Looks great, Bonnie!
You're doing it the right way - and you're right, it's a bit painful. I'm impatient... I move them faster.
In the afternoon I place ratchet straps beneath the hive, enough to wrap around and hold the hive together. I keep a set of inner covers with window screen stapled to the feeder hole so that the upper exit is closed, and change to them. I take some duct tape so that the "completely closed" side of my entrance reducers are stuck to the adhesive. When night comes and they all crawl in, I slip the entrance reducers in and then tape the duct tape to the base and the hive body. I close the ratchet straps to hold the hive together, then load up the hive.
I move 2-3 at a time, depending on where they're going in the yard. I find that bees on the ground aren't a problem if you move them at night, and as you noted, stack a bunch of branches in front of the entrances (or lean a pallet against the top of the hive). I remove the tape in the morning and then the bees usually start reorientation flights, you can see that they're reorientation because they're flying in circles and re-landing. Wear your suit, they don't like being bottled up...
That whole "move them more than 2 miles" thing tends to be a myth if you force reorientation in the right way, in my experience.
You're doing it the right way - and you're right, it's a bit painful. I'm impatient... I move them faster.
In the afternoon I place ratchet straps beneath the hive, enough to wrap around and hold the hive together. I keep a set of inner covers with window screen stapled to the feeder hole so that the upper exit is closed, and change to them. I take some duct tape so that the "completely closed" side of my entrance reducers are stuck to the adhesive. When night comes and they all crawl in, I slip the entrance reducers in and then tape the duct tape to the base and the hive body. I close the ratchet straps to hold the hive together, then load up the hive.
I move 2-3 at a time, depending on where they're going in the yard. I find that bees on the ground aren't a problem if you move them at night, and as you noted, stack a bunch of branches in front of the entrances (or lean a pallet against the top of the hive). I remove the tape in the morning and then the bees usually start reorientation flights, you can see that they're reorientation because they're flying in circles and re-landing. Wear your suit, they don't like being bottled up...
That whole "move them more than 2 miles" thing tends to be a myth if you force reorientation in the right way, in my experience.