Wow you are brave as I hear they are spot welded to a fusing wire at both ends. Way above my skill level.Hallo all
I am looking for a replacement cell to install inside bad sectors in a sheet .
I have found this style . CGR18650CG 2250mAh 3.7V li-ion battery 10A
do some one know the correct spec.inside a 2.0 ess sheet??
yes I know all this I have made 5 bricked roadsters come to life and I have 3 more waiting .if the the cells can be replaced (if there are maby up to 5-6 bad in a cellblock ) I think it can be done. but I am looking into installing model 3 cells inside a new design battery box and just use the same amount of KW to foul the car .but the problem are the shipping of cells from USA to me in DK we do not have damaged model 3 here for now.It’s not just the cells next to them, but the coolant system encapsulated in the adhesive. Also the cells are not wrapped so the only feasible way I can see is disconnect and isolate the cell, drain it fully, drain it some more. Slowly and very carefully bore the cell out the brick replace a similar cell charged to the same as the rest of the brick and you can replace a fusible link easily enough. The question remains is how much room will you have before you hit the coolant passage, if you can strip the can and then ream the case away that may work.
There's more to it than that. The discharge curve is very different so the capacity measurements won't work. The Model 3 cells also discharge to a much lower voltage in order to get their full ah capacity. I also doubt you could fit 11 sheets of longer cells. I don't want to discourage anybody... It might still be worth a try.Thats exactly been my thought process, as long as you don't go over the bricks mah there's no reason for the car to get upset.
HeyThere's more to it than that. The discharge curve is very different so the capacity measurements won't work. The Model 3 cells also discharge to a much lower voltage in order to get their full ah capacity. I also doubt you could fit 11 sheets of longer cells. I don't want to discourage anybody... It might still be worth a try.
Hallo StefanIf i can get a drawing with all measurements of the sheet can i try to pack the cells in solidworks
or better a 3d model of it
hey yes the 2 screws under the alu bar need to come of as well .remember the plugs for the bmb print cards .sometimes it is the rubber boot for the cooling tubes.(just a good idea for you .the best way to not spill cooling fluid inside the box.install small rubber blind plugs on cooling fluid tubes like the ones from brake bleed screws) there are a water level sensor print in the back of the box and it will make a fault with just one drop of cooling fluid and car will not charge.What holds the sheet in the case other than the screws? The one sheet I’m trying to remove is loose but something else seams to be holding it in yet?
Do you need to remove the alum crossmember from the bottom of the case?