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Coat hangers... Yikes.

Use a 14 gauge insulated electrical wire that you can bend into a very smooth loop with no burrs. I pulled my wire as a single from a 3 wire exterior Romex. You will need to file down the tips. The insulation helps to protect all the other wires that are super sensitive.

Use extreme caution when doing this. Take it very slow. It just might need one beer or a glass of wine, as it is a slow and deliberate process. I know it sounds weird, but it really did reduce my stress....

Slow and steady wins the race every time.

Oh don't worry, I didn't touch anything with the coat hanger when going through the hose of doom, just when trying to get through the aluminum voids where (I thought/hope) there were no other cables. :/
 
I mentioned this somewhere, may even be earlier in this thread...

I installed a GPS repeater: Amazon.com: GPS Antenna Receiver Repeater: GPS & Navigation
I placed the "external" antenna in the trunk, just in front of the footwell cover, and placed the cover over the cable to hold it in place. I placed the internal antenna under the front seat. I get a GPS lock 100% of the time within 60 seconds of powering up and/or exiting an underground parking garage.
I finally bought this repeater, which arrived today. They did not include any adapters or instructions. Both black boxes say "GPS Antenna". I imagine that the one with the short USB cord is the transmitter, while the one with the really long cord is the receiver? It says the voltage is 5V. I wonder if I could power it from the USB port and not the lighter (I use the lighter to power my phone charger. Much faster).
 
I finally bought this repeater, which arrived today. They did not include any adapters or instructions. Both black boxes say "GPS Antenna". I imagine that the one with the short USB cord is the transmitter, while the one with the really long cord is the receiver? It says the voltage is 5V. I wonder if I could power it from the USB port and not the lighter (I use the lighter to power my phone charger. Much faster).
Mine came with a cig lighter plug with 2 USB ports on it. I forget the exact number, but the current draw is minuscule, maybe 50 ma, so you can go directly into a USB port.

Yes, the shorter end with the USB is the transmitter that goes up front.
 
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Sure as Mobe said above, I found a blown 5v fuse. The fuse panel appears to be a new design for the Facelift S, but I checked all the 5v fuses and one the bottom right one is blown.

View attachment 180811
View attachment 180812

Now to test it with the new fuse.

EDIT: That fixed it. BlackVue works perfectly now. But it begs the question, why was the fuse blown in the first place?

I am also trying to install the dashcam using the spare connector in the mic. Checked with multimeter and i don't see any voltage on the 12v pin. so possibly a blown fuse. where does one find a spare fuse or do i need to buy one? any ideas on where to buy?

edit: mine is a AP2.0 2016 car. took delivery earlier this week.
 
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I am also trying to install the dashcam using the spare connector in the mic. Checked with multimeter and i don't see any voltage on the 12v pin. so possibly a blown fuse. where does one find a spare fuse or do i need to buy one? any ideas on where to buy?

edit: mine is a AP2.0 2016 car. took delivery earlier this week.

I'm interested to find out if you found any switched 12V power in the mic area. (I'm planning to install a Thinkware, which benefits from having a switched power source to prevent continuous recording).
 
Received my 2016 Tesla on Friday and installed my dashcam today
I used these parts to make a custom cable that plugs into the extra power cable that Tesla put behind the mic grill (yes my new car had it! Thank you Tesla)

Here are the parts I used
Amazon.com: DIGITEN Inline 16 AWG Blade ATM Mini Fuse Holder for Car Boat Truck with 30cm cable (pack of 3): Automotive
Amazon.com: 1.3mm x 3.5mm x 11.2mm Plug with 6 feet Cord: Electronics
Amazon.com: StarTech.com FAN4EXT12 12in 4 Pin Fan Power Extension Cable - M/F: Electronics

On the custom cable: Black was power and yellow was ground.

I used the pry tool blackvue put in and unclipped the rear view mirror. Unlike some installation guides online, I did not have to completely remove the rear view mirror area. There was just enough room to fish the two wires through the headliner after unclipping it. I used two zip ties connected together to get it through. This was much simpler than what I saw online.

Here is my install. I still have to run the back camera wire.

Its really a simple installation for the front camera. Not worth spending $200 on it. The cable took me longer to make than it did to install it. If you dont mind a bit of soldering, its pretty simple to do. If you dont want to solder you can use these things. Wago 222-412 LEVER-NUTS 2 Conductor Compact Connectors 50 PK - - Amazon.com
 

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I was trying the same but my mic grill connector 12v wire shows no voltage (the middle wire shows 10v) --so possibly a blown fuse. Does anyone know where the fuse box location and fuse box number for this point on the 2016 AP2.0 model S

thanks


Received my 2016 Tesla on Friday and installed my dashcam today
I used these parts to make a custom cable that plugs into the extra power cable that Tesla put behind the mic grill (yes my new car had it! Thank you Tesla)

Here are the parts I used
Amazon.com: DIGITEN Inline 16 AWG Blade ATM Mini Fuse Holder for Car Boat Truck with 30cm cable (pack of 3): Automotive
Amazon.com: 1.3mm x 3.5mm x 11.2mm Plug with 6 feet Cord: Electronics
Amazon.com: StarTech.com FAN4EXT12 12in 4 Pin Fan Power Extension Cable - M/F: Electronics

On the custom cable: Black was power and yellow was ground.

I used the pry tool blackvue put in and unclipped the rear view mirror. Unlike some installation guides online, I did not have to completely remove the rear view mirror area. There was just enough room to fish the two wires through the headliner after unclipping it. I used two zip ties connected together to get it through. This was much simpler than what I saw online.

Here is my install. I still have to run the back camera wire.

Its really a simple installation for the front camera. Not worth spending $200 on it. The cable took me longer to make than it did to install it. If you dont mind a bit of soldering, its pretty simple to do. If you dont want to solder you can use these things. Wago 222-412 LEVER-NUTS 2 Conductor Compact Connectors 50 PK - - Amazon.com
 
I was trying the same but my mic grill connector 12v wire shows no voltage (the middle wire shows 10v) --so possibly a blown fuse. Does anyone know where the fuse box location and fuse box number for this point on the 2016 AP2.0 model S

thanks
It seems like it might be under the hood.
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/attachments/img_1329-jpg.114666/
Check your manual its in there

Side note: My multimeter showed a 14v output on the wire you are supposed to use
 
the fuse info is not present in the manual (pdf/on screen) . Tesla has removed it? also the frunk after removing the top panel looks different from the pictures in the post.

think i will have to go the OBD route to get the 12v constant supply.


Check this thread
New fuse box design? (RHD, Jul/Aug15 produce)

It also shows where to find the fuse box in the manual. Just scroll down the page a bit
 
is it possible for you to post few pics of the step below? how to unclip the rear view mirror..

thanks..

"
I used the pry tool blackvue put in and unclipped the rear view mirror. Unlike some installation guides online, I did not have to completely remove the rear view mirror area. There was just enough room to fish the two wires through the headliner after unclipping it. I used two zip ties connected together to get it through. This was much simpler than what I saw online."
 
is it possible for you to post few pics of the step below? how to unclip the rear view mirror..

thanks..

"
I used the pry tool blackvue put in and unclipped the rear view mirror. Unlike some installation guides online, I did not have to completely remove the rear view mirror area. There was just enough room to fish the two wires through the headliner after unclipping it. I used two zip ties connected together to get it through. This was much simpler than what I saw online."
I dont have any pictures. I just put the tool between the glass and plastic and twisted. It unclipped that way
 
I have some updates on the rear camera install. Running the wire to the back and through the boot was a piece of cake.
Use a coat hanger! The coat hanger works much better than any of my other fishing tools. Its thin and easy to maneuver around. I had no problem getting it from the sunroof area to the side. I ran it ABOVE the air bag when fishing the wire to the passenger side

Getting it to the back was simple. I used the pry tool to push it into the a B pillar than ran it to the back all behind the weatherstripping.

Now here is where I spent most of my time!

You must remove the C pillar. There is one Torx screw holding the black plastic piece in the trunk area . Remove the screw and the panel pops off. Now the Alcantra c pillar will snap off. Its just held in by a few clips

I removed the boot and fished the rear camera wire from the inside through the boot. This was very simple. Running the wire from the front to this point was 20 minutes.

The following part is where I spent 2 hours!

Getting the wire from the boot area to the center of the glass. I was able to feed the coat hanger through the gaps in the metal but I COULD NOT fish the rear camera wire back out. The plug tip was too thick. I spent 2 hours trying every method possible and found no solution

Finally I settled on this: I cut the tip and fished it through within a minute. Im going to buy a new MCX tip and just make a new plug myself. I was able to push all the excess wire into the metal gaps in the trunk lid.

You will need an MCX connector made for RG-174 COAX CABLE.

Before cutting the wire I did google and found no other solution. Someone else actually came up with the same conclusion I did. Hopefully I didnt miss something and have to regret cutting that tip

Making a new connection tip beats drilling into your car

Here are the MCX connectors I just bought
10 x MCX Angle Male plug L Type connector RG316 RG174 RF cable crimp solder | eBay
 
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I just finished installing a BlackVue 650S 2CH on my MS AP2. The front camera is super easy to install, I cut the power cable that came with the Dashcam and adapted it on a PC power cable.

My MS had 3 cables on the adapter up in the Mic grill, the combination that worked for me was the Black and Red/Black.
IMG_0846.JPG


Passing the cable to the rear of the car to install the other camera was a lot of work, especially from the headline to the trunk door. I used some bike cable tools to help on this process.

IMG_0848.JPG


IMG_0850.JPG

IMG_0851.JPG
 
I just finished installing a BlackVue 650S 2CH on my MS AP2. The front camera is super easy to install, I cut the power cable that came with the Dashcam and adapted it on a PC power cable.

My MS had 3 cables on the adapter up in the Mic grill, the combination that worked for me was the Black and Red/Black.
View attachment 208271

Passing the cable to the rear of the car to install the other camera was a lot of work, especially from the headline to the trunk door. I used some bike cable tools to help on this process.

View attachment 208272

View attachment 208273
View attachment 208274


How did you get it from the boot to the center of the glass? Did you just leave it hanging out of the boot ?
 
How did you get it from the boot to the center of the glass? Did you just leave it hanging out of the boot ?

I read your post and I had the same problem as you. The plug would not pass from the side of the boot to the center, so I just left it there. But I am super interested to know if your approach of rebuilding the plug connector will work. If it works I will do the same. I hated leaving that cable there.