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Before you spend your hard-earned money on PPF.

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I have previously mentioned that I bought white and I it’s no secret that I would have chosen a color if I could have done it again. This is because you will not get the pop in the finish with white like you do with other colors. But this is not about that. This is about PPF and the difference between shops that use precut pieces and those with the experience to use full pieces where possible. I paid $4500 to do the full car and another $600 for ceramic coating. I’m disappointed because I have a lot of seams and in very visible areas. Some of those seams are already showing dirt between them. I’m not happy. This is in contrast to a place like RPM Tesla. Admittedly, I have not seen there work but there videos describe using pieces they cut themselves and wrap AROUND the metal. I hate that the film ends just short of every edge. That is not what I consider full protection. I have no one to blame but myself. If I had researched just a little bit more before jumping in, I could have saved myself $4500 and well, yes, another $600 also because when I have this film removed, the ceramic coating will come off with it. I want it done right the first time, even if it costs a little more.

Stepping off soapbox. Hope it helps someone.
 
The terms are “custom” vs “kit” when you are shopping around. I never would have known that, except the used S I bought had a “kit” wrap, so I could see all the edges. I didn’t mind as I didn’t pay for it, but when I had a few missing pieces replaced I had them do custom.

A full custom at a good So Cal shop costs upwards of $6k tho. So you do pay out the nose to reduce the seams. I paid for a full custom wrap on my 3 and haven’t regretted it. People at work like to scuff up my passenger door, and so far, all the damage has just been in the wrap. Lot gets full during the day, so no option to park away from everyone else.
 
Sorry to hear about your bad PPF install. Did the shop not stand behind their work and correct any issues? My shop wrapped around all edges wherever possible and some charge extra to do that because it’s more time consuming. Definitely a good chunk of cash for them not to do a decent job.
 
Yes, research is key! I paid only a couple hundred more than you for full wrap, with nearly all edges wrapped, and minimal seams (rocker panel??, and down low on front bumper). I spoke with every shop I considered, and made sure to discuss seams and edges. I ended up going with a place that made me feel comfortable that they understood exactly what I wanted. Bonus points for being a better price than everyone else!
 
I have previously mentioned that I bought white and I it’s no secret that I would have chosen a color if I could have done it again. This is because you will not get the pop in the finish with white like you do with other colors. But this is not about that. This is about PPF and the difference between shops that use precut pieces and those with the experience to use full pieces where possible. I paid $4500 to do the full car and another $600 for ceramic coating. I’m disappointed because I have a lot of seams and in very visible areas. Some of those seams are already showing dirt between them. I’m not happy. This is in contrast to a place like RPM Tesla. Admittedly, I have not seen there work but there videos describe using pieces they cut themselves and wrap AROUND the metal. I hate that the film ends just short of every edge. That is not what I consider full protection. I have no one to blame but myself. If I had researched just a little bit more before jumping in, I could have saved myself $4500 and well, yes, another $600 also because when I have this film removed, the ceramic coating will come off with it. I want it done right the first time, even if it costs a little more.

Stepping off soapbox. Hope it helps someone.

The price sounds pretty reasonable for what you got (assuming they were as clean as they could be with lining up the edges to the panels, and seams are straight or close to it). If you want every panel to have wrapped edges on "every" side/edge, you'll be paying way more since certain, if not most panels, will have to be removed.
 
Do keep in mind that not all custom installers are equal. Pushing a traditional precut installer to do a custom install will result in horrible results. Best is to visit the shop to see their work in person and get up close to the vehicle(s) to look at edges and from various lighting angles (especially indoor LED or fluorescents). Good shops have a strong following that span many many years. Be careful with pop up shops that don't seem to show a history.
 
Sorry you didn’t learn the differences before you spent the money. I did a lot of research here on the forum and online. Also called a few highly recommended shops in our area and spoke with them. By that point I knew what to ask and the shop we had ours done at also took a considerable amount of time on the phone with my husband and I on a Saturday to tell us about their shop, PPF and our choices. Suggested we come in and see the cars they were working on which we did. PPF especially custom wrapped is an investment in your car no doubt and this was a totally new thing for us. My friend back east who has had some of his cars PPF’d also told us about edges and dirt and paint fading differently depending on what was wrapped and not. And you should know you probably won’t be able to wrap all edges of a car depending on the design of pieces. For our Model S I’d say the mirrors due to their shape are probably the hardest piece I think and where you will likely see an edge.

When our bumper met a wooden post at a county park and got torn (only PPF, no paint damage), our shop gave us the choice of redoing the whole bumper or a partial with a seam and showed my husband where that would lie on the bumper. We elected to replace the whole piece. However which way you go depends on your goal and budget. Some people will only keep their cars for a couple of years and are more concerned about door dings and rock chips and preserving the original paint until then. At some point if you keep your car for a longer timeframe you’ll want to have the film removed before the adhesive becomes too hard to remove; and then depending on the car and your plans for it decide where to go from there.
 
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Sorry you didn’t learn the differences before you spent the money. I did a lot of research here on the forum and online. Also called a few highly recommended shops in our area and spoke with them. By that point I knew what to ask and the shop we had ours done at also took a considerable amount of time on the phone with my husband and I on a Saturday to tell us about their shop, PPF and our choices. Suggested we come in and see the cars they were working on which we did. PPF especially custom wrapped is an investment in your car no doubt and this was a totally new thing for us. My friend back east who has had some of his cars PPF’d also told us about edges and dirt and paint fading differently depending on what was wrapped and not. And you should know you probably won’t be able to wrap all edges of a car depending on the design of pieces. For our Model S I’d say the mirrors due to their shape are probably the hardest piece I think and where you will likely see an edge.

When our bumper met a wooden post at a county park and got torn (only PPF, no paint damage), our shop gave us the choice of redoing the whole bumper or a partial with a seam and showed my husband where that would lie on the bumper. We elected to replace the whole piece. However which way you go depends on your goal and budget. Some people will only keep their cars for a couple of years and are more concerned about door dings and rock chips and preserving the original paint until then. At some point if you keep your car for a longer timeframe you’ll want to have the film removed before the adhesive becomes too hard to remove; and then depending on the car and your plans for it decide where to go from there.

I didn’t know that I had a limited amount of time to decide what to do about this film job. I didn’t realize it would be harder to remove if I waited till later. I appreciate the replies and that video in the above post is a great example of the difference. If I’m going to pay 4500, then I’m definitely going to pay 6000 to do it correctly. I have those same exact seams on the bottom of the front bumper. When I asked the installer about them, he recommended I use some wax now so that it helps fill the gap and prevents dirt from sticking to the adhesive. I JUST DIDN’T KNOW BETTER! It’s why I started this thread. I spent nearly 90k out the door for my Model 3. Yes, I would have spent the extra 1500-2000 to not have seams. Hope you future buyers are reading!
 
One other thing I will mention is that your installer will want you to bring your car in within a short time period after the work was done--likely a week or less. Might even be a requirement for your warranty on it. Plan for this if you want a successful install. They will check the film for air bubbles, lift edges etc so that the pieces are lying flat and firm to the car. After a short period of time the ability to adjust spots like this fades away as the film becomes harder and less flexible. Also follow the detailers instructions and don't wash the car for the alloted time period. You don't want water to get in under the film.

Hopefully newbies to PPF will find their way to owners' posts on it and become more educated. Always better to learn from others before doing than learn more after the fact. :)


OK one more thing or two while I think of it. If your State (like California) requires the application of decals on your car, like for HOV lanes, talk to your shop about applying them to an additional layer of PPF so when the decals expire they can be removed from your bumper/panels more easily and without leaving their really strong adhesive on your car.

For Model 3s, if you live in a State (like California) that requires a front license plate to be displayed and you chose to use the holder provided by Tesla (uses a strong sticky tape to adhere), have your installer similarly add extra layer of PPF first to the area where your holder will go. If you are getting ceramic coating applied to your car after PPF, they should affix the plate holder first and coat around it otherwise the coating will prevent the holder from sticking to the bumper area.

While your car is at the shop, you might want to have them PPFing the metal door sill plates. On the Model S (not familiar with the MX) these are chrome and scratch easily from your shoes passing over them and soon look bad. On the Model 3 these plates are more matte finish but you'll probably want to have them protected too. I know people from the MX forum have also had the back of their seats covered if they have small kids that kick the seat backs (these were in a piano black finish I believe, not sure about now). And of course on the Model 3 with the glossy piano black center console, people are also having a vinyl wrap done on this area to prevent noticable fingerprints and fine scratches to the plastic.
 
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Aside from seams there is one more item that I think turned out terrible looking and that is the sensors all over the car. This shop cut out holes where the sensors are. I'm not sure if it's even required but the holes are not clean looking and not uniformly cut. One side has 1-2mm space where the other side is cut along the edge. Here again, because any exposed edges collect dust, there is a black ring around each sensor. Did anyone else have this issue? Is it even required that the PPF be cut around each sensor or can it just be put over the top?

Edit: One other question. Assuming the cut outs are required, Is there anything that can be done to alleviate the dirt that collects around the edges? Has anyone tried using wax? I had ceramic coating used but it apparently had no effect on the PPF edges.
 
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You do have to cut out around the sensors. The sockets in the bumper that the sensors fit into are not 100% sealed from the back. Dust and dirt will get behind the PPF in front of the sensor and look really bad. With that being said. A skilled installer will have a steady hand and the cut out should not even be noticeable, or the "kit" (plotter cut) patterns will cut the circles out without the jagged look to them but the patterns do tend to leave about 1mm gap.

As for alleviating the dirt on the edges of the PPF, edges of anything will catch dust, add that to a white car and your in for a constant fight with the dust. Buy a soft bristled tooth brush and that should knock out the dirt when you wash your car. Other than getting the bumper re-done by a custom installer/shop that wont have those seams and tucks the edges away or very close to the panel edges, your kinda stuck. Sorry for that. My shop offers custom and "kit" installs at separate prices. When someone wants the "best deal", meaning the cheapest cost, we walk the car and show exactly where the seams will be, as well as show pics of other completed cars.

It isn't bad to want a better installation. It just sounds like your shop didn't prepare you enough for what you would get as far as the finished look. On darker cars like the midnight silver metallic and deep blue metallic, the seams are barely seen.
 
You do have to cut out around the sensors.
I know there’s been discussion about this exact issue and there are two points of view. One being, yes cut out over the sensors and the other, no you can wrap over the sensors. I’m sure your shop has good reasons to cut out over the sensors but when I had my full body Xpel done, the film was wrapped over the sensors and so far I’ve had zero issues with EAP and the sensors associated with it. Just sharing my experience and not trying to say which method is the way to go.
 
I hurt to know that you're disappointed. We've all been there. It's not fun. But it sounds like you're not going to let it ruin your life. And you've helped me by describing your outcome and my other options. Thank you for speaking up. (And help us to not spend money at that shop until they make you whole.)
 
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I know there’s been discussion about this exact issue and there are two points of view. One being, yes cut out over the sensors and the other, no you can wrap over the sensors. I’m sure your shop has good reasons to cut out over the sensors but when I had my full body Xpel done, the film was wrapped over the sensors and so far I’ve had zero issues with EAP and the sensors associated with it. Just sharing my experience and not trying to say which method is the way to go.
To be honest, I was taught to cut the sensor holes for these reasons. I hadn't ever questioned it or tried to just leave the wrap/clear bra over the sensors. Hmmm....???
 
I wanted to follow up on my original post since a lot has happened since. I took my car to RPM Tesla and had them do the chrome delete as well as the powder coat on the rims. They also took the time to show me the areas on the car where the PPF should be re-done. I went back to the original company and this time around it was a much better experience. I showed the the areas that I considered unacceptable. The first was the mirrors. They had seams on the TOP of both mirrors. Not only that but the seams were hand cut. It looked horrible. RPM Tesla showed me that they seam the mirror but on the inside where it’s not visible. Clear Pro in Murrieta took it a step further and redid the mirrors 5 times until they were able to do it with one piece and no seams! Really impressed. Next was the rear bumper where they had cut out the sensors. One of the sensors had some PPF that had lifted and dirt had penetrated about an inch from in the edge of the film. I told the owner that RPM Tesla covers all of their sensors when installing the film. While there have been isolated incidents where sensor malfunctions can occur when the sensors are covered, it is rare and can be handled on