f8K37Sq31
Former Vendor
Just to clarify: you are referring to uninstalling "EV Watch" app and not "Stats for Tesla" app, right?Holy *sugar* bro.
Thanks.
App is uninstalled.
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Just to clarify: you are referring to uninstalling "EV Watch" app and not "Stats for Tesla" app, right?Holy *sugar* bro.
Thanks.
App is uninstalled.
Just to clarify: you are referring to uninstalling "EV Watch" app and not "Stats for Tesla" app, right?
In terms of promoting i posted earlier i had bad phantom drain and removed the app and re-installed. I can report it's still going strong. i don't know what happened that day. i really like this app. can we export the data for use in a spreadsheet?Haha of course buddy. I’m still promoting your app. I hope you’ve seen an uptick in downloads.
Glad that you've determined that my app (Stats for Tesla) is not the culprit.
I don't even think seat heaters turn on if someone is not sitting on the seat (please correct me if I am wrong).
Thanks for not blasting me and Stats appMy first reaction was to come here and blast you about it but I decided to diagnose a bit and remove the least used app which was EV Watch to determine if it was Stats or EVWatch (I installed both the same day). Turned out EV Watch didn't allow the car to sleep and having the battery status on my Apple Watch just wasn't worth the range loss I was seeing.
That’s pretty cool. I didn’t know that. This is why I love Tesla.If the seat heaters were on when you left the car, they will come back on (and the same levels) when the car is turned back on even if you're not in the vehicle. For instance Stats turns on the climate in my car and set it to 73 at 7:15am, the car is nice and warm by the time I leave for work and the seat heaters are also on the same way I left them.
Thanks for not blasting me and Stats app
I’m surprised that EV Watch prevent the car from sleeping. I’ve been using the app for a while and my phantom drain is around 0.2mph. I suggest letting the author of EV Watch app know (there is a feedback button in the app).
Thanks for using the app.
The app does not run in the background continuously, so it can't know when exactly the charge occurred.
This is what I do: I charge the car almost always when the rate is the lowest (after midnight for us in SoCal). That's the rate that I enter in the app for cost of energy.
Hope this helps.
That makes sense because in addition to the time of usage, there is also a tiered cost structure. Here in San Diego, the power company has more than 10 different plans which makes it extremely confusing to know the true cost of energy. Your method should give something that is very close to the true cost of energy. Thanks for sharing the method.I was going to do that, too, but I realized the relevant rate for me is not the TOU rate, but really the overall price / kwh over the course of my entire billing period. So, I just look at total energy used for the entire billing period, and divide that into *total* electric bill amount on the invoice. This means, though I always charge at night, when I get an $.11/kwh rate, my average rate on my more recent bills is $.20/kwh over the entire billing period. So I use $.20/kwh, since that is the true proportionate rate that I get over the course of a monthly billing period.
I think this is a better way to look at it, since using TOU billing means that your paying more for "peak" usage, that may not otherwise be peak, if you weren't on TOU. So, by using the average $/kwh over the course of a month, I get a more realistic idea of how much an average kwh is really costing me, over the course of a billing period.
That makes sense because in addition to the time of usage, there is also a tiered cost structure. Here in San Diego, the power company has more than 10 different plans which makes it extremely confusing to know the true cost of energy. Your method should give something that is very close to the true cost of energy. Thanks for sharing the method.
I was going to do that, too, but I realized the relevant rate for me is not the TOU rate, but really the overall price / kwh over the course of my entire billing period. So, I just look at total energy used for the entire billing period, and divide that into *total* electric bill amount on the invoice. This means, though I always charge at night, when I get an $.11/kwh rate, my average rate on my more recent bills is $.20/kwh over the entire billing period. So I use $.20/kwh, since that is the true proportionate rate that I get over the course of a monthly billing period.
I think this is a better way to look at it, since using TOU billing means that your paying more for "peak" usage, that may not otherwise be peak, if you weren't on TOU. So, by using the average $/kwh over the course of a month, I get a more realistic idea of how much an average kwh is really costing me, over the course of a billing period.
If you need to get information related to your car, the car needs to be woken up. So, if you open the app, it needs to wake up the car. The same is true about Tesla app.I just purchased the app. I noticed that whenever I open the app it makes a connection with the Tesla servers or something like that. My Tesla widget then changes state from sleep to parked. Would I be correct to assume that every time I open the app it wakes the car? I don't want to cause phantom drain so does this mean I need to sync my viewing of the app with being in the car?
Please see the first Q&A in this FAQ (also included in the app): https://www.maadotaa.com/faq-1how is efficiency defined/calculated?
Already been discussed why it uses UN/PW instead of tokens.You want to avoid an app that stores your password either on or off device. Apps should only hold onto OAuth tokens.