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Be aware! Missing Control Arm Nut: Potential Safety Issue

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Very good advice. Thank you. We will be doing that. Tesla is trying to make it right by giving us a loaner for the next couple of weeks while they order parts and get the Y fixed, but it is still very scary thinking how many other Y's are out there having this issue without the owners' knowing about it.
I am very sorry to hear that you ran into such a problem. Which Tesla Service Center is handling your problem?

Larry
 
One data point, all four of those bolts on mine are tight. It's a 22mm socket BTW, and no room for a deep socket.

Just read the torque table. Wow, the lowest spec for the M22 is 467 ft-lbs. I have no idea if mine are that tight. My best torque wrench goes to a mere 250 ft-lbs. I don't have a shallow impact 22mm socket, and I doubt my regular one could survive that torque.
 
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Just read the torque table. Wow, the lowest spec for the M22 is 467 ft-lbs. I have no idea if mine are that tight. My best torque wrench goes to a mere 250 ft-lbs. I don't have a shallow impact 22mm socket, and I doubt my regular one could survive that torque.

The socket may be 22mm but the bolt would be a M14. The dry torque on that looks to be about 115 ft-lbs (155 nm) which is a little more doable!
 
Yes, we noticed a clunking/crunching sound as we turned the wheel. Sadly, that should have been our signal there was major issue, but we didn't connect the dots.

Thanks. Glad you all are OK.

The upside of this particular issue, is that unless there's a catastrophic failure of the bolt, the problem should start revealing itself ahead of time. And if the bolt is missing from the get-go (not the case here from everything posted so far), it should be obvious really early on.
It sucks because the OP has a right to be angry, but at the same time, this does and can happen to any unlucky car owner, regardless of manufacturer. It's not an excuse. It's just reality.

Obviously this is a Tesla screw-up, however, if your brand new car is making unusual noises, don't ignore it. That nut had time to work itself loose and fall out. You can see the imprint of the lock washer, so it was on there and torqued down to some degree. Obviously not enough.

Hopefully, they'll get you squared away soon.
 
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If I was a model Y owner i definitely would buy some of this and go out and apply it, or at least use a permanent sharpie to mark the nut and bolt.

Thanks for the link, I just ordered myself a tube. Still, having to take a look periodically under the front suspension because of a nut or 2 coming loose is absurd on a modern vehicle. I've had over 70 cars in my life, from 1950's to 2020, and even the most duct-taped together jalopy I've driven, I've not had to check something like this before to make sure I'm not going to get in a major accident. I have to imagine this is a failure to torque, or the type of fastener they chose is not up to the task.
 
Obviously, this should be the subject of an emergency recall. It should be checked immediately on all vehicles in service. This is an easy thing to check -- for a home mechanic or any shop anywhere. All you need is a torque wrench, and to know the proper torque value. You will have to jack the car up, or put it on a lift, to get access to these nuts on both the front AND rear. In the aviation world, "safety paint" is often used to provide an easy visual indicator of important fasteners, as jf64k shows. NHTSA needs to know about this ASAP, but Tesla MUST act on its own immediately. They've either got an assembly line, engineering/design, or supply problem of the first order.

Seriously -- if you own a Model Y -- do not drive your car until you have this checked by someone competent!
 
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This is real.

My rear toe links on my Model 3 were not tightened properly and caused the car to feel squirrely on hard acceleration. They throw these things together, so you really need to "finish the assembly" when you get the car.

Your experience with your car does not mean that is representative of overall build quality. My experience with my Model 3 (88k miles and counting) has been the exact opposite. With the exception of the stinky AC issue I have had zero defects / panel gap problems / paint problems etc. The car has been darn near perfect. What you and I have are conflicting anecdotal stories. We need statistically relevant data before we can draw a conclusion like “they throw these things together” or “highest quality american made car.”
 
This video from Nord says that this type of lock-washer should not be used on soft metals nor where the bolt is subject to movement.

The suspension arm is soft alloy and one end goes into the rubber bush

THIS lock-washer would be much better.
C'mon now, are you saying that Tesla shouldn't be using this product in this application? Don't you think they spec all of this stuff out with the manufacturer prior to using them, and determining that the application is within spec for the part?