Best Year/Model to Buy Used Model S

[David_Cary]

Wait a sec, a coil S is not "bumpy as hell". It is way more comfortable than a model 3.
Another thing, my 2015 charges slowly now too. So chargegate is not limited to 2012-2014.
If you don't know what chargegate is, you have no business looking for an older Tesla.

The door handles are a minor annoyance. They kept getting better through the years. I am out less than $100 for the 2 handles I fixed. But even having Tesla doing it, new is about $350 each so your total risk is just over $1000.

You can't afford MCU2 which is April 2018. Might be as low as $1250 to replace on older car - so again, relatively minor.

Don't forget, battery and DU have 8 year warranties. Mileage limited on some. So getting a 2015 means 2 more years covered. But then, a resale hit after 2 years.

 

[GTBrandon]

Wait a sec, a coil S is not "bumpy as hell". It is way more comfortable than a model 3.
Another thing, my 2015 charges slowly now too. So chargegate is not limited to 2012-2014.
If you don't know what chargegate is, you have no business looking for an older Tesla.

The door handles are a minor annoyance. They kept getting better through the years. I am out less than $100 for the 2 handles I fixed. But even having Tesla doing it, new is about $350 each so your total risk is just over $1000.

You can't afford MCU2 which is April 2018. Might be as low as $1250 to replace on older car - so again, relatively minor.

Don't forget, battery and DU have 8 year warranties. Mileage limited on some. So getting a 2015 means 2 more years covered. But then, a resale hit after 2 years.

To confirm on chargegate, was that only affecting cars with FUSC or was this across all models/years? As I dive more into the forums I’m coming across things like this, and would rather pay to charge at the full speed than be throttled down and get it for free.

 

[GTBrandon]

I agree that a 13/14 P85 that has had battery/motor, some door handles, etc. replaced is a good choice. If you want newer tech. My august 30th 2017 S75 is when lots of things became standard, and 0-60 decreased from 5.3s to 4.2s, and AP2.5 installed. Pre- late August/September 2017 S75 RWD cannot be uncorked, only S75D

Why can some s75’s be uncorked and others can’t? I found a pre-owned one through Tesla and the sales person said it could not be uncorked, yet it was a 2016 S75 RWD. It was my impression that any 16-17’ could be uncorked regardless of dual motor or single?

 

[jpk195]

Why can some s75’s be uncorked and others can’t?

I believe the 75s that can be uncorked have a different drive unit that was only manufactured near the end of the time they were made.

 

[DanCar]

If ever FSD graduates from f student driver, then your passengers might be disappointed they can't see the visualization on the center console. Model 3 and Y shine at this. Hopefully the new Model S doesn't have this deficiency.

 

[jjlawyer]

Figuring out if an S can be uncorked or not is more art than science because of the running changes that Tesla makes continually. For sure if you buy from Tesla and it lists 4.2 0-60, it is uncorked. You can also go with the VIN number and people are saying 130xxx and up can be uncorked but the later the better. Some say that you can uncork a RWD but not be as quick as a D uncorked. Also if you buy a car with MCU1 make sure it has a power liftgate or you wont be able to upgrade to MCU2.

 

[GTBrandon]

I would say 2013-2014 P85+
I have a 2014 P85+ and like it more than the newer ones.
Most of them would have had problems fixed, including motor replacement.

Have you experienced charging speeds being slowed or battery caps?

 

[GTBrandon]

You didnt really provide enough info for a good recommendation, especially how much range you need. It is also hard to know if you are coming from a Tesla model 3 or a BMW M3. Personally I think the sweet spot is a facelift 75D with AP1 that has been or can be uncorked. it will be faster than the M3, has decent range, autopilot, AWD, maybe free supercharging and facelift. Unless you frequently drive 300 road trips, the 230 mi in range will work just fine. Your OP seems to be very concerned with reliability. This is not the car for you if that is your primary concern but many of your listed trouble spots have been fixed by the time of the facelift. Dont worry about the MCU1 as that will likely be fixed with recall, or you can pay for an MCU2.

Is there any certainty on whether the 75D has the same issues with chargegate/battery gate that seems to be on the 85's? This seems to be art rather than science as well, but hoping to really narrow down my search parameters based on hopefully avoiding these issues.

 

[Need]

Is there any certainty on whether the 75D has the same issues with chargegate/battery gate that seems to be on the 85's? This seems to be art rather than science as well, but hoping to really narrow down my search parameters based on hopefully avoiding these issues.

I don't think 75D has any "chargegate" issue. I have a 2017 75D MX, and I don't have any slow down on supercharging that I could observe. I actually think the sweet spot on MS would be late 2016 75D MS. Late 2016 has the updated front bump, AP2.0, and transferable free supercharging. If you pay the $1500 to upgrade to MCU 2 (AP 3 upgrade is free with the MCU 2 upgrade), it would be just like new! And 2016 has the discontinued color of titanium if you could get that it will be like an unicorn.

 

[Flyguy]

Why can some s75’s be uncorked and others can’t? I found a pre-owned one through Tesla and the sales person said it could not be uncorked, yet it was a 2016 S75 RWD. It was my impression that any 16-17’ could be uncorked regardless of dual motor or single?

For some reason only S75 RWD that came from factory with faster 0-60 are available. I think because they started getting a “large” rear motor at that time. The 75d already has. 2 motors, so could be uncorked after leaving the factory

 

[GTBrandon]

For some reason only S75 RWD that came from factory with faster 0-60 are available. I think because they started getting a “large” rear motor at that time. The 75d already has. 2 motors, so could be uncorked after leaving the factory

Having a 75, what's your max distance and charge time at a supercharger? Curious if yours has been capped at a certain percentage SoC, or kW max at a supercharger.

 

[Dreamontom99]

I would not buy a used MS unless buying as an inventory vehicle from Tesla which is essentially still a new car with full warranty and a few thousand miles on it.

I say this because we are buying technology that happens to be a car. Just like I would only buy last years model TV or computer, but still as a new item.

Tesla is pushing the envelope and literally changing things on almost daily basis.

Instead of a used MS, I would buy a 3 or a Y now if I were in the market at the moment, a few of my reasons off the top of my head, certainly are more:
- battery and charging tech is much improved over pre-plaid MS, both up to 50% faster charging time and better range
- latest technology will be here, e.g. won’t have to deal with mcu1 or any other MS issues that you see cropping up in older MS.
- will be under warranty which is important for this new technology

Just my 2 cents - ymmv - that’s not to say that you can’t buy a used MS and it makes you happy, just be aware of what you’re getting into before hand!

I love my ‘16 MS P100D, recently did the MCU2 upgrade. Hopefully the future will bring a battery and charger upgrade option when our batteries are EOL. I also can’t wait for the Cybertruck!

Cheers and best of luck in your decision!

 

[Flyguy]

Having a 75, what's your max distance and charge time at a supercharger? Curious if yours has been capped at a certain percentage SoC, or kW max at a supercharger.

The 75’s have not been capped (yet) like earlier batteries. I rarely use superchargers but here is attached some screenshots from over the summer. 203 miles @90%

 

[Sunshine Speed]

Wait a sec, a coil S is not "bumpy as hell". It is way more comfortable than a model 3.

On smooth roads/suburbs, no problem, no bumps. But on Los Angeles city streets, my experience is that some coil Model S are really bumpy and bothersome to me, and others are less so. Agree with you that Model 3 is worse.

Another thing, my 2015 charges slowly now too. So chargegate is not limited to 2012-2014.

That's true, but chances are higher to have your battery charging slowed if you buy a 2012 to 2014, versus a 2015 to 2017. Can depend on battery type, revision, and how many times it has been supercharged over the years. I recommended getting a 75kwh battery with dual motor.

Don't forget, battery and DU have 8 year warranties. Mileage limited on some. So getting a 2015 means 2 more years covered. But then, a resale hit after 2 years.

Good point, the 8-year powertrain and motor and battery warranty should be heavily considered when buying used.

 

[David.85D]

Batterygate

chargergate

MCU1 Shenanigans

front fore links

rear lower arms

seat rocking

service experience from hell


There is no good used Tesla. If you think it’s a good deal, you haven’t evaluated the risk properly !

 

[jjlawyer]

To the OP, your title was asking for the best model and year to buy and the real answer is the most expensive and newest one. If you want to add best bang for the buck so value is a qualification, the consensus here is it's a 75D or maybe a new M3. But if you want an EV for for $30k and also want reliability, I see a Hyundai Kona or Chevy Bolt in your future. The cheapest Model S on ev-cpo is in the 30s. You can probably get a nice 75D for low 40s. These will have the best reliability the newer models, having sorted out the well known problems by then. Dont forget about the possible $250 per month for insurance.

 

[Plasmid_Boy]

Have you experienced charging speeds being slowed or battery caps?

No I haven't. At low SC it charges at about 120kw or 400 something mile/hr.

 

[Plasmid_Boy]

Oh and the second part of your question, battery cap. The P85+ has 260 miles of range. But that was after the BSM was replaced and not sure if they also replaced the battery (did not mention on the invoice). Before that it was 256 miles (or something around there)

 

[GTBrandon]

To the OP, your title was asking for the best model and year to buy and the real answer is the most expensive and newest one. If you want to add best bang for the buck so value is a qualification, the consensus here is it's a 75D or maybe a new M3. But if you want an EV for for $30k and also want reliability, I see a Hyundai Kona or Chevy Bolt in your future. The cheapest Model S on ev-cpo is in the 30s. You can probably get a nice 75D for low 40s. These will have the best reliability the newer models, having sorted out the well known problems by then. Dont forget about the possible $250 per month for insurance.

Ha, the day I upgrade from a BMW M3 to a Chevy Bolt is the day you can take my drivers license away.

Luckily I'm already used to the $250ish range for insurance on the BMW, so no big changes there.

I've seen a few 75's pop up here for sale at the $30k mark, as well as many more 85's. Is the consensus though to avoid an 85 for the chargegate and battery gate? That's what it seems to be. It's kind of crazy to me that 85's are cheaper than 75's

 

[jjlawyer]

A BMW M3 guy will be much happier with a 75D than an 85.