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Autocross- SCCA EV-X Class vs. SS

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Lots of wheel swapping at the events still happening. Daddio was swapping in between runs this past sunday, trying different mnfr tires front vs rear and every combination trying to find that "edge".

Basically changing from hoosier to 200tw appeased the bottom rung of the ladder, and made it more expensive for those who were at the pointy end of the stick. History has proven that.

Regardless, I don't think that the Tessa should be in SS, and at minimum AS, but there are a LOT of people scared of the car, so I don't think it will move. Some of that fear is justified, but most of it is EV hate/misunderstanding.

People will always spend as much money and effort as they have at the pointy end. At least you could opt not to swap tires between runs and still compete with Daddio....if you somehow had the talent.
 
People will always spend as much money and effort as they have at the pointy end. At least you could opt not to swap tires between runs and still compete with Daddio....if you somehow had the talent.
I have beat him before, and will do it again... eventually. 🙏🤞

I am lucky to have him as a friend, and value his opinion. I was bouncing setup ideas off him Sunday, and i feel like I am going in the right direction. He has not driven a M3P yet, and I tried to get him in my car, but logistics were not on our side the past few events.

I am guessing he will prob drive it after Nats week is done. I will report here on what his thoughts of it are.

Fyi, two events in a row (boston and jersey) I was 3 sec of Salerno in his personal 2022 GT4. Granted my car does not have shocks or a bar, but even still that is a friggin eternity.
 
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You cut a 265-35-19 tire on stock suspension?
Full bump at turn-in?
What's your wheel offset and did you also run a spacer?
Dang, I guess we gotta stop recommending tires that wide (or wider) to people on stock suspension.
Correct, car is stock save for 19x9 +30 (+35 w/ 5mm spacer) & 265/35-19 RT 660. The tire was skinned on the very outer edge from the fender lip. Had to be from a bump while turning.

I also ripped apart a mudflap and no cones were hit. Had to be a different bump.

Not sure if it should not be recommended, but if your lots have bumps, it should be a warning at least. 👍
 
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I care less about the classes. I think it's pretty awesome they give us EV-X, which seems to have a quite reasonable set of allowed mods that fix the deficits of the Model 3 platform at least without breaking the car as a usable daily driver.

What annoys me is that the EV pax is .835 (vs .830 for SS), and the fact it moved from .826 to .835 between 2021 and 2022. That's well after they are worried about software updates suddenly making massive changes. I would really love to know what events they used to set this PAX- given I never see the EV's be this dominant in raw time against SS cars. I'm guessing one way it ends up like this if any wet times are counted. I'll run right next to SS cars in the dry, and then beat them by 3 seconds in the wet. Don't envy anyone trying to create PAX either, but I would love to know how it's set to find these events where EV's are setting the highest raw times for streetable cars.

If we all think the car should be an AS car when completely stock, there's no way some camber and springs moves you from a .821 to a .835 PAX.

@Rodney! - If you're so focused on Hoosiers, why not run in SSR?
 
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Here is some useful info on the RT660 tread splice separation.

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Going to go research re71rs now...
All 275+ wide 18 and 19" sizes on tirerack are backordered.

I got this reply from TR today:
What is shown in the photos is called “visible tread splice”. During the manufacturing phase, before the tire goes into the mold to cure and get its final shape, a wide sheet of uncured tread rubber is wrapped around the tire casing above the steel belts. There is a beveled junction where the ends of that sheet meet, which becomes invisible as the tire cures in the mold. Sometimes, braking force or torque and/or wheelspin from acceleration can put enough stress on this junction to cause it to become visible as a faint line that runs across part or all of the tread area. Proper tire rotation will prevent it from getting deeper, but if left in the same wheel position it will likely grow further, eventually tearing open to the point the tire must be replaced. Usually, after rotating away from the wheel position where the splice first became visible, the splice will eventually disappear as the tire continues to wear from use.



This isn’t technically warrantable, but we can submit as good will return.

I should probably take it immediately and just buy the last set of Yoks, even though they are kinda narrow for 10.5 wheels.