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Blacking Out Chrome moldings

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Hi everyone I am a soon to be tesla owner. I have placed my order and I am looking at a late May early June delivery. The only thing I don't like about my tesla is the amount of chrome it has on it. I am coming from a BMW 435i M sport which came from the factory with no chrome which I loved. I am curious if any of you guys/gals have any experience with wrapping or painting the chrome molding's? And if anyone has done this how do they recommend it? Is it holding up? Also if anyone who has done this could tell me how much they paid that would be great also. Thanks everyone the wait it killing me :)
 
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See post 663 with my pearl white MS. I had mine done just last week. Cant speak to a long time frame, but good so far after one wash. They recommend hand wash or touchless only. The only hard part are the mirrors, everything else is easy. Expect to pay $1k to $1,800 to do all the chrome on the car. I went with the 3m 1080 product, but Avery is good as well. I am very pleased how it turned out and changed the attitude of the car in just the right way.
 
Im in the same boat as you just placed my order and plan to black out the chrome as well as wrap the whole car with a paint protective film from 3m. The shop quoted me 500 to wrap all chrome on the car to black but hey haven't seen a refreshed car so id suspect the price could change up or down depending... For example the older cars had chrome on the rear diffuser but the new ones don't... I might be getting a better price because I'm already wrapping the whole car with them... Also called a few other shops one wanted to paint all the chrome and wanted 1500 for that vs the wrap.
 
Hi everyone I am a soon to be tesla owner. I have placed my order and I am looking at a late May early June delivery. The only thing I don't like about my tesla is the amount of chrome it has on it. I am coming from a BMW 435i M sport which came from the factory with no chrome which I loved. I am curious if any of you guys/gals have any experience with wrapping or painting the chrome molding's? And if anyone has done this how do they recommend it? Is it holding up? Also if anyone who has done this could tell me how much they paid that would be great also. Thanks everyone the wait it killing me :)

I had a friend who does it for a living, dechrome my Model S in satin black in July 2015. I helped him some and I saw how much work was involved to do it right. Wrapping the chrome around the mirrors was especially challenging just because of all the curves and moving parts. I'm happy to say it's holding up very well 10 months later! I paid around $1000.
 
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We offer chrome delete services. It's a time consuming and meticulous process to do correctly but once done it holds up well if quality materials are used. In our case we offer a one year warranty on the work and the vinyl used comes with it's own warranty as well

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+1 for Vinyl Styles in Belmont, CA. Multiple users here have told me they do quality job. I had mines done somewhere else for $350 (window sidings, mirror, handles and rear appliqué). so far it's still holding up after two years but would like to re-do my mirrors.

IMHO, it looks better without the chrome. I'm biased of course. ;)

 
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We offer chrome delete services. It's a time consuming and meticulous process to do correctly but once done it holds up well if quality materials are used. In our case we offer a one year warranty on the work and the vinyl used comes with it's own warranty as well

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How much do you guys charge for wrapping the chrome on the tesla? Also if you do protective clear bra's I would also be interested in that as well.
 
How difficult is it to wrap vinyl? Is it DIY?
I suggest Youtube University if you're fairly handy. There are two kinds of wraps, 'wet apply' (Xpel, Suntek, et al) and 'dry apply' (most newer opaque wraps). Dry is a little more challenging and you should have at least two people to lay the wrap, although there are tricks like 'hinging' it. (peel off a little on one side to stick, then peel from the other side) It's still unstick-repositionable. Heat gun to conform, doing as little stretching as possible. Plastic squeegee (ideally with felt edge) to fasten, then for 'dry apply', heat hot to bond. Best to remove the parts you want to wrap if they're practically removable. For wet and dry, allow a week to bond before waxing.

The fast-and-dirty shops use templates of your car to cut out the shapes of pieces from a bulk roll. (and it costs them alot to use the templates) These are easy, but do not wrap around edges and may come dislodged over time (car washes), so I prefer cutting larger pieces out of bulk rolls to custom cut and wrap around edges. And wrapped edges should be primed with 3M tape primer for far better stiction.

Problems are: particles ending up under the wrap causing bumps (or white spots for transparent), which is why hinging is a good method to reduce that. Clay wipe (there are clay wipes - auto body supply) the whole surface right before application.

Surface chips or deeper scratches will show through any wrap, so polishing (with a random-orbital) is a good idea. For transparent wrap any surface flaws (swirls) will be enhanced, so once again polish and use a single-source light to find swirls, especially on darker colors. Key to polishing is to keep the pad clean. I use a microfiber cover over the pad and change it when it gets dirty; or if you have an air gun you might be able to blow off the pad.
(he's pretty proud of his toy, but ignore that)

To apply wet-apply you use two spray bottles:
- Tack (adhesive side): 15% of 70% isopropyl alcohol
- Slip (outside): 2-4 drops of johnsons baby shampoo

What brand of wrap is the next question. 3M has a rather bad reputation for quality on wrapper's forums, which came as quite a surprise to me. So I bought Xpel and Avery. Brushed metal wraps (like my Brushed Steel) only have a lifetime of a couple years, so I'll be applying Opticoat Pro+ to it to make it last, if I can find someone who will sell it to me. "Opticoat Gloss" is the consumer version, but it only lasts a couple years, and dealers are prohibited from selling Pro+ to civilians, for cartel reasons.

And that's all their secrets.
 
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How difficult is it to wrap vinyl? Is it DIY?

IMHO, I definitely wouldn't call it a DIY job for most people. Experience and technique certainly play a big part in how it is applied. How the edges are handled make a big difference in how well it will hold up over time. That being said, if one had the time, patience, and money to redo panels several times then I think it would be something some people could take on as a project.
 
Wrapping the trim can be a DIY job, if you are handy and a quick learner.

My first experience with wrap was wrapping my P85D trim. I watched several online videos and started slowly with the simple stuff (the straight trim pieces).

I decided two pieces needed to be redone, but am very pleased with the results.

First warning: the chrome around the mirrors and door handles are very difficult. I plan to redo the chrome on the mirrors when I get my LH sound system and have the doors taken apart. The mirrors really need to be disassembled to get a professional quality job.

Second warning: there are lots of tools needed that will significantly drive up the cost if you don't already own them. I needed to purchase squeegees, knifeless tape, adhesion promoter, edge sealer, and wrapping gloves. I already had a high end break-away knife, heat gun, IR temp gun, nylon trim removal tools, assorted nylon picks (similar to dental or clay sculpting tools) and probably a few other things I'm not remembering off the top of my head.

It is very understandable why people take their cars to a pro to get dechromed, especially if they have jobs.

Final warning: If you do it yourself, and it turns out well, expect to get lots of requests to help friends dechrome their cars.
 
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Need to remove the door handles and mirrors whether you're doing chrome delete or wrapping the door panels. I think it's important to wrap around the edges.

I don't see any need for knifeless tape; no cutting should be done on surface areas. Precut and dry fit if you have a special pattern.
 
Those are some nice chrome deletes...

I've done it myself, using PlastiDip. It was A LOT CHEAPER, around a couple hundred bucks, and it's clean as hell. 3rd time I've done it this time actually, first was orange (did the whole car orange), then matte black, and now white. It's beautiful, and would definitely recommend it.