to also replace those with something a little brighter (like titanium alloy or silk dome) while I'm at it. If I can get the focals to work for woofers, I will use the bundled focal silk tweeters, but if not, what have you heard in that regard?
Hardest part will be finding a speaker wire to tap for the line out, since the SR doesn't have the rear amp and easily accessible low-pass speakers (that go to the stock sub in the premium). Your best bet is probably to tap the leads for the front door woofers, at the computer located behind the glove box.Moving my Sundown X12 from an old car to the Model 3 SR base audio... Do I need anything special or is the Model 3 a normal Sub install ? (line out converter+wires+amp+sub and good to go ?)
Hardest part will be finding a speaker wire to tap for the line out, since the SR doesn't have the rear amp and easily accessible low-pass speakers (that go to the stock sub in the premium). Your best bet is probably to tap the leads for the front door woofers, at the computer located behind the glove box.
How is your amp drawing 100A at medium volumes - that sounds insane. Normal listening volumes should be drawing maybe 10-15A at the most. Or are you just blasting a subwoofer like mad?Wanted to share a great blog by a guy named Travis Llado, wherein documents his install experience. He does a graet job of organizing, illustrating and documenting his install steps and issues encountered.
Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 1: Door Insulation
Also QQ for those who have run non OEM amps for a while. Have you had any negative side effects of any kind? I
I've held off my own install primarily due to potential consequences of amp draw. Even with the gains nearly at zero, my setup could draw 100a+ at medium volumes; concerned what the impact would be to the pack and 12v in daily use.
How is your amp drawing 100A at medium volumes - that sounds insane. Normal listening volumes should be drawing maybe 10-15A at the most. Or are you just blasting a subwoofer like mad?
Also did anyone ever find a good installer in the area or a plug and play kit?
11 months later and it is still showing as "coming soon"got my eye on this page at the moment... hoping wishing waiting
https://www.badesignworks.com/model-3
True but it does not hold up well on verticle walls in hot environments from my research, you might also want to double it up to add thickness. The ehat part is why Ill stick to better known brands.
11 months later and it is still showing as "coming soon"
Was curious and looked. Their home page says:Other pages on that site say they are permanently shut down.
Thanks! I’ll give it a shot and report back. What’s the easiest way to pop the speaker grill off?