-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Avoid charge cycles?
- Thread starter Brolan
- Start date
Follow the recommendations on the Model 3 battery and charging sticky posts, it's discussed plenty there. Don't misinterpret "charging cycle". That relates to the equivalent of a full 0-100% charge, not necessarily in a single go. It's not the amount of times you've plugged the charger.
And I charge mine when it drops to 40% ish back to 80%. i use the Mobile connector in my garage 240VAC outlet. I also drove it Coast to Coast exclusively with Supercharger starting SOC in the 7-10% range up to 75% to 90%. That trip was around 900 miles per day and nothing but Supercharging for the entire trip. Tesla battery management will take care of the battery so you don't have to think about it. The only thing I do not do is charge it to 100% (I did once when it was brand new and before I realized it is not necessary) or let it discharge to zero.
Terpslax
Member
Just of late my 100% charge has become 294 (MYP). I did change tires (to Mich AS 21’s) but does that effect the displayed range? I was thinking it might effect real range but I’m concerned the displayed range has declined by 9 miles and it only has 2k miles on the car. is it winter? Tires? Battery degradation? Or should I take it below 10% and back up to 100%? I have seen that recommended.
I typically charge to 90% and probably do that 3-4 times a week. The lowest I have gotten to is 30%.
I typically charge to 90% and probably do that 3-4 times a week. The lowest I have gotten to is 30%.
Yes I believe changing wheel configuration can change the range estimate. I believe the message in that setting indicates that.
Helping the bms to recalibrate is pretty much completely in opposition to the general charging rules. It's not like you're going to break your car or anything but it might not be something you do every week, if degradation stresses you.
Helping the bms to recalibrate is pretty much completely in opposition to the general charging rules. It's not like you're going to break your car or anything but it might not be something you do every week, if degradation stresses you.
Terpslax
Member
So, I didn’t change wheels; I still have the Uber’s I just changed tires. Does that effect displayed range?
As for the 10-100% thing, I had read if you do that a couple times a year it’s good for the battery? Wrong/ right, I have no idea; anyone try it?
As for the 10-100% thing, I had read if you do that a couple times a year it’s good for the battery? Wrong/ right, I have no idea; anyone try it?
I'll just highlight that reading the manual, as noted here, will answer a ton of questions on this topic. There are a lot of posts here that could be resolved with a little research into that wonderful resource...!
And welcome to the Tesla community! I hope you enjoy the car!
When the vehicle is new the Tesla Model Y's battery management system does not have many data points available to estimate the state of charge of the battery. It helps with estimation if the battery charge is allowed, on occassion, to reach above 90% (up to 95%) and also dip to 30% or slightly lower before charging.
Another function that the BMS will occasionally need to perform is to measure the open cell voltage (OCV) of the cells within the battery pack. To measure the OCV the battery pack must disconnect electrically from the Tesla vehicle. This happens when the Tesla Model Y enters sleep mode, however if you leave Sentry Mode or Summon (a FSD feature) active the Tesla vehicle will not enter sleep mode. You can set Sentry mode to always be set to Off at your home location. This saves power by enabling the Tesla Model Y to enter sleep mode. The BMS can then measure the OCV as needed.
Terpslax
Member
Is it possible that the change 303 to 293 is attributed to the change in temp? It seems to be pretty recent
I'll quote from where I've mentioned this before. No, it's not good for the battery. It's good for the accuracy of the software's energy estimation algorithm, but is actually a little worse for the battery.
New owners are always wanting these two things at the same time, which just can't happen, because they are opposite, conflicting goals.
Treat the battery the nicest.
Have the most accurate battery reading.
You don't get to have both at the same time. The healthiest thing for the battery is small charge/discharge cycles in the middle of the state of charge. But that is also what is giving the least information for the car to read the state of the amount of energy in the battery, so the estimate is going to get fuzzy.
This is a really good point - the inherent conflict in these 2 goals. And new owners, myself included, are typically more concerned about the accurate battery reading (read: the most range). After a time, most realize that the range accuracy is the lesser of the two as it really doesn't matter. On my road trips, using the Tesla nav, it so infrequently runs the battery down to the teens or even the low 20's % before telling me to stop and charge, that the max range doesn't really come into play.
Ugg, sorry to be "that guy" but the expression is "jibes with". Jive is a type of music or meaningless chatter (or a song...1958 Johnny Otis 'Hand JIve'). But since you probably won't read this post, it is a mute point....
Oh, no, I definitely appreciate that. It's an expression I use pretty infrequently, so I do forget and mix that one up. Thanks.Ugg, sorry to be "that guy" but the expression is "jibes with". Jive is a type of music or meaningless chatter (or a song...1958 Johnny Otis 'Hand JIve'). But since you probably won't read this post, it is a mute point....
No_ICE
Member
Could be temp but more likely your driving habits. Lead foot=less miles available.
No, that can't be it. Tesla does not use your personal driving history/efficiency to readjust that rated miles number in the battery display unlike all other brands of electric cars.
No_ICE
Member
Any car you drive with your foot on the fast pedal all the way down will get fewer miles per unit of energy. If I run my Lexus hard I get less expected miles at fill up on the info screen. Same for the Tesla. Look at the energy usage graph in your MY and see where you can improve.
You're not getting it, and that is totally irrelevant. Someone is asking about why the number on the display shows 293 when full instead of 303 that they used to get. That is a number called "rated miles" and does not figure in someone's personal driving style. And none of that has to do with how much actual distance someone will eventually be able to drive, which is what you are referring to.
Similar threads
