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To be clear... you did preheat via the remote App?

That has always preheated my battery pack and given me some regen - both with my original 2012 P85 and with my 2017 S100D.

Me too. This AM = unheated unattached garage, -22C, put on the App heating 20 minutes prior to leaving and had about 50% regen. It took 45 minutes of driving to reach full regen......
 
Full regen is nice to have, but it isn’t necessary on a short commute. You will save a lot of energy if you preheat just long enough for the cabin to be comfortable. I see no reason to preheat the battery for such a short trip when it’s just going to cold soak again at your destination.
I think there is another reason - the car drives differently when you have zero regen - it doesn't decelerate when you take your foot of the break. That has got me a couple of times in the past couple of weeks since our weather has been so cold to cause zero regen - I have to quickly apply the breaks when I wasn't expecting to need to break.
 
I think there is another reason - the car drives differently when you have zero regen - it doesn't decelerate when you take your foot of the break. That has got me a couple of times in the past couple of weeks since our weather has been so cold to cause zero regen - I have to quickly apply the breaks when I wasn't expecting to need to break.

Yes zero regen is pretty surprising the first time. I remember the very first time I hit that in the Roadster... I slammed the brakes so hard LOL. The thing would just roll and roll and roll...
 
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That sounds like a silly idea. It takes more power to warm the pack than you recover. In fact most of the time there is no "trapped" range showing on the display to be recovered, and it still takes a bunch of kWh to heat the pack.

You’re right about that, but if you preheat on shore power, unlocking that little bit of extra range might be worth it. I don’t have any experience with that specifically. If it rarely happens and the trapped portion isn’t that much, then it’s a non issue and the only reasons to preheat the battery are for charging and a bit of regeneration.
 
It used to. I think since they implemented "Camper Mode" it may continue running the heat until you turn it off, or drive off and then park again, or the car gets down to 20%.

That's exactly what it does now.

I like it when it's on shore power, but wish it would stick to the 30 minute limit when unplugged (or at least be configurable). Sometimes at the office I'll turn it on expecting to leave within the half hour, then get held up and forget about the car. The way it was, I wouldn't waste too much energy, but now it will just keep on using power (until it gets down to 20% SOC).
 
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That's exactly what it does now.

I like it when it's on shore power, but wish it would stick to the 30 minute limit when unplugged (or at least be configurable). Sometimes at the office I'll turn it on expecting to leave within the half hour, then get held up and forget about the car. The way it was, I wouldn't waste too much energy, but now it will just keep on using power (until it gets down to 20% SOC).

Yeah totally agreed. There needs to be finer grade control.

One other thing I've long wished for - since the beginning - a pack temperature reading. That would be SO useful for planning winter driving.
 
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Yeah totally agreed. There needs to be finer grade control.

One other thing I've long wished for - since the beginning - a pack temperature reading. That would be SO useful for planning winter driving.
I agree, though there is a way with TM SPY if interested.
Using TM-Spy to see Model S data.

Our trip up North last week it was interesting to see the data. I also noted how hot the battery pack would get when supercharging in those cold days. At times, the battery was cooling its self. Quick screen shot of a warm battery. Approx 62 to 65deg is when you have full regen

Screenshot_20171230-081701.png
 
Anybody have any good data to share from last night on how long it took their battery to warm up? My garage was very cold at -16C, but I left my climate on overnight by mistake so my battery didn't get too cold.
Knowing how cold it was, I turned mine on by remote about an hour before I left. Looking at my sub-meter logs, it looks like the high spike for battery heating didn't last very long... about 7-10 minutes. Then my power draw tapered down to about 3 kW until I departed. My re-gen was limited to 30 kW (about 1/2) which seems to be typical with the new battery warm-up algorithm.

Unrelated, but I just noticed something odd on my overnight charge profile when I checked on the above. For the last hour and a half of the charge cycle, my power draw dropped from about 9 kW to about 7 kW quite suddenly (i.e. it didn't taper down). Never seen that before

Capture.JPG
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Car is the light green line.
 
Unrelated, but I just noticed something odd on my overnight charge profile when I checked on the above. For the last hour and a half of the charge cycle, my power draw dropped from about 9 kW to about 7 kW quite suddenly (i.e. it didn't taper down). Never seen that before.

When I got home, I noticed my car's setting had dropped from 40 amps to 30 amps when I went to set my timer. Not sure why it would have done that on it's own during a charge cycle. There was no sudden voltage sag (red line in my graph above).
 
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Looking again at my charging data for the last week, and assuming that my battery temp is the same as the "outdoor" temperature reported by my car, it appears that the battery warm up time can be approximated by this formula:

Code:
Warmup time (in minutes) = 15 - temp  , where temp is in Celsius.

So at -5 it will take about 20 minutes to warm up the battery before you can start charging.
 
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Looking again at my charging data for the last week, and assuming that my battery temp is the same as the "outdoor" temperature reported by my car, it appears that the battery warm up time can be approximated by this formula:

Code:
Warmup time (in minutes) = 15 - temp  , where temp is in Celsius.

So at -5 it will take about 20 minutes to warm up the battery before you can start charging.

Time depends both on outdoor temperature and windspeed, given that the pack is completely un-insulated. People have observed negative charge rates in the past on cold windy days outdoors.
 
I am assuming that most Tesla owners park in a garage overnight where they have their charger - just like I do. The purpose of this analysis is to help refine the algorithm for determining the time to start a charge when you want the charge to end at a specified time. I want my charging to end every day at 7am - that is 10 minutes before I leave for work and that is also the time that my electricity rate goes up.

If you know your desired end time, charge rate, temperature, current SoC and final SoC then you can calculate a time to charge and start charging at that time.
 
I am assuming that most Tesla owners park in a garage overnight where they have their charger - just like I do. The purpose of this analysis is to help refine the algorithm for determining the time to start a charge when you want the charge to end at a specified time. I want my charging to end every day at 7am - that is 10 minutes before I leave for work and that is also the time that my electricity rate goes up.

If you know your desired end time, charge rate, temperature, current SoC and final SoC then you can calculate a time to charge and start charging at that time.

FWIW, at 40 amps, I "ballpark" 1 hour for each 10% SOC and that has served me well for approximating my start/stop times. It usually stops around an hour or more before I depart, but I just hit the remote HVAC before I jump in the shower.
 
I am assuming that most Tesla owners park in a garage overnight where they have their charger - just like I do. The purpose of this analysis is to help refine the algorithm for determining the time to start a charge when you want the charge to end at a specified time. I want my charging to end every day at 7am - that is 10 minutes before I leave for work and that is also the time that my electricity rate goes up.

If you know your desired end time, charge rate, temperature, current SoC and final SoC then you can calculate a time to charge and start charging at that time.

If you are charging the primary method of heating the pack should be charge waste heat which you can approximate as 10% of total charge energy. This will also help you avoid the pack heater entirely, as it's quite a lot of energy. If you charge 50kW, you get roughly the equivalent of running the pack heater for an hour.
 
If I remember correctly at 80A I was using an SOC rate of 0.3%/minute - so one hour would give 18% - similar to what you have assuming that it scales with current.

I have since dialed down my HPWC to 70A as the cable/connector were getting seriously hot. But this is less of an issue when the ambient temp is -10C.

I wrote some code that had two modules. Module1 would run at 1:00 to check the SoC. It would then determine what time that charging would start and set a Cron job on the computer for Module2 to run at that time. The Cron job would run and start charging manually at that time - I didn't use the Tesla scheduled charge time feature as you cannot set that via the API. I am now adapting that code to add in the temperature adjustment.
 
If you are charging the primary method of heating the pack should be charge waste heat which you can approximate as 10% of total charge energy. This will also help you avoid the pack heater entirely, as it's quite a lot of energy. If you charge 50kW, you get roughly the equivalent of running the pack heater for an hour.
This is for scheduling home charging which, I think, maxes out at 19.2kW - 80Ax240V.
 
If I remember correctly at 80A I was using an SOC rate of 0.3%/minute - so one hour would give 18% - similar to what you have assuming that it scales with current.
Variables are pack revision, degradation, car and drive model, and utility voltage after sag. I'm getting a smidge over 20% per hour.

I have since dialed down my HPWC to 70A as the cable/connector were getting seriously hot. But this is less of an issue when the ambient temp is -10C.
Just wasting energy this way, as the efficiency drops off as you reduce current for a few reasons. I^2R losses are minimal. Try cleaning out the connectors.