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Battery range - not looking like 310
- Thread starter devsters
- Start date
Your car should automatically inform you of a software update. Should be on a I had to do a reboot of the system before I got notified of the 2018.26.3 software release.
sreams
Member
It is important to ask "compared to what?". Driving at a constant 25-30mph will typically get you more range than being stopped, moving a few feet, and being stopped again. Especially when climate control is working.
chronopc
Active Member
Currently you can't adjust it. Hopefully you can do this with a future update.
That and being able to remotely close the windows would be nice.
jgd108
Member
With record heats even when garaged the car loses 5-7mi easily per day.. not sure if the consumption stats in the car showing how many KWH used since last charge account for the vampire losses or only driving energy used..
Note that cabin overheat protection only works for up to 12 hours after you exit the vehicle. If the car is parked for longer than 12 hours, it will not continue the overheat protection. So for sake of safety reasons, you may just want to leave the cabin overheat protection turned on. Because it's there in case of the unthinkable, which you never could imagine leaving your child or pet in the car. But it happens.
If you can plug the car in at home, you should just leave the car plugged in. This way it'll keep the car charged at 80% at all time. Tesla advises you only charge to 100% the night before if you are planning to go on a long trip. Think of the car like your iphone/droid. You leave the phone sitting there unplugged for days, it's gonna drain. Most people are used to plugging their phone in every night. You just gotta get used to doing the same for your car to get the most ideal range every day.
If you can plug the car in at home, you should just leave the car plugged in. This way it'll keep the car charged at 80% at all time. Tesla advises you only charge to 100% the night before if you are planning to go on a long trip. Think of the car like your iphone/droid. You leave the phone sitting there unplugged for days, it's gonna drain. Most people are used to plugging their phone in every night. You just gotta get used to doing the same for your car to get the most ideal range every day.
Yesterday morning we charged to 90 percent, let the car sit for around 5 hours then drove off. After driving two miles the range was down 14 miles. It’s really bad.
I’d say for every 10 miles of range we probably drive 7 miles.. I always found EPA ratings ridiculous but here I think it’s definitely more ridiculous than usual.
Definitely doesn’t show vampire drain loss. I can see averages of 245 watts per mile yet lost like 30 or 40 miles of range after driving 160 miles. E.g. drive 160 miles but lost 200 mile of range... in two days or three days tops
I am really thinking of escalating this... love the car but this is annoying.
I Totally understand that the car is a smart device and need some electricity even when idled. I have no objection with that.
What I object with is the amount of electricity that it needs. If something like heat protection is turned on.. OK I totally get it that takes a lot of energy.
But many of us (despite not using heat protection) are experiencing 10 miles per day or more of energy loss (That’s a whopping 2.4 kWh)..
Which begs the question... Wtf is the app doing?!
For sure this ^^Hi, @devsters,
I hope you are otherwise enjoying your Model 3.
First and foremost, the biggest favor you are doing for yourself is paying attention to your range estimates and energy consumption.
Dunno how much you are reading these forums, so in case you aren't, the "vampire drain" posters above have mentioned is the name for the concept of an EV losing energy, say overnight, due to other activities going on in the car. For example, a car might have an over-active monitoring system that is waking up every few seconds to watch all the other devices in the car. It takes energy to wake up that monitoring system, and then energy to gather all the info, etc. That's probably not the best example in that the energy required for monitoring shouldn't be that much. But if the monitoring were mistakenly happening say, 10 times a second instead of once a minute, then a bunch of extra energy will be consumed.
A more likely candidate for vampire drain, mentioned by another poster, is that your car's Battery Management System (BMS) could be triggering a lot of battery pack cooling activity if you are living in a particularly warm area. Over the course of two weeks, additional BMS cooling activity could consume a pretty good chunk of energy.
As another poster hypothesized, you might be making small trips. Small trips use higher amounts of energy per mile than longer trips. That's because when you first start out, the car has lots of additional stuff to do to get ready and also the battery pack may need to be warmed (or cooled). If you watch your energy consumption graph/info, you'll see that early on you might be using, say, 400 wH per mile. When your Model 3 is hitting its stride, say after 5 miles, consumption should drop to maybe 250 wH per mile. I drive an S and when I first start out might be getting around 450-500 wH/mile, then after it settles down it might go down to 330 wH per mile. Your range estimate will then go down much faster than your actual miles driven.
If you drive aggressively, you will also use more energy per mile than if you drive gently. Range estimate will then decline faster than actual miles driven.
You might want to spend a few minutes examining all of the controls and settings to see if there are any surprises.
Having said all that, I respectfully disagree with an earlier poster who said that, "Letting it sit, there’s a lot of vampire drain." While that was true with earlier software releases, at this point, most (nearly all?) people posting about Model 3, S and X are reporting small or zero overnight drains. UNLESS cabin overheat protection is kicking on, or you're leaving the climate controls running, or you've left the car in fierce direct sunlight or otherwise in a hot area so that the BMS repeatedly kicks in to cool the battery.
Generally speaking, many (most?) owners leave their cars plugged in at night, so they have a "full" (say, 80% full, you can set the charging maximum as you wish) battery every morning. If you do that, you won't have much if any range anxiety during your typical day, although you might still want to watch the energy consumption.
Finally, there are posters on this forum who consistently achieve range significantly in excess of what Tesla advertises for the EPA ratings. They typically drive gently and in some cases also "hypermile". I am not one of these people.
Best of luck to you.
Alan
My car has sat for two days and has only lost 3 miles of range even when sat it Houston, TX temps.
On firmware 26.1
chronopc
Active Member
Any vampire drain would be reflected as soon as you turned on the car. If you're seeing a range drop after you started driving it's because of your driving style. AC, aggressive acceleration, high speed with all contribute to the range going down. You can definitely achieve or exceed 310 miles of range with efficient driving.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
I don't follow that advice because other data (I'm not positive Tesla specific) show that small charges are inefficient.
SpudLime
Active Member
thats ok, plenty of people dont follow what the manufacture says and its specified in the manual. if you think you know better than the company that builds the car and is the leading tech for battery manufacturing, more power to you
jgd108
Member
I might be wrong but when I kept the car plugged in and not driving for a few days it complained that it wasn't good for the battery.
Maybe that's when I was charging at 90%, if you keep it at 60-70% you might not get that warning?
Maybe that's when I was charging at 90%, if you keep it at 60-70% you might not get that warning?
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