EDD narrowed a week to 2/28 - 3/4. Then I noticed in the upper left hand corner of the app was the VIN! F381 and I asked the SA to confirm. It's legit with AMD and 12v Li batt! Finally!
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Did you proceed with the trade quote or did you decline? I had the quote the trade but still stuck in TBD. If it doesn't move from TBD in the next day or two I am going to click "I don't want to trade in a vehicle."I got that message last week and received my VIN today!
I picked up my MYLR ON 12/26/21. Pink slip (title) showed up after a month and license plates/reg/tags about a week later.Called the SA today, he said the registration and title takes long these days but no ETA, anyone can share your experience on how long before you got the title / registration?
Managed to have my friend come over to help cut out the screw! With a 10mm plastic plug I found on Amazon (huge shoutout to TMC for guiding me), I was able to replace the screw and install the final mudflap! One last thing for service to have to resolve. Wahoo!Ran into my first issue today, which to some extent was user error, but when trying to install mud flaps on the rear left wheel well (the other side was installed with no issues!), the hex screw on the underside of the bumper somehow loosened the welded nut on the bumper interior, essentially leaving the screw loose and spinning in place. Service scheduled for later this week, but for the time being I'll be rocking 3 mudflapsView attachment 768633View attachment 768634
That's crazy, my M3P is half thatHoly moly!!!!! Why are Tesla MY so expensive to insure!!!!???? I just checked on Geico and its like an additional $1200 per 6 months for our premium??? I've had way more expensive cars and was not this pricey!!!!!
oh wow, I really got lucky getting my mud flaps in OH before I moved to AZManaged to have my friend come over to help cut out the screw! With a 10mm plastic plug I found on Amazon (huge shoutout to TMC for guiding me), I was able to replace the screw and install the final mudflap! One last thing for service to have to resolve. Wahoo!View attachment 770123View attachment 770124
Did you just get the front mud flaps included with your delivery?oh wow, I really got lucky getting my mud flaps in OH before I moved to AZ
I haven't received my car yet but my advisor said that since I live in MN my car will come with front mud flaps and rear PPF.Did you just get the front mud flaps included with your delivery?
Yeah just wanted to confirm front flaps only, as the issue I had is related to aftermarket rear mud flaps, which usually require the unscrewing of the bolt near the rear wheel well. No issues if it's front flaps only!I haven't received my car yet but my advisor said that since I live in MN my car will come with front mud flaps and rear PPF.
Now I hear sometimes we have to make service appts later since they are sold out, we will see, but that is what I have heard and not verified.
Do you have to unscrew the bolt in the rear wheel well? I thought I saw some videos that said it wasn't necessary.Yeah just wanted to confirm front flaps only, as the issue I had is related to aftermarket rear mud flaps, which usually require the unscrewing of the bolt near the rear wheel well. No issues if it's front flaps only!
I have seen some installs where they loosen the bolt in the rar and then cut the plastic that creates the ring/hole for the bolt and then they will slide this underneath the bolt. See below.Do you have to unscrew the bolt in the rear wheel well? I thought I saw some videos that said it wasn't necessary.
I normally don't write a review but i was so satisfied and i also found a simpler way to install these that i just had to share. If you follow my steps you'll be done in less than 20 min.
NOTE: There is a more correct way to install but its more of a hassle and lets face it, if you're like me i just care that it looks good, does its job, and is on tight. The only steps to follow below is for the rear flaps (if you cant install the front on your own you don't deserve a car lol j/k)
The reason i did whats listed below is because on the rear there is a screw which needs to be removed but what ends up happening is the nut on the inside comes loose and you end having to remove the fender cover to hold the bolt on the inside fender wall while you screw. My steps below avoids this hassle and i've attached photos as proof.
Tools: Box cutter, trim remover or flat head will work, #10 size socket and ratchet.
STEPS FOR THE REAR:
1. Loosen screw underneath but DO NOT remove completely. (See 2nd Photo)
2. On the mud flap make one incision with the box cutter on the hole where the bottom screw will go into on the side facing toward the outside of the car. (See 3rd photo)
3. Place mud flap as though to install but angle it toward the tire so it gives you wiggle room on the bottom, insert the short side of the flap hold first and bend the other side over the screw until it slide into place. (See 4th photo)
4. Then the rest is self explanatory. Check out my finished photos to see how it came out for me after following these steps.
On most of the aftermarket options, I'd say yes you have to unscrew the bolt, but I think there's some that don't require unscrewing it. I've also seen some folks who partially unscrewed the bolt, cut an opening in the area that you would thread the screw through the mudflap, and slid the mudflap on before retightening the screw. In essence, it's supposed to be a very gentle process hahaDo you have to unscrew the bolt in the rear wheel well? I thought I saw some videos that said it wasn't necessary.
Didn't see @Firocity's comment before posting my reply, but this is the process I was also alluding to!On most of the aftermarket options, I'd say yes you have to unscrew the bolt, but I think there's some that don't require unscrewing it. I've also seen some folks who partially unscrewed the bolt, cut an opening in the area that you would thread the screw through the mudflap, and slid the mudflap on before retightening the screw. In essence, it's supposed to be a very gentle process haha
I declined because I had already sold my vehicle with CarMax.Did you proceed with the trade quote or did you decline? I had the quote the trade but still stuck in TBD. If it doesn't move from TBD in the next day or two I am going to click "I don't want to trade in a vehicle."
Thanks for the update. Quite the saga and I hope you have a great car. Cars probably traveled through Idaho and picked up the gravel here.Ok. We are getting the first car that got damaged on the transport up to Canada. It is back from the body shop and will be taking delivery on that one tomorrow.
Second car damaged is going to someone else once it gets out of the body shop.
Third car (and 4th and 5th) VIN numbers the system selected for our order have also been redirected to different customers until our SA finally figured out how to put our order on hold to stop it from generating matches to cars in production. I guess a few people with the same config may be getting their cars early if they are already on the truck to our area. I grabbed copies of the mvpa pdf for all the vin numbers that popped up in the account.
So we get about a $2300 discount off the purchase to accept the car that needed repairs.
Unfortunately it's one of the Intel Atom cpu cars. I think it was built Jan 5. But oh well. If they ever offered the infotainment CPU upgrade that $2500 could help pay for it. (Could also just order another model Y at this point and sell this one and probably be ahead at the end of the day given the market)
I'm also looking on the positive side for having a car that already got a fresh paint job and full bodywork check by the local bodyshop. Probably better gaps and paint quality than the original factory job if they already went through it in the shop.
So quick review so you don't have to remember the previous stuff
Middle of Jan original car delivery appt. They called to report the car was damaged in transit
End of Jan a second car was due to arrive which was matched to our order by the system. We had the option at that point to either wait for the first one to be fixed or take the second car and we tentatively said we would take the first one available which would be the second car. But a few days before it was going to be available they called again to report it was also damaged in transit and going to the same body shop.
Meanwhile the system just kept generating VIN numbers and delivery appointments after the next car was sent for repairs. I have seen 3 more VIN numbers in the account with full paperwork sometimes with an appointment time.
Finally they figured out how to mark our order as being on hold. I had the "I'm ready" button showing for a bit which I guess finally stopped it from assigning cars to us. Not sure of the location or status of any of those 3 cars. I suspect at least one of them is on a truck heading our way but will be matched to another order. Lets just assume at this point the body shop will see all 5 cars if they get sent up here.
Now that the original car is back in inventory and matched to our order it shows the correct VIN and mvpa documents along with our delivery appointment. mvpa agreement shows "price adjustment" on line B. With sales taxes that saves a bit over $2400.
SA says we cannot swap out our order for the second car that was sent as it has now been matched to another customer. (Was hoping if ours has Intel we could just swap but that isn't possible now). We could reject this delivery and hope another car comes with AMD cpu and does not get damaged on the transport. We would not get the $2400 discount and if it had Intel then rejecting a second time would also mean we wouldn't get that August order pricing.
So tomorrow have to get to the bank to fix the draft amount, get the insurance company to reactivate the insurance we had arranged the first time we thought this car was going to be delivered and we can get our new car.
nf3571xx = our first car we will be taking
nf3663xx = second car sent and also damaged. Now matched to a different local customer.
nf3696xx = third vin
nf3743xx = fourth vin
nf3845xx = fifth vin
So. Tesla should consider paying extra for enclosed car transport to Canada in winter. Gravel is all over the roads here for traction.
They should be able to look up the 3rd through 5th VINs and see if they are Intel or AMD. They won't let you pick from the lot, or all have Intel. My apologies for the roller coaster.Ok. We are getting the first car that got damaged on the transport up to Canada. It is back from the body shop and will be taking delivery on that one tomorrow.
Second car damaged is going to someone else once it gets out of the body shop.
Third car (and 4th and 5th) VIN numbers the system selected for our order have also been redirected to different customers until our SA finally figured out how to put our order on hold to stop it from generating matches to cars in production. I guess a few people with the same config may be getting their cars early if they are already on the truck to our area. I grabbed copies of the mvpa pdf for all the vin numbers that popped up in the account.
So we get about a $2300 discount off the purchase to accept the car that needed repairs.
Unfortunately it's one of the Intel Atom cpu cars. I think it was built Jan 5. But oh well. If they ever offered the infotainment CPU upgrade that $2500 could help pay for it. (Could also just order another model Y at this point and sell this one and probably be ahead at the end of the day given the market)
I'm also looking on the positive side for having a car that already got a fresh paint job and full bodywork check by the local bodyshop. Probably better gaps and paint quality than the original factory job if they already went through it in the shop.
So quick review so you don't have to remember the previous stuff
Middle of Jan original car delivery appt. They called to report the car was damaged in transit
End of Jan a second car was due to arrive which was matched to our order by the system. We had the option at that point to either wait for the first one to be fixed or take the second car and we tentatively said we would take the first one available which would be the second car. But a few days before it was going to be available they called again to report it was also damaged in transit and going to the same body shop.
Meanwhile the system just kept generating VIN numbers and delivery appointments after the next car was sent for repairs. I have seen 3 more VIN numbers in the account with full paperwork sometimes with an appointment time.
Finally they figured out how to mark our order as being on hold. I had the "I'm ready" button showing for a bit which I guess finally stopped it from assigning cars to us. Not sure of the location or status of any of those 3 cars. I suspect at least one of them is on a truck heading our way but will be matched to another order. Lets just assume at this point the body shop will see all 5 cars if they get sent up here.
Now that the original car is back in inventory and matched to our order it shows the correct VIN and mvpa documents along with our delivery appointment. mvpa agreement shows "price adjustment" on line B. With sales taxes that saves a bit over $2400.
SA says we cannot swap out our order for the second car that was sent as it has now been matched to another customer. (Was hoping if ours has Intel we could just swap but that isn't possible now). We could reject this delivery and hope another car comes with AMD cpu and does not get damaged on the transport. We would not get the $2400 discount and if it had Intel then rejecting a second time would also mean we wouldn't get that August order pricing.
So tomorrow have to get to the bank to fix the draft amount, get the insurance company to reactivate the insurance we had arranged the first time we thought this car was going to be delivered and we can get our new car.
nf3571xx = our first car we will be taking
nf3663xx = second car sent and also damaged. Now matched to a different local customer.
nf3696xx = third vin
nf3743xx = fourth vin
nf3845xx = fifth vin
So. Tesla should consider paying extra for enclosed car transport to Canada in winter. Gravel is all over the roads here for traction.