Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

BlackVue DR750S-2CH install - step by step guide

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Just an FYI Ive always heard its better to pull through the passenger side of the car / trunk because there are less cables in the passthrough to the trunk hatch. Ive also gathered from others posts that the radio hardware for your key is on the drivers side and you don't want to add any interference to that system...
 
  • Like
Reactions: MSDadMich
Just an FYI Ive always heard its better to pull through the passenger side of the car / trunk because there are less cables in the passthrough to the trunk hatch
I have compared both sides before undertaking this project, as I've seen mixed opinions. In my car the wire bundle on the left side is definitely smaller than on the right. Good point though, maybe it varies depending on the equipment options? My car has EAP/FSD, PUP and upgraded sound package, so I doubt there is any more wires than this :)
Ive also gathered from others posts that the radio hardware for your key is on the drivers side and you don't want to add any interference to that system...
Do you know where on the driver side exactly? The coax cable runs right under the roof line.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Plugsuvohio
So, I was intrigued by what @Tech_Guy mentioned regarding radio interference. I could not find anything in particular about other than this older thread om TMC:
an important note about the key fob and RF interference.

I don't think coaxial cable from dash cam even remotely compares to the antenna setup on the mountain though. Also, when the key fob is low on battery or cannot be detected it is advised to place it near the passenger side windshield wiper mount - wouldn't that be the actual spot closer to where the transmitter might be?

In any case, I have had the camera mounted on my car for almost a month now and I have not had any issue with locking/unlocking the car, streaming music, getting GPS signal etc. The coaxial cable from the dash cam is shielded as well, so the interference (if any) should be kept to minimum. If that changes I will be glad to report otherwise.
 
I dug through some threads on the forum this morning and I think its more related to installers that didn't RTFM and cut the shielded coax cord to the rear camera thus un shielding the cable. Also found reports that older blackvue modes (550) had an issue with the included coax not being shielded enough. The reported issues I found were related to charge port and key fob interference which we can assume is more likely related to a damaged rear camera wire. However its worth mentioning that the cable for the rear charge port antenna and key fob is located in the driver side hatch passthrough and the antenna is in the rear glass driver side, they should all be shielded but you can minimize the chance of interference on your install by just running the camera cord though the passenger side vs the driver side hatch passthrough.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MSDadMich
Here is my take on the installation of the dual channel dash camera system in Model S:
BlackVue DR750S-2CH installation in 2017 Tesla Model S

I managed to install the rear camera without removing the large piece of trim from the tailgate, so if that was a show stopper for some, hope you will find the above instructions useful.

Comments are welcome!
Very nice writeup. Pictures are very clean and the instructions are easy to understand. Thanks for taking the time to do this!

I've already bought my Blackvue for my upcoming 3. Looking forward to installing it soon!
 
Very nice writeup. Pictures are very clean and the instructions are easy to understand. Thanks for taking the time to do this!

I've already bought my Blackvue for my upcoming 3. Looking forward to installing it soon!
Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to make sure to cover all the steps, even if trivial. Hope people find it useful.
 
I dug through some threads on the forum this morning and I think its more related to installers that didn't RTFM and cut the shielded coax cord to the rear camera thus un shielding the cable. Also found reports that older blackvue modes (550) had an issue with the included coax not being shielded enough. The reported issues I found were related to charge port and key fob interference which we can assume is more likely related to a damaged rear camera wire. However its worth mentioning that the cable for the rear charge port antenna and key fob is located in the driver side hatch passthrough and the antenna is in the rear glass driver side, they should all be shielded but you can minimize the chance of interference on your install by just running the camera cord though the passenger side vs the driver side hatch passthrough.
Thanks for digging through this as well :) Yes, this makes perfect sense that broken shielding on the coax could introduce unwanted interference.
 
Great write-up!

Just did my install yesterday and had a bit of trouble passing the cable through the headliner at the front near the rear view mirror. The housing for the AP2 cameras came loose and it sounds like a clip came off inside. I need to pull the housing off to look inside but not sure how to go about it and don't want to damage the finish. Looks like the U shaped piece on the bottom comes off first but don't want to force/pry too much. Found some disassembly pictures for the AP1 housing but not AP2.

I tried doing the method of not pulling the big liftgate panel off but my wire puller was getting stuck so ended up taking it off. Gave me a chance to address some rattles coming from that area anyway. Was able to get the panel back on without any assistance, the hardest part is once you have one side clipped in and go to clip the other side the first side likes to pop out. Solved this by clipping one side in then replacing the screw on that side before trying to clip in the other side, made the whole thing pretty simple.
 
Just did my install yesterday and had a bit of trouble passing the cable through the headliner at the front near the rear view mirror. The housing for the AP2 cameras came loose and it sounds like a clip came off inside. I need to pull the housing off to look inside but not sure how to go about it and don't want to damage the finish. Looks like the U shaped piece on the bottom comes off first but don't want to force/pry too much. Found some disassembly pictures for the AP1 housing but not AP2.
I used the flat plastic tip of the steel fishing tape to find my way between the glass and headliner. I used my left hand to try to pass it through and the right to pull the headliner down a bit (it is pretty elastic). At first I thought of tucking the wires beneath the front camera housing but I really didn't want to mess with the cover.
I saw some videos of removing the lower U-shaped piece - it looked easy, but really didn't want to take any unnecessary risks and damaging it.
I tried doing the method of not pulling the big liftgate panel off but my wire puller was getting stuck so ended up taking it off. Gave me a chance to address some rattles coming from that area anyway. Was able to get the panel back on without any assistance, the hardest part is once you have one side clipped in and go to clip the other side the first side likes to pop out. Solved this by clipping one side in then replacing the screw on that side before trying to clip in the other side, made the whole thing pretty simple.
Ah, my steel rod got stuck at first too. By pulling the trim away from the metal it was easier. If you have someone with small(er) hands around I would imagine they can grab it through the handle opening and pull it out.

When I was still considering to remove the large trim I thought I would suspend it using blue tape to the lift gate, so I don't need to carry the weight of the trim when unplug/plug the wires. Glad I didn't have to go through that ordeal after all.
 
I saw those, the AP2 has a different housing design. It doesn't split down the center like that. Looks like the bottom piece comes off first, then the mirror detaches then the main housing can slide off. Don't want to start prying till I see exactly how it comes apart.
Ah, I haven't even examine if this was different housing between the two APs - just didn't want to mess with it, period. Let me know what you find.
 
Just an FYI Ive always heard its better to pull through the passenger side of the car / trunk because there are less cables in the passthrough to the trunk hatch. Ive also gathered from others posts that the radio hardware for your key is on the drivers side and you don't want to add any interference to that system...
@Tech_Guy: Based on your feedback and others' I have modified the guide to reflect running the rear camera wire along the passenger side. If people are to follow, I want to make sure they do it right while avoiding any interference.

Thanks again!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MSDadMich