Battery Consumption

[tdisonedrive]

In my first month of a drive, I have driven 1400 miles. I drive in DC Metro traffic every day in this Nov-Dec Cold Weather. I noticed that my average power consumption has been 330 KWh/m. I drive about 22 miles one way and 50 miles round trip in a day with average time on road being about 50-65 min and heater set at 69 F.

Would like to understand hows your experience been? What is your average consumption? I believe 330KWh/m is too high, any ideas how can I reduce the battery consumption and get better-rated miles.

Thanks

 

[Tslrsx]

Short trips in cold weather gives high consumption (the interior and battery need to get heated ). When driving longer distances the overall consumption Will drop.

 

[derotam]

I am also in the DC Metro area and I think my drive is similar and different enough to compare. I drive 30 miles one way in 45 minutes in the morning and the same 30 miles(reversed) in an hour in the afternoon. It looks like you have more stop and go/slower speeds than me. This morning I got about 260Wh/mile, climate set to 67 with recirculate and AC on(Auto mode + recirculate) The first part of my drive which is slower speeds with some stop lights I was getting just over 300Wh/mile.

Your numbers seem very normal to me. You having slower speeds and/or more stops means even if you have the same heat settings as me, you are using MORE heat because of the longer drive time. That combined with the fact that you are driving 8 miles less distance than me means you will have a higher Wh/mile just because of heating.

To get better rated efficiency without freezing you out may I suggest the following...kind of in order...
1. Pre-heat your car from the app before you leave in the morning, maybe set it for 1 degree warmer than your driving temp and just back it down when you get in the car(this heating won't affect your rated efficiency and when you turn it down 1 degree, the AC won't turn on enough to cool the car down that 1 degree, though the compressor may kick on for humidity control.

2. Turn down your temp to 67 and turn your seat heater on to low/mid(I use low) In the winter I personally wear a fleece beenie because I don't have much hair anymore. I wan't to be comfortable and I don't like being cold so I don't set the temp too low.

3. Try to use some hypermiling skills...I am not going to go so far to piss of the people behind me but I am very cognizant of what the traffic is doing in front of the car directly in front of me. EAP is not always the most efficient in slow and go traffic as people tend to slow down too much too fast and autopilot will do the same because of the car in front. In slow and go I usually use my foot to coast(no regen no acceleration) to even out the acceleration/deceleration but obviously paying attention to closing distance. When coming up to stop lights I disengage autopilot(if you are using it in against what the manual says...disclaimer) and "coast" up to it "normally". Again I am not going to take 1000 feet to slowly coast to a stop and upset the people behind me.

Anyway I think those are my big suggestions...Your current Wh/m does seem reasonable for your scenario.

 

[Kirby64]

OP did not mention what car he's driving either... if this is a AWD with 19" or a PAWD, then 330Wh/mi with the cold and shortish trips definitely seems normal. I think people have noted the reference consumption for AWD (65mph) is something like 260-280Wh/mi with 19" wheels? Am I wrong?

 

[tdisonedrive]

OP did not mention what car he's driving either... if this is a AWD with 19" or a PAWD, then 330Wh/mi with the cold and shortish trips definitely seems normal. I think people have noted the reference consumption for AWD (65mph) is something like 260-280Wh/mi with 19" wheels? Am I wrong?

I drive, Model 3 LR AWD 18" wheels

 

[derotam]

OP did not mention what car he's driving either... if this is a AWD with 19" or a PAWD, then 330Wh/mi with the cold and shortish trips definitely seems normal. I think people have noted the reference consumption for AWD (65mph) is something like 260-280Wh/mi with 19" wheels? Am I wrong?

Yeah I started thinking about what version he was using but he provided enough scenario data that it didn't really matter.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

We should have some sort of “sticky” driving tutorial!

Above advice is good.
In addition, for baseline “best” result:

1) Don’t use the friction brakes unless going less than 5mph (final stop). Don’t crash though.
2) Don’t use regen (use the green/black bar to understand)!!!
3) Don’t use EAP.
4) Don’t use cabin heat (seat heater ok)
5) Don’t drive over hills (even if net elevation gain is zero!). Pick flattest route.
6) Don’t drive in rain or snow.
7) Don’t drive in cold air, the air is thicker.
8) Don’t drive above 65 (maybe 45 is more optimal but might be even slower).
9) Don’t drive the P3D+ (Don’t drive with performance tires)
10) Drive the RWD.
11) Ensure tires are about at the recommended cold inflation pressures on the driver B pillar.

RWD > AWD/P3D stealth > P3D+ (Stock) in terms of achievable efficiency

 

[derotam]

Ok well after reading all the ones after #4 you might as well add, Don't drive at all. Walk or get a bike.

You should differentiate between things people most likely can control as the "advise" for efficiency, vs things that will negatively affect efficiency.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Ok well after reading all the ones after #4 you might as well add, Don't drive at all. Walk or get a bike.

You should differentiate between things people most likely can control as the "advise" for efficiency, vs things that will negatively affect efficiency.

True. But if a driver wants to know if their car is “normal” (it is!) they may be able to pick a controlled drive and do most but not all of these things. Sometimes people are not aware they make a big difference.

 

[Kirby64]

I drive, Model 3 LR AWD 18" wheels

Sounds pretty normal if you aren't preheating the car and the weather is in the 30s to 40s. Do you keep your car garaged or is it left outside? I can say that leaving my car outside and cold soaked I end up using >300Wh/mi when I first start driving in the morning, and that's only in 40s to 50s weather. Also lots of stop and go (which it sounds like there is, given you're moving 22mi in 50-65min) also hurt efficiency.

I'd echo what others are saying: preheat the car maybe ~10-15 minutes before you leave for the day and you should see consumption drop a lot I bet. As long as it's plugged in you'll just use shore power anyways. Also try to avoid the stop light drag races

 

[mzairboy]

Here is some info for reference. I own an AWD Long Range with 19" wheels.

On Sunday we completed a 162 mile round trip in 38 degree weather, light rain, at 75mph on the turnpike. Heater set to 69 with a fan speed of 3. We had 4 people in the car, and started at 99% battery, with the battery warm. When we arrived at the destination we parked for 2 hours. Battery was still warmish when we started on our way home again. We averaged 353 wh/mile and while we only drove 162 actual miles, we used 258 rated miles and arrived home at 14% battery. I was a little surprised at the consumption, but I knew the cold, higher speed, and weather would take its toll on the range. I used a better route planner before we left and it estimated we would return at 20% battery, but I also only plugged in an estimate of 325 wh/mile in the calculator.

Today my wife drove 33 miles to work, on dry roads, at about 55mph, starting on a medium temp (50ish degree in the garage) battery and it is 36 degrees outside. Heater set at 74 with fan speed of 3. She had a 283 wh/mile consumption this morning.

Total for the month of December so far we drove 915 miles with an average outdoor temp of 35 degrees and a 325 wh/mile average.

 

[StealthP3D]

Would like to understand hows your experience been? What is your average consumption? I believe 330KWh/m is too high, any ideas how can I reduce the battery consumption and get better-rated miles.

Thanks

I probably wouldn't worry about getting the equivalent of 90 MPG in a car that can do a 4.5 second 0-60 mph!

 

[Phrixotrichus]

I probably wouldn't worry about getting the equivalent of 90 MPG in a car that can do a 4.5 second 0-60 mph!

If one of that car`s main salepoints is the "efficiency" of the tech you probably should though.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

The best part is you can go 0-60 in 3.3 seconds with 1 foot rollout and still basically get 250Wh/mi if you have P3D Stealth. Just can't slow down fast. Accelerating quickly of course impacts efficiency just a little but it's not the dominant factor.

 

[StealthP3D]

If one of that car`s main salepoints is the "efficiency" of the tech you probably should though.

No other electric car in the same price range can accelerate as fast and have the same efficiency under those conditions (heating the cabin in cold weather). So I'm not sure why anyone would be concerned about 90 MPG equivalent in those conditions. Especially considering the performance offered.

The Model 3 is an amazingly efficient and capable EV, even in the cold. But some people like to quote specific unfavorable circumstances and act like the Model 3 is mediocre or worse. It's not, it stands out above every other comparable offering (to the degree that there really is nothing else very comparable).

 

[StealthP3D]

The best part is you can go 0-60 in 3.3 seconds with 1 foot rollout and still basically get 250Wh/mi if you have P3D Stealth. Just can't slow down fast.

Even the lowly Stealth P3D can haul itself down to zero nearly with the best of them if you put some sticky rubber on it. The base level brakes only show their weakness with consecutive hard braking like you would see on a racing circuit (or very illegal driving on public roads). And the published braking numbers only look mediocre due to the low rolling resistance all season radials. Simple physics.

Too much hay is thrown about regarding the "weak" base brakes, particularly if you leave regen on "Standard".

Accelerating quickly of course impacts efficiency just a little but it's not the dominant factor.

That is more true on the LR Model 3 on which efficiency is not very impacted by hard accellerations (assuming it's followed by coasting or maintain speed, not regen braking or (worse) friction braking. However, since we have both the LR and the P3D I can compare the two. Hard acceleration on the AWD models affects efficiency much more noticeably. I imagine that's because it puts the less efficent front motor to heavy use. Also, the P3D accelerates so ferociously you really can't do it for very long without NEEDING to use braking in most situations.

I

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Even the lowly Stealth P3D can haul itself down to zero nearly with the best of them if you put some sticky rubber on it. The base level brakes only show their weakness with consecutive hard braking like you would see on a racing circuit (or very illegal driving on public roads). And the published braking numbers only look mediocre due to the low rolling resistance all season radials. Simple physics.

Too much hay is thrown about regarding the "weak" base brakes, particularly if you leave regen on "Standard".



That is more true on the LR Model 3 on which efficiency is not very impacted by hard accellerations (assuming it's followed by coasting or maintain speed, not regen braking or (worse) friction braking. However, since we have both the LR and the P3D I can compare the two. Hard acceleration on the AWD models affects efficiency much more noticeably. I imagine that's because it puts the less efficent front motor to heavy use. Also, the P3D accelerates so ferociously you really can't do it for very long without NEEDING to use braking in most situations.

I

Yeah I was only talking about stopping fast in the context of efficiency. The P3D (or any car for the most part) stops as fast or slow as the tires it is equipped with.

Agreed on the efficiency losses on hard acceleration. But they’re small relative to other losses I think. Like heating.

 

[Phrixotrichus]

No other electric car in the same price range can accelerate as fast and have the same efficiency under those conditions (heating the cabin in cold weather). So I'm not sure why anyone would be concerned about 90 MPG equivalent in those conditions. Especially considering the performance offered.

Well, you already made your choice, so It probably doesn`t matter anymore for you. But there`s still enough people contemplating the choice between ICE and EV in general.
When the first reports about cold weather power consumption for the model 3 rolled in the "fuel" cost calculation for my personal driving profile pretty much plummeted all the way down to LPG-ICE level.

 

[StealthP3D]

Well, you already made your choice, so It probably doesn`t matter anymore for you. But there`s still enough people contemplating the choice between ICE and EV in general.
When the first reports about cold weather power consumption for the model 3 rolled in the "fuel" cost calculation for my personal driving profile pretty much plummeted all the way down to LPG-ICE level.

Well I don't know where you can get a gas powered vehicle with that kind of efficency. But for me the economics of it takes the backseat to the sheer fun of driving it. There's nothing else like it. It's transformative.

 

[Phrixotrichus]

Well I don't know where you can get a gas powered vehicle with that kind of efficency.

I said "fuel cost" not efficiency.
The M3 would sit around ~23kwh per 100km for me, which is 6,21€ in power cost where I live. (0,27€ / kwh )
My current 350 E-Class consumes ~10l LPG per 100km which costs me 6,3€ (0,63€ / l)
And the E-class actually performs better at 130+ km/h.

In basically every other country on earth this would look very different, but autobahn speed really isn`t a BEV`s strength.