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BC Racing Coilovers

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I know I’m going to get flamed for posting this since I’ve seen a couple threads about the brand before but no real feedback from users with a set for this car. It’s strange to see such hate over this brand since a lot of you tubers that I follow (TJ Hunt, Adam LZ and Cleetus) to name a few use BC Racing coilovers on their track and weekend cars. I’ve also had friends use these for drifting and auto cross and swear by the brand.

Does anyone have first hand experience with these coil overs on a 3? Is this a better option than eibach lowering springs for a daily driver and canyons on the weekend?
 
I had used BC Racing BR series on my SLK for...6-7 years before I traded in for M3? Except one of the rear shocks blown, because it is used set, the coilover performed what I expected. I believe the M3 BC racing coilover is also a BR series, which is one-way dampering and priced reasonable compare with other brand like RSR. My experience with BR series is the design not really for sedan or luxury cars looking for comfort. I tried various setting and still feel every bumps on the road, it was a SLK so it's okay, but probably not on a M3 and if your city has really bad roads.
 
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Coilovers are definitely a part in which "you get what you pay for" to a large degree. BC Racing Coilovers are "fine", in the sense that yes they will probably provide better handling performance than stock - but they absolutely are not comfortable. I've rode in several European cars with BC Coilovers and they are...harsh. BC has a pretty aggressive promotional/sponsor program which is why you see a lot of YouTubers running them.

In contrast, KW has no such program (at least not to the same degree) because they are a well established brand with years of history to back them up and a lot of their business is in the EU. Hands down the MPP's will ride better - and outperform the BC Racing Coilovers. Is that worth the premium to you - maybe, maybe not. What I can say is that suspension installation is not free unless you are planning to do it yourself, and I have learned over the years that doing it once and doing it right is far cheaper than doing it once wrong, and then doing it again right.
 
BC racing shocks main benefit is being able to lower a car inexpensively. Lots of far better options (at higher costs) for those looking for track benefits or ride and handling improvements.

Bilstein, K&W, Moton, MCS, Ohlins, Fox and many others make track proven setups.
 
I actually looked into these because I was also looking into air cups. The shocks themselves are threaded individually from the body meaning you can actually lower the entire shock and thus having maximum travel for compression. So if you’re drop is 2” then your shock can lower into the body 2” if you want to. Pretty cool idea if you ask me. Also a lot of their items are modular meaning you can order different springs and spring rates of something doesn’t work out. Finally they have top mounts in their package for the fronts. In terms of value for what you get...I see a ton. I also heard Tein is coming into the Tesla market so that would be cool. I’m seriously waiting on aftermarket shocks only to hit the market and yet no one has done so.
 
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If you want a better option than the Eibachs and are on a budget, just go for

Tesla Model 3 18+ (Dual Motor AWD) - FIVE8 Industries

Other than that you are just a few hundred dollars away from MPP Comforts.

I've heard good things about BC Coilovers, but that was in the past.
I had it on my 350z. It was great! I didn’t race it was more for looks but the ride was still good. Not gonna lower my 3 though just not worth it having to angle into drive ways, roads, parking lots lol.
 
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I sort of disagreed coilover better than springs. Of course, it's all depends on what you are looking for. If you have tried tsportline springs, I have to say it is not bad at all for street. Some springs match so well with the stock dampers, it offers a much smoother ride and great handling.


What I can say is that suspension installation is not free unless you are planning to do it yourself, and I have learned over the years that doing it once and doing it right is far cheaper than doing it once wrong, and then doing it again right.

KW is not a set of suspension for DIY or average garage can handle, especially on M3. My KW was first installed at a so-call KW reseller without KW certification, all the bolts were not properly torqued and noise coming right off shop. I had to find someone that is KW certified to reinstall everything. Costed me almost another $400.
 
KW is not a set of suspension for DIY or average garage can handle, especially on M3. My KW was first installed at a so-call KW reseller without KW certification, all the bolts were not properly torqued and noise coming right off shop. I had to find someone that is KW certified to reinstall everything. Costed me almost another $400.

Sorry to hear that! Finding a reputable installer can definitely be difficult.
 
I sort of disagreed coilover better than springs. Of course, it's all depends on what you are looking for. If you have tried tsportline springs, I have to say it is not bad at all for street. Some springs match so well with the stock dampers, it offers a much smoother ride and great handling.




KW is not a set of suspension for DIY or average garage can handle, especially on M3. My KW was first installed at a so-call KW reseller without KW certification, all the bolts were not properly torqued and noise coming right off shop. I had to find someone that is KW certified to reinstall everything. Costed me almost another $400.

You may be over thinking it. There is nothing particular special with the installation procedure of KWs or any coilovers for that matter onto the car itself. Torquing properly and at ride height with certain bolts is key.
 
I am sure it's not rocket science to install the suspension. I live in an apartment, there is no way to jack up the car to DIY. The non-certified shops I visited were not able to tune the KW that perform the best, whereas another local member installed and tuned his KW at a certified shop, the handling is sharp, no noise, everything behave what KW should be, of course he tracked the car every week.

Noise was found coming from the mounting bolts on the strut towers. I prefer to have it installed correctly on day1 rather than painful searching for shop errors afterward.
 
I've been distributing BC for California over the past 10 years to fill a void for affordable suspension that's well supported for our dealer network. While they won't have the same valving technology of say KW or Ohlins they definitely can be an improvement over the stock suspension setup because we can customize the shocks unloaded/free length as well as bump. I've already taken apart the oem spec'd BC's so that I can have them custom spec'd to suit our calculations for wheel rate, stroke, etc.... BC is a massive company and many of the other "affordable" coilovers you find on the market from Taiwan are private labeled BC's and will still come through their pipeline but is from a lower end series, V1, hence the reduced pricing. Many of the others are the 50mm shock bodies whereas the BR series is a 52mm shock body. BC does make the DR series as well which will give you the digressive valving that so many talk about. I am looking for someone to test out my custom spec BC's but ideally need someone local to Fremont, CA. If interested lmk. It takes about 4-6 weeks to get them spec'd and to the states.

In regards to installation, there is something technical you need to know when installing a suspension similar in configuration to BC Racing or many other types of similar coilovers that have an independent lower bracket. KW/Bilstein are great in that they make the installation very user friendly because they remove all the guesswork for you by producing a fixed "damper length". I won't go into too much detail but there's a fine balance between droop/rebound and bump/compression travel in relation to the overall "critical shock length". Most consumers are unwilling to pay the costs of setting up a "JDM style" coilover properly and resort to adjusting all the ride height at the lower bracket which is technically incorrect. There's a very good reason why the european brands, Ohlins aside because it's a Yamaha damper, do not believe in these independent lower brackets. It's all about threaded fixed damper lengths and longer strokes. I don't question the europeans when it comes to dampers and other things alike.

If I were to install a BC racing, RSR, etc... type of coilover onto a car it would be a multistep process if I haven't done one before. I would remove the spring, disconnect all the sway bar end links, then install the damper, adjust the length such that under full compression there is no contact with anything including control arms, sway bars, tire to fender liner, etc.... Once that damper length is setup then the spring can go back in and adjustment can be done at the spring just like KW/Bilstein/Eibach/H&R. Many times we will add in a helper spring to maintain spring position if needed. The Model 3 is a bit unique due to the amount of preload and spring rate we run on them for street cars so we have not needed a helper/tender spring as yet up front. Now with Tesla we have another metric to consider which is battery pack contact so add that variable into your damper length adjustments. Ideally we want the bumpstop to be fully engaged before any of these areas can make contact with anything we do not want it to. That's a real short dirty version of some of the basics to consider.
 
I've ran BC Racing BR series coilovers (with Swift springs), on my other car for the better part of a decade and autox'd on them. I agree with what someone said above, in that they performed as expected. They allowed me to stiffen and lower the suspension to a point I liked, for the price. However, when talking about modifying your suspension, everything from installation to spring rates will have an influence on the outcome and experience.

I also agree with what someone else said, in that you get what you pay for (in general), and there are better coils out there, but that's not a knock on them.
 
I've been distributing BC for California over the past 10 years to fill a void for affordable suspension that's well supported for our dealer network. While they won't have the same valving technology of say KW or Ohlins they definitely can be an improvement over the stock suspension setup because we can customize the shocks unloaded/free length as well as bump. I've already taken apart the oem spec'd BC's so that I can have them custom spec'd to suit our calculations for wheel rate, stroke, etc.... BC is a massive company and many of the other "affordable" coilovers you find on the market from Taiwan are private labeled BC's and will still come through their pipeline but is from a lower end series, V1, hence the reduced pricing. Many of the others are the 50mm shock bodies whereas the BR series is a 52mm shock body. BC does make the DR series as well which will give you the digressive valving that so many talk about. I am looking for someone to test out my custom spec BC's but ideally need someone local to Fremont, CA. If interested lmk. It takes about 4-6 weeks to get them spec'd and to the states.

In regards to installation, there is something technical you need to know when installing a suspension similar in configuration to BC Racing or many other types of similar coilovers that have an independent lower bracket. KW/Bilstein are great in that they make the installation very user friendly because they remove all the guesswork for you by producing a fixed "damper length". I won't go into too much detail but there's a fine balance between droop/rebound and bump/compression travel in relation to the overall "critical shock length". Most consumers are unwilling to pay the costs of setting up a "JDM style" coilover properly and resort to adjusting all the ride height at the lower bracket which is technically incorrect. There's a very good reason why the european brands, Ohlins aside because it's a Yamaha damper, do not believe in these independent lower brackets. It's all about threaded fixed damper lengths and longer strokes. I don't question the europeans when it comes to dampers and other things alike.

If I were to install a BC racing, RSR, etc... type of coilover onto a car it would be a multistep process if I haven't done one before. I would remove the spring, disconnect all the sway bar end links, then install the damper, adjust the length such that under full compression there is no contact with anything including control arms, sway bars, tire to fender liner, etc.... Once that damper length is setup then the spring can go back in and adjustment can be done at the spring just like KW/Bilstein/Eibach/H&R. Many times we will add in a helper spring to maintain spring position if needed. The Model 3 is a bit unique due to the amount of preload and spring rate we run on them for street cars so we have not needed a helper/tender spring as yet up front. Now with Tesla we have another metric to consider which is battery pack contact so add that variable into your damper length adjustments. Ideally we want the bumpstop to be fully engaged before any of these areas can make contact with anything we do not want it to. That's a real short dirty version of some of the basics to consider.
I’m pretty interested in the fact that the shock can adjusted so technically you can reuse oem springs on an adjustable shock. The only reason why higher spring rates are introduced is because of a shortened overall length spring. I feel that using an oem spring and an adjustable damper could be the best of both worlds.

I am still waiting for an aftermarket shock company to come out with just adjustable dampening shocks. Tokico, KYB, Bilstein, etc need to hit this market ASAP. It looks like unplugged is the only source right now.
 
The M3 has horrible height design. The fender gap is huge, but the ground clearance is low. The front upper control arm also limited the tires size to make it tire wall thicker (20" is stuck with using 30/35 tires). I am surprised Elon suddenly killed the air suspension options we always want, a lot of silly money spent on fixing the stock suspension ride quality.
 
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I’m pretty interested in the fact that the shock can adjusted so technically you can reuse oem springs on an adjustable shock. The only reason why higher spring rates are introduced is because of a shortened overall length spring. I feel that using an oem spring and an adjustable damper could be the best of both worlds.

I am still waiting for an aftermarket shock company to come out with just adjustable dampening shocks. Tokico, KYB, Bilstein, etc need to hit this market ASAP. It looks like unplugged is the only source right now.

I've got this on my list of things to do. UP does have that threaded damper but it's a fixed length and not really designed for height adjustment. It's also very expensive imo. My friend has been the test mule for those dampers in the last part of his autox season. It definitely helped his experience substantially. He nearly swept the season iirc and by an even larger margin once these dampers got on there.

I have something in the works so that people can get good dampers to work with things like Eibach/UP, or stock springs.

This BC coilover out of the box cannot work with factory springs however. There are several things that need to be done such as a custom uppermount or adapters for the factory mount. In addition to that is a custom lower spring perch for the OEM spring. Both of which UP has done with their "Autox" damper setup.
 
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