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Battery damaged

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Does the $15K cost for battery replacement include both parts and labor, or just parts alone?

Just as a comparison, I used to have a Porsche 911 with PDK transmission. PDK failure is not unheard of and there were plenty of reports of replacement cost being upwards of $10K. Engine replacements - although very rare on a 997.2 - are $20K easily. Given that, $15K battery replacement cost doesn't seem unreasonable.

Sucks that it happened but this is why we carry insurance.
$15,000 is parts only. Also quoted was 4.5 hours labor.
 
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That looks like the area that is most vulnerable... the area just posterior to the suspension before the battery pack starts. It’s just a plastic splash shield with nothing underneath to support the weight of the car. So rather than letting things slide past the battery... it just collides with the battery corner and front of the battery.

Someone needs to come up with an aluminum skid plate to either span the front of the car or at the very least in front of the battery to deflect debri and road hazards like speed bumps from catching that corner of the battery.

Would be easy... just pull off the plastic skid plates and take it to a machine shop and have them trace it out in aluminum... add some structural braces... done... someone can come to market with this idea within weeks and profit from my idea. i’d have it span the green hi lighted area.
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Funny you should mention a skid plate. My first impression when I peered under the car at the leak was that the leading edge of the pack was more vulnerable and had less protection than the flat underside, which has a beefy plate.

If you peer underneath the underside cover between the two front wheels, there's a fair amount of empty space (mine's a single-motor car) so I can see how bad things can happen.

It's a brilliant bit of engineering, but maybe nothing's perfect.
 
Newbie M3 owner here and wondering if installing 20 or 21 inch wheels would prevent the chances of such incidents..

Not at all. The 20" and 21"(and 18 and 19") wheel/tire combinations all have pretty much the same diameter, as the tire gets shorter while the wheel gets bigger. The Performance variants actually ride a half inch lower because of spring changes, and would be even more likely to scrape off the battery.

You could probably argue that the 20 and 21" wheels would allow less tire deflection before the body is pushed up, and that might be true, but I bet there are few when that extra 0.5 - 1.0" would make a big difference.
 
Funny you should mention a skid plate. My first impression when I peered under the car at the leak was that the leading edge of the pack was more vulnerable and had less protection than the flat underside, which has a beefy plate.

If you peer underneath the underside cover between the two front wheels, there's a fair amount of empty space (mine's a single-motor car) so I can see how bad things can happen.

It's a brilliant bit of engineering, but maybe nothing's perfect.

It seems surprising that Tesla would miss that bet, after the road debris fires and "tank mode" refits to the Model S a few years ago that added several pieces of protection specifically for the front of the pack (a trip bar, a capture area, a titanium crush plate at the front of the pack.)
 
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Do Model 3 batteries get mounted from underneath or dropped down from above?

4.5 hours labor charged at what rate?

The Model 3 battery does drop off the bottom of the car like the S&X, but there are bolts attaching it from the inside. So you have to pull out a significant portion of the interior to drop the pack. (Unlike the S&X.)
 
I am only one data point, but is this evidence of blind luck or that the refresh model S is very sturdy and forgiving?

I have hit a few speed bumps and curbs as well to the point where I was sure to see serious scratches and bent rails. But looking at the battery, there is nothing. Tesla built it very tough. I'd be surprised if they decided to make the Model 3 battery so flimsy. Not to suggest anything, but I honestly doubt a simple parking bump/stop would rip up the bottom of the battery so bad that coolant is coming out. Doesn't seem plausible. If the Model 3 battery is anything like the S/X battery, there would have to be some serious impact and force to damage the battery so much.
 
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In each state I’ve lived in, insurance companies can’t mandate the repair. They cut a check to the policyholder for the damage minus the deductible, and it’s up to the owner to have the car repaired or not. I’ve never heard of a state or precedent that gives the insurance company ownership of the parts repaired, although they do have the option of paying for used parts in certain circumstances. Which likely wouldn’t apply for the OP’s scenario.

Of course there may be a pricey core charge, but the only way Tesla would have ownership of the old pack is if they were replacing it under warranty. Collision repairs are completely different.

If it is a first party claim (such as the OP's) AND there is a lienholder, the disbursement will be joint to the policyholder and lienholder (or the repairing facility). So it is the lienholder that will mandate the repair. In a third party claim, the insurance company has no responsibility to the lienholder.
 
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If it is a first party claim (such as the OP's) AND there is a lienholder, the disbursement will be joint to the policyholder and lienholder (or the repairing facility). So it is the lienholder that will mandate the repair. In a third party claim, the insurance company has no responsibility to the lienholder.

Yep, that’s exactly right. I didn’t see what that had to do with who owns the old battery, so I didn’t think it was important to mention. I don’t imagine the bank is gonna want a used battery, or how they could have legal claim to it.
 
Yep, that’s exactly right. I didn’t see what that had to do with who owns the old battery, so I didn’t think it was important to mention. I don’t imagine the bank is gonna want a used battery, or how they could have legal claim to it.
If the repair pricing is inclusive of a core charge or however it may get worded, then it makes a difference.
 
I completely understand

... snip, snip...

Now, for an update.

...snip, snip...

So that's the current status. Time to file a claim I guess.

Thank for taking the time to fully detail what happened and what happened when you took it to the service centre.

I have had a couple of accidental "drop over the curb" in my Model-X where I thought I was using a legit parking lot "exit ramp". Both gave me a very good scare. I want my M-X to last me the 30 plus years of my retirement, so do not want to damage it doing something "dumb".

Your report has been educational and taught me to be even more careful, even if my M-X does have adjustable smart suspension.

Appreciate you sharing and hope there are not too many headaches with the insurance claim.

Kindest regards, Hugh-SG
 
Reading all the posts on this thread really got me interested..... Here's a video of how the undercarraige of a Model 3 looks:


Where did the damage happen, exactly?

Thanks, that was interesting since I'll probably never see the undercarriage area of my car. Do have a question for you shop guys out there. I noticed the bolts throughout, above the shield panels, had been marked (different colors used). Is that the factory's way of indicating that things were tightened to whatever spec and checked? Kind of stuck out in the video as I watched so curious. Thanks!

OP appreciate you sharing your misfortune. Good reminder to all when parking/driving.
 
Thanks, that was interesting since I'll probably never see the undercarriage area of my car. Do have a question for you shop guys out there. I noticed the bolts throughout, above the shield panels, had been marked (different colors used). Is that the factory's way of indicating that things were tightened to whatever spec and checked? Kind of stuck out in the video as I watched so curious. Thanks!
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Yes.
 
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Good Morning Everyone,
Adam at the Rockville, MD Service Center was kind enough to send two undercarriage photos.

From what I understand, what you're looking at (below) is a replaceable plastic coolant connector. In my case, it appears to be damaged - but apparently the battery-side fitting is also broken. My understanding is that this part extends into the battery, and is therefore inaccessible and non-repairable.

20190620_125418.jpg


I was also informed that keeping the damaged pack was not an option. While the term "core charge" was never used, I was told that $15,000 price assumes the old pack is returned to Tesla. In Adam's words, "Tesla wants all the HV battery packs back".

Will update the thread as I know more. Thanks everybody.