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Battery Replacement Cost

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Hello Everyone,
I have 2013 Model S 85 with 97000 miles. Just got message ‘Maximum battery charge level reduced’ so took it to SC and get quoted with $15000 remanufactured 90kwh battery with only 1 year warranty.
I thought Tesla offer 4 year / 50000 miles whichever comes first but the SC told me it’s a part so it only come with 1 year warranty so is it true? Your help is highly appreciated 🙏🏼
 
I see you also have an issue with reading comprehension. I did not call anyone stupid. I said people do stupid things.

And paying 66% of your vehicles value towards a repair falls under that category.

Not sure why you’re trying to defend this choice other than “because Tesla”.
I'm not taking tips in reading comprehension from the guy who isn't sure why I'm trying to defend this choice when I spelled out the specific reasons... pretty clearly I might add.

Because Tesla? Feck are you talking about?
 
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But then add the cost of a DU replacement and there are plenty of used model S's out there for $35K.
Yeah, plenty of used Model S's out there for $35k with a questionable history and timeline before they need a new HV pack, drive motor or all of the above. I guess, in your comparison, you're just assuming these used $35k Model S's are flawless and will never need anything fixed on them to make this a no brainer decision, right?

Personally, I'll take the devil I know versus the devil I don't.
 
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The drive unit isn't part of the battery if one fails it doesn't mean the other failed too.

That's like saying you have to replace your transmission because your clutch is worn out. Or you need a new rear differential because the main rear oil seal on the engine is leaking and needs replacement.

In an ICE car there is no reason to not keep driving it for several hundred thousand miles unless you don't take care of it. The same rule applies to a Tesla, take care of *sugar* and it will last.

I just finished replacing the oil seals on my front drive unit. This stopped the oil leak and will allow my DU to last longer and keep on rolling.

If my battery fails after this December (2022) then it's all out of pocket but as I said earlier buying a $20k battery is a far better option than buying a new to me Tesla or a new Tesla for 3 times or more that price. If you disagree so be it but if you do you're not a savvy consumer.

The difference is scale and cost. In 2 million miles of driving I've never had an internal combustion engine failure or a transmission failure. When transmissions fail they almost always do so because their fluid isn't changed often enough. Modern gas engines almost never fail when properly maintained. I've sold 5 cars that I've put over 300K miles on. Should any of them have actually had a major drivetrain component failure, it's unlikely the cost would have been $10K (DU cost) or $11K/$22K (battery cost).

I feel perfectly comfortable with my 320K mile Prius and my current 70K mile Lexus(last one was sold with 334K miles). It's unlikely they will ever have a major expensive issue. My current 2019 Prius should last similarly.

Not so with our batteries and DUs. My P85D has the original battery and DUs after 135K miles and that is unusual. Compared to the problems I'd likely have on my current Toyota and Lexus products, there's a very good chance that my P85D will require $40K+ in repairs in a very short period of time after the warranty expires. The likely out of warranty repair cost within a year or two of the warranty expiring is currently 90% of the current value and more than 100% if you figure the value in 2 years.

I'm not keeping it past the warranty. It will be gone at least 6 months before the warranty expires.
 
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The difference is scale and cost. In 2 million miles of driving I've never had an internal combustion engine failure or a transmission failure. When transmissions fail they almost always do so because their fluid isn't changed often enough. Modern gas engines almost never fail when properly maintained. I've sold 5 cars that I've put over 300K miles on. Should any of them have actually had a major drivetrain component failure, it's unlikely the cost would have been $10K (DU cost) or $11K/$22K (battery cost).

I feel perfectly comfortable with my 320K mile Prius and my current 70K mile Lexus(last one was sold with 334K miles). It's unlikely they will ever have a major expensive issue. My current 2019 Prius should last similarly.

Not so with our batteries and DUs. My P85D has the original battery and DUs after 135K miles and that is unusual. Compared to the problems I'd likely have on my current Toyota and Lexus products, there's a very good chance that my P85D will require $40K+ in repairs in a very short period of time after the warranty expires. The likely out of warranty repair cost within a year or two of the warranty expiring is currently 90% of the current value and more than 100% if you figure the value in 2 years.

I'm not keeping it past the warranty. It will be gone at least 6 months before the warranty expires.
It's about probability of failure. You think nothing of having an ICE over 100k miles and 10 years etc. because you know from the experience of many many millions of cars before you that an engine just going bang isn't likely - it can happen but the probability is that low that you take the risk. Keeping a Tesla past 8 years (out of battery warranty) is way more unknown than that. There just isn't the history to tell us the probability of an out of warranty battery failure is 10%, or 1%, or 0.1% etc.

It's probably pretty low, but the cost to replace is so extreme that you really want to know that the probability is really low before being willing to take the risk. Third party repairs/replacements bring the risk down by bringing the cost down somewhat but we still have no idea of probability.

Add to that, users of a forum like this are definitely seeing close to ALL the cases of failure (pretty sure everyone in the situation would be seeking all the help/advice they can get before dropping $22k), and that's giving us an impression that it's very widespread. I am guessing there have been 30-50 cases reported on here, and that's out of c.25k deliveries in all of 2012 and 2013, so 0.12% to 0.2% failure. how that will change as years go by I don't know, but as of now I guess you could say that 1 in 500 batteries will bum out in the first year after warranty expires.

I would be extremely reluctant to spend $22k on a battery for an 8 year old car, because who knows when the suspension is going to fail, the sub-frame is going to crack, the motor is going to fail etc. but it certainly a lot less than spending $100k on a new model S. it's more than half of $40k on a 2019 model 3 SR+ though, which is still in full warranty for a while and lots of years of battery/drive warranty. When most of us bought our S's there was no 3, so perhaps the extra size and liftgate weren't actually needed, it's just what was available at the time.

I'm going out of warranty in June this year and so this is something I am thinking about a lot. I'm going to keep it but want to pin down some 3rd party options here in the UK for some peace of mind before I do!
 
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I suspect we are much higher than .2% in the first year after warranty. I understand your logic but there are a lot of those 25k models that are not even driving any more or never had a brisk driving life. I think you put too much faith in the in the intelligence and practicality of owners.

I would probably do my personal math at 5% per annum for 2 years and then 10% per after that. I have a 5/2015.
Given the relatively low cost of everything else, even $2200 per year for battery failure is not bad.
 
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Keeping a Tesla past 8 years (out of battery warranty) is way more unknown than that.

It's not unknown. Based on just the several dozen co-workers and friends that have Teslas and the poles in this forum, clublexus.com, and priuschat.com, the odds of a complete DU or battery failure within the first 100K miles are literally hundreds of times higher and when it happens, there's no repair from Tesla. It's replace and the price is catastrophically high.

Note, I say "complete" failure because there is no servicing DU or battery from Tesla's standpoint. If anything goes wrong, you get charged the full amount for replacement. The odds of a gas engine or transmission(that has had proper fluid replacements) failing to the point that requires a complete replacement are miniscule.
 
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Yeah, plenty of used Model S's out there for $35k with a questionable history and timeline before they need a new HV pack, drive motor or all of the above. I guess, in your comparison, you're just assuming these used $35k Model S's are flawless and will never need anything fixed on them to make this a no brainer decision, right?

Personally, I'll take the devil I know versus the devil I don't.

Plenty of used $35K S's out that that have had battery and DU replacements and have the same questionable history. You missed the point entirely.
 
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I'll line up, cash in hand, for EVERY SINGLE 2014 P85D that needs a new HV battery pack that I can buy for $100 because the current owner can't see any value in it and wants to go buy a brand new Plaid for $130k. If anyone thinks fixing their Model S is "stupid" and wants to get out from under, just let me know.

Not NO value, but whatever value it could have been sold for minus the the cost to replace the battery should it be marketed with a non working HV battery....minus some additional cost for the prospective buyer not being able to test drive it evaluate the condition of the rest of the car including wind noies, and drivetrain issue.
 
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