Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Back to VIR with Two 3's - MPP BBK - Prototype Radiator

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Don't know either. Curious to know what the "thermal dispersant" coating is made of? My variables were about evaporative cooling, which is a different process from just regular thermal air cooling.

I have absolutely no clue what it is, The extent of my understanding of it was that people beating us had it, so we needed to get it. This is the company that used to do it for us, there may be a little bit of information on the website. https://www.hmelliottcoatings.com/

Most of the companies that work in that area in North Carolina they focus on NASCAR systems and a lot of the coding companies all do the same stuff I don't know if there's any variations in the type of coding to use but there's a ton of people in that area that actually offer the same thing they sell as thermal dispersants or other types of coatings.
 
Love your write ups.

I hope that Tesla recognizes you value as a brand ambassador.

I’m waffling on getting a Model 3 Performance, but your vids are pushing me to just place my order.
I hope they do too, I could use the support haha! Go for it, you won't regret it.

I pick up my new Model 3 Perf on Saturday 10/10/20!

My BMW M2 is going the way of the dodo.

When motor heads like me are buying electric cars for their performance value. . . the ICE’s days are truly numbered.
 
I pick up my new Model 3 Perf on Saturday 10/10/20!

My BMW M2 is going the way of the dodo.

When motor heads like me are buying electric cars for their performance value. . . the ICE’s days are truly numbered.
M2 is a lovely car. That was my ride before Model 3. You would want to beef up a suspension on Model 3.
 
If you have access to the oil loop inside the car, the most simple thing you can do is add capacity. That’s the first step for most ICE cars that go to the track (certainly was in my car via an oil pan spacer and a larger oil filter). While this isn’t the end all be all solution, having more oil in the system will allow more heat to be absorbed into the oil. Simple thermal mass. If using a spacer of some sort isn’t possible (Or isn’t sufficient) and I will fully admit that I’m not up on the finer points of Tesla oil/lubrication systems...but if you can find a place for a gallon water tank in the car then having a smaller remote oil reservoir should be doable instead. Like having an additional oil cooler (which also increases oil capacity), access to the reservoir could be thermostatically controlled for folks in cooler areas.

As far as using a liquid spray system...I would be careful about that. Tracks get very twitchy if they seem any kind of fluid coming out of a car and if you’re spraying water and it doesn’t evaporate off the cooler, you could get black flagged by an observant corner worker. We’re not supposed to run A/C on the track for the same reason...dropping water.

Anyway...MasterC17...I was one of the grid Marshall’s at VIR the other weekend. Your performance out there made me take a closer look at the Model 3 and I’m looking at ordering a Performance in the near future.
 
@MasterC17 I read all your posts with great interest. Your observations and real world data are invaluable.

My car loses power tremendously when “battery temperature” gets near 100% (from the track mode data log). Sometimes this happens after only a few laps and is, by far, the most serious problem I have encountered tracking the model 3. Since the solution to the problem depends critically on whether the problem is battery, or inverter, or motor temperature, could you please please elaborate on how you conclude that “ battery temperature” is actually something else. You probably have access to CAN bus or other information that I don’t have. I am very interested in any details you could share. Thanks.
 
@MasterC17 I read all your posts with great interest. Your observations and real world data are invaluable.

My car loses power tremendously when “battery temperature” gets near 100% (from the track mode data log). Sometimes this happens after only a few laps and is, by far, the most serious problem I have encountered tracking the model 3. Since the solution to the problem depends critically on whether the problem is battery, or inverter, or motor temperature, could you please please elaborate on how you conclude that “ battery temperature” is actually something else. You probably have access to CAN bus or other information that I don’t have. I am very interested in any details you could share. Thanks.

Yes, I have dozens of log sets from the Scan My Tesla app (CAN data) and it is consistent and clear that the battery is not overheating. In fact, battery temperature sometimes will get cooler the later into a session you go. Additionally, battery temperatures are considerably less on-track than while Supercharging the vehicle.

On the flip-side, the drive unit oil temperature climbs continuously, and correlates with the power reduction.
 
Thanks! Fascinating! Is the “inverter temperature” actually that or is it something else, too? Fascinating — and disappointing on several levels. Why on earth would Tesla label that data “battery temperature”? And, with the plaid model S, I thought the lower internal resistance of the tabless batteries (that I think will be in that model) was the solution to the temperature problem. But, if battery temperature is not the problem then tabless batteries are not the solution.


Thanks again, and please keep us informed of anything you discover that will help!
 
Thanks! Fascinating! Is the “inverter temperature” actually that or is it something else, too? Fascinating — and disappointing on several levels. Why on earth would Tesla label that data “battery temperature”? And, with the plaid model S, I thought the lower internal resistance of the tabless batteries (that I think will be in that model) was the solution to the temperature problem. But, if battery temperature is not the problem then tabless batteries are not the solution.


Thanks again, and please keep us informed of anything you discover that will help!
Tabless is just slightly lower internal resistance. Because if it wasn't tabless at that size it would be much higher resistance. So it's mostly built for weight and cost purpose. They don't chase just power. It's not like there are no chemistries 20x higher power than Tesla. But range, cost and longevity suffers with higher power cells way too much.

Increased cooling impacts cost and range. What we have in Model 3 is already enough for 99.9% of consumers. Doesn't make sense to ask everyone to pay for that 0.1% of consumers. Making separate hw also puts costs on everyone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MasterC17
Yes, I have dozens of log sets from the Scan My Tesla app (CAN data) and it is consistent and clear that the battery is not overheating. In fact, battery temperature sometimes will get cooler the later into a session you go. Additionally, battery temperatures are considerably less on-track than while Supercharging the vehicle.

On the flip-side, the drive unit oil temperature climbs continuously, and correlates with the power reduction.
Is it possible that SMT has a mistake in temp sensor names? It happened before.