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Battery drain - ~ 1L of gaz evaporating per day

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I don't understand this. Temperature is usually triggered by a temperature sensor, a thermistor, not a state of charge sensor. If the battery is not hot, why would Tesla turn on the cooling? I have only heard my cooling come on when charging at a Supercharger. It has never come on charging at home with my 30 amp charging even when running it up to 100%.

There are a bunch of posts of owners of older cars (such as my 2014 P85D) noticing the cooling pumps running continuously while charging at home, and then staying on for many hours if the charge exceeded something around 75%. That results in a high vampire drain if not connected to shore power (you still are using the energy, it’s just not eating up your range). It’s been hypothesized this is Tesla’s response to the battery fires / batterygate but there’s no official word. I now no longer park my Tesla in or close to my house...
 
I don't understand this. Temperature is usually triggered by a temperature sensor, a thermistor, not a state of charge sensor. If the battery is not hot, why would Tesla turn on the cooling?
Tesla sets the target temperature based on different factors, for example when you engage Ludicrous+ the target temperature goes up (warming up the battery higher than during normal usage). They also adjust the target temperature based on on state of charge, and likely things like battery age, charge cycles, outside temperature, etc. Tesla lowered the temperature targets for 85 batteries at >70% presumably after the few battery fires where the cars spontaneously combusted, meaning the batteries hit thermal runaway where the cooling pumps were not able to keep up.

I have only heard my cooling come on when charging at a Supercharger. It has never come on charging at home with my 30 amp charging even when running it up to 100%.
You might be confusing the full fans blowing cooling at supercharger, vs. just the pumps going. They are not very loud. You can hear them (a whining sound) if your garage is quiet, also if you open the frunk you can hear them more.
 
Depending on outside temperature. What changes is the target temperature range, I bet as weather gets colder you 'll be able to charge higher without the pumps kicking in (until it get too cold, then the heater will start kicking in).

My number is 78%. Above that the battery pumps run at 100% continuously. This is at pack temps up to 85 deg F.
 
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Tesla sets the target temperature based on different factors, for example when you engage Ludicrous+ the target temperature goes up (warming up the battery higher than during normal usage). They also adjust the target temperature based on on state of charge, and likely things like battery age, charge cycles, outside temperature, etc. Tesla lowered the temperature targets for 85 batteries at >70% presumably after the few battery fires where the cars spontaneously combusted, meaning the batteries hit thermal runaway where the cooling pumps were not able to keep up.


You might be confusing the full fans blowing cooling at supercharger, vs. just the pumps going. They are not very loud. You can hear them (a whining sound) if your garage is quiet, also if you open the frunk you can hear them more.

I don't own an older Model S so I believe since all you stated isn't happening with my 2020 Model S LR+ there are differences,
Thank you for posting your reference Tesla in your sig. I believe others off target explanation are a result of how their older Teslas work too. Like advice on Ludicrous mode, I don't even have that.

If I didn't already state this TeslaFi in Deep Sleep mode results in practically no phantom drain. Less than 1 mile of range in 13 hours, But when Deep Sleep is off the car loses about 1 mph of range per hour.

Both of these is with Cabin Overheat selected.
Now with respect to Cabin Overheat, it's no longer summer so I might as well shut it off anyway. But in prior testing it made no difference in the range reduction when not in Deep Sleep.

If I access the car with the app or open the door, the car comes out of Deep sleep and may takeup to an hour to return to Deep Sleep is inside the time period I set. During that time it will lose some range.

There is also a sleep mode in TeslaFi.
In Sleep mode I continue to poll the data every time interval set in the settings and this indeed does have impact of the range reduction. Not quite clear to me what triggers Sleep Mode during the day but I have seen it and it will poll data to the TeslaFi server the range loss is less than when the car is fully awake but locked up.

As they say, It's complicated. It's complication is further complicated by the vintage of the Tesla and the software version running.

BTW- I just updated to 2020.40.3, so maybe my data is already obsolete.
 
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We are talking about ~2.8kWh per day, that’s a constant 116 Watts of energy for a car sitting still in a parking lot. That doesn’t make sense to me. That’s ~ 14km a day of equivalent drive. If this was an ICE, would it be fine for people that their car somehow evaporate 1L of gaz/benzine every day?!?

Not to be too pedantic but km is a unit of distance not energy. There's ~8.7kWh in a L of
gaz. So you're really losing ~0.3L/day. Is that a problem that can/should be solved? Sure. But I have ~1000 things higher on my list of technological grievances I'd like to see solved first.
 
I don't own an older Model S so I believe since all you stated isn't happening with my 2020 Model S LR+ there are differences,
Thank you for posting your reference Tesla in your sig. I believe others off target explanation are a result of how their older Teslas work too. Like advice on Ludicrous mode, I don't even have that.
Your Tesla works the same way, the difference being is that yours is new. When my 2015 Model S was new, the pumps never ran much while parked in a garage and there wasn't much vampire drain (though some firmware had more than others, but not related to cooling pumps) - it had much more relaxed battery temperature range while parked (and probably while driving too). What changed is Tesla found out that as batteries age, they are more likely to do do something bad (damage itself or even catch on fire) at the same temperature at which they used to be ok, so they modified the target temperature ranges in the firmware. Over time Tesla will tweak your battery's thermal management as needed, to make them last safely as long as they can (or at least the 8 years under warranty). Whether or not your cooling pumps will run a lot in 5 years, or even whether or not your range gets capped (some 85 batteries were disallowed to charge to the same level of charge as before by a Tesla update resulting in full charge being a much as 10% less than the day before the firmware upgrade), will depend on how well the batteries hold up. After all, we are all driving beta cars on which Tesla learns. They continuously change their designs (Elon used to proudly preach how they change cars on the production line ever 2 weeks with hardware improvements), then experiment with them over time by tweaking firmware, then taking those lessons back and improving future designs.
 
Not to be too pedantic but km is a unit of distance not energy. There's ~8.7kWh in a L of gaz. So you're really losing ~0.3L/day. Is that a problem that can/should be solved? Sure. But I have ~1000 things higher on my list of technological grievances I'd like to see solved first.
I’m mixing units based on average consumption, since TeslaFi is presenting information, but I agree with your point.

Now, on your calculation, I’m missing it. If I’m losing 2.8kWh per day, at an avg. of 200Wh per km, that’s 14km. On a 7L/100km consumption car (Fuel Consumption of Cars and Vans – Analysis - IEA), that’s about 1L. If you are consuming 0.3L for 14km, it means you’d have a car consuming about 2.1L/100km (i.e. 112mpg), that’s probably not what you had in mind, so I suspect our misalignment is somewhere else. Let me know where you think our disconnect is, thanks.