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Bluetooth Not Connecting Automatically

Car: Tesla 2021 Model 3 RWD
Phone: iPhone 12 Pro

I feel like I've seen this a few places, so about 6 months ago the problem started -- every now and then when I entered my Model 3 it would have trouble connecting automatically, but no problem whatsoever when I went to the "Connect Phone" button on my Tesla to manually connect it myself. This problem started increasing in frequency to the point where just simply opening the car door would lead to my phone getting disconnected and then me needing to manually connect it via the "connect phone" button again. I'd say now it's at the point where it's around 75% of the time where I enter the car that I need to manually connect it.

I have also made sure that it's not simply a matter of taking a bit longer to connect by driving for 15+ minutes, and it still never connects. I have also restarted both my phone and the Tesla on multiple occasions with no changes. I've also re-done the Bluetooth connection with my phone (by forgetting the device and then re-connecting), still not fixed. I should also note that I am hyper vigilant with updates for my car, phone, and Tesla app.

So after dealing with this problem for months and it continuing to get worse, I finally set up a service appointment with Tesla on the app for Friday, and yesterday I got this text message from them:
"It seems like this is an updated change we introduced in firmware version 2020.8.

“Bluetooth now connects to your paired phone only after you are sitting in the driver’s seat and all doors are closed”.

Other than that, the Bluetooth system seems healthy." Then they said they were going to cancel the service appointment as a result.

I'm confused by why they sent that message to me, since the update they were referring to came before I even received my car (in December 2020), so I don't see how that problem could be correlated whatsoever. Curious if anyone else here has had the same problem, and figured out a solution. Thanks!
 
I am having exactly the same problem and have done everything you have tried w the same spotty results. The issue is be I fun extremely annoying. I have yet to set up a service appointment but am about too
I got mobile service to come out yesterday, they confirmed the issue and told me that I needed to bring it in to the service center so that they could fix it there.
 

onshi

Member
Jul 23, 2018
81
55
NYC
I have the same issue with Bluetooth not automatically connecting to my phone for audio purposes. But also when I shut the door it seems to disconnect Bluetooth altogether. It won’t even detect the Tesla app on my phone. Pressing the screen doesn’t wake my Model 3. The only way I’m able to “wake”/reconnect from this state is to open the door again, press the accelerator pedal, or going into the Tesla app and pressing the lock icon. Tapping the screen or pressing the park button does nothing.

My “workaround” to prevent the Bluetooth connection from being completely lost is to either press the lock icon on the touchscreen while the door is open or press the accelerator pedal while the door is still open. So shutting the door seems to be the step that causes the bug to occur.

I’m using an iPhone 13 Pro Max on latest firmware and I have a Model 3 Performance 2020
 
Same problem here (iPhone 12 Pro, 2020 Tesla Model Y, latest SW update installed on iPhone & Tesla). I spoke with Tesla support by phone (01/14/2022) and they have no solution nor recommendations. Not even a workaround. IOW, Tesla does not even seem to acknowledge that this is a problem. Arg!
 
Same problem here (iPhone 12 Pro, 2020 Tesla Model Y, latest SW update installed on iPhone & Tesla). I spoke with Tesla support by phone (01/14/2022) and they have no solution nor recommendations. Not even a workaround. IOW, Tesla does not even seem to acknowledge that this is a problem. Arg!
I have essentially the same setup, iphone 12 & 2020 Model Y, and the same problem. I used to be able to walk up to the car it it would unlock and walk away and it would unlock... now I need to do everything manually. Can't tell what changed.
 
I've been struggling with the same behavior over the couple of months. Both my previous Note 8 and my new Pixel 6 did/do it. Both failing to connect automatically, and disconnecting if I open the door and get out to grab something from the trunk or my mailbox. I had been hoping connecting a new phone might fix the problem. It's gotten to where at least half the time I have to use the manual connect.

I'm also noticing that the car is now twitchy about shutting down. I pick up my mail as I drive home and usually don't bother with my seatbelt to drive the short way to the driveway. Now when I do that, sometimes the car will shut down (put itself in park and move my seat to the easy entry position) when I stop at the stop sign. It also happens at work when I have to move my car into or out of the charging spaces in the middle of the day. I've taken to using my seat belt to move the car over 10 spaces to avoid the issue.
 
One question on this thread, how many people are using pin-to-drive security?
My Tesla 2018 LR RWD has not been connecting to Audio since very early on after receiving in 2018. I had an appt fix a few issues in 2019 with this being one and the mobile service tech couldn't reproduce. He said to open a service ticket for the service center when it came back. I have just lived with intermittent BT auto-connectivity this whole time. It auto-connects around 50% of the time, the other time I have to manually connect via the BT menu. Once connected either way it will stay connected during a drive.
I just took it into service today and luckily the the check-in service person was able to reproduce the "no connection" for both attempts. She was still completely skeptical even after seeing it with her own eyes twice, so I guess it is a fairly rare issue. I just got a resechedule appt in the Tesla app at the end of the day so hopefully they will replacing the BT module which one mobile tech said was a separate module to be replaced. Will keep you posted. For the question above about pin-to-drive, it does seem to help reduce the auto-connect issues but they still happen but with lower frequency.
I have an iPhone 11 with latest firmware, this also happened with my previous iPhone.
 
Here's some more data after looking more in the forums:
The Bluetooth connections (you will see multiple with names like Sdf52c35....) are the "phone as key" connections.
There are two types of bluetooth being used to connect a mobile phone to the car for two different features and use different Bluetooth modules.

Regular bluetooth is used to connect for for phone calls, audio, sharing calendars, etc.

Bluetooth LE (low emissions) is used for Phone as Key, and will show up with bluetooth connections.

One issue/requirement is that you have to be seated in the driver's seat with all the doors closed for the Bluetooth Audio to connect. The member @Ravier reported that Tesla replaced their seat because the weight sensor was not working. After the replacement their issue was fixed. There was an update a while back that made it so the car wouldn’t connect to your phone unless someone was in the driver's seat. This could be your issue @davewill as the seat weight sensor will also put the car in park if it doesn't recognize a person in the driver's seat.
 
...

One issue/requirement is that you have to be seated in the driver's seat with all the doors closed for the Bluetooth Audio to connect. The member @Ravier reported that Tesla replaced their seat because the weight sensor was not working. After the replacement their issue was fixed. There was an update a while back that made it so the car wouldn’t connect to your phone unless someone was in the driver's seat. This could be your issue @davewill as the seat weight sensor will also put the car in park if it doesn't recognize a person in the driver's seat.
You may have something there. The seat switch does work, as lifting my rear can make the car shut down, but it could certainly be intermittent, or have some other fault. There have certainly been times when it seemed to happen because I leaned a bit to grab something in the glovebox or to reach into the center console. For all I know there could be multiple switches, and only one of them is faulty. It still doesn't entirely explain why I can drive away, but the BT Audio doesn't connect until I manually connect it. If the car believes I'm there to drive, it should believe I'm there for BT.

Are you sure about needing a butt in seat and doors closed? I've certainly left a door open in the garage and played BT music while I'm doing things outside of the car.

To answer your other question, I do use PIN to drive. Letting anyone who manages to snag my phone also steal my car really doesn't appeal to me. I suppose there could be an interaction there as well, although I think it's possible to connct audio and start my music before putting the PIN in. I always found it odd when it would let me open the door and enter the pin, then ask for me to scan the key card when I put my foot on the brake to put it in drive, however that behavior pretty much went away with the new phone (or perhaps with a software update, who can tell?)
 
Lots of possible variables at play here, just seeing if there was any common thread P2D (Pin to Drive) or the seat weight function. About a year ago I turned off pin to drive for awhile and BT seemed to connect more often. I don't really want to be forced to keep a log of every time it does and doesn't work but it seems like that is the only way the issue will be proven and resolved. I just don't know if that commitment is worth getting BT working at a higher rate or just stick with manually connecting 50% of the time.
I got my car back from the Service Center and really no report and it isn't fixed. A new SC appointment was scheduled a month from now though. I'm assuming they ordered a part and will be replacing possibly the module that runs the BT for audio & phone calls. I'll post an update after that appt.
 
Car: Tesla 2021 Model 3 RWD
Phone: iPhone 12 Pro

I feel like I've seen this a few places, so about 6 months ago the problem started -- every now and then when I entered my Model 3 it would have trouble connecting automatically, but no problem whatsoever when I went to the "Connect Phone" button on my Tesla to manually connect it myself. This problem started increasing in frequency to the point where just simply opening the car door would lead to my phone getting disconnected and then me needing to manually connect it via the "connect phone" button again. I'd say now it's at the point where it's around 75% of the time where I enter the car that I need to manually connect it.

I have also made sure that it's not simply a matter of taking a bit longer to connect by driving for 15+ minutes, and it still never connects. I have also restarted both my phone and the Tesla on multiple occasions with no changes. I've also re-done the Bluetooth connection with my phone (by forgetting the device and then re-connecting), still not fixed. I should also note that I am hyper vigilant with updates for my car, phone, and Tesla app.

So after dealing with this problem for months and it continuing to get worse, I finally set up a service appointment with Tesla on the app for Friday, and yesterday I got this text message from them:
"It seems like this is an updated change we introduced in firmware version 2020.8.

“Bluetooth now connects to your paired phone only after you are sitting in the driver’s seat and all doors are closed”.

Other than that, the Bluetooth system seems healthy." Then they said they were going to cancel the service appointment as a result.

I'm confused by why they sent that message to me, since the update they were referring to came before I even received my car (in December 2020), so I don't see how that problem could be correlated whatsoever. Curious if anyone else here has had the same problem, and figured out a solution. Thanks!
I figured out the problem after reading another website, here is the issue...........................there needs to be two connections to your cellphone (1) for Bluetooth for the functions such are music, streaming, etc. and this will show up on your cellphone as Tesla and the model. (2) is under "Locks" and this is for your key card access features, this connection will show numbers and letters under your cellphones Network - Bluetooth. You need to have the (2) connection in order to resolve the key card issue. So I suggest that you remove old Bluetooth connections from both your cell and vehicle, remove Tesla app, then reload the most current Tesla app and then add your cell as a new key card from the "Locks" menu. Then select the Bluetooth icon on car and add your cellphone.
Hope this helps everyone understand the issue better and how to fix it.
 
Lots of possible variables at play here, just seeing if there was any common thread P2D (Pin to Drive) or the seat weight function. About a year ago I turned off pin to drive for awhile and BT seemed to connect more often. I don't really want to be forced to keep a log of every time it does and doesn't work but it seems like that is the only way the issue will be proven and resolved. I just don't know if that commitment is worth getting BT working at a higher rate or just stick with manually connecting 50% of the time.
I got my car back from the Service Center and really no report and it isn't fixed. A new SC appointment was scheduled a month from now though. I'm assuming they ordered a part and will be replacing possibly the module that runs the BT for audio & phone calls. I'll post an update after that appt.
Do you happen to have an update after your appointment? Or was answer #13 here the solution?
 
Since my last post, in January, it has gotten better. it has slowly been better over the past couple of months. I would say it connects about 50% of the time now. version 2022.8.2, iphone 13 pro, ios 15.3.1
Thx.
50% is also my hit rate. Not good enough. Tried solution of post #13, still no change.
That’s why I have scheduled a SC appointment for end of april.

I think that I have found the root cause.
The seat weight sensor of driver seat not functioning properly.
When I step into the car and close the door, the main screen gets black and stays black until I hit the break pedal.
In other words, the car seat doesn’t recognize me properly and Bluetooth does not connect to my Smartphone.
That’s however a definite prerequisite for a successful Bluetooth connection.
If however, directly after the black screen, I do not hit the break but jump once or twice with my butt on the seat, the screen turns on again and Bluetooth connection with Smartphone is established.
Let’s wait and see what SC says🙃
 
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After a few appointment reschedules (for various reasons mine and theirs) my car is in the SC today. This is the service estimate part list. I will update afterwards for success or no success.
Correction: Antenna - Bluetooth Passive Entry - remove and replace antenna $120
Parts Replaced or Added:
CABLE,RH BODY,BT $23.00 WIFI TO MCU(1099704-00-C)
1ST ROW DRIVER $11.00 OCCUPANCY SENSOR(1099592-00- D)
 
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The above SC appointment fixed the issue, I wanted to give it a week before I reported back. I can't say if it was all of the parts or just one, but the issue got resolved. One thing I also realized is that when I get in the car I immediately go for my phone to get it out of my pocket. This usually involves lifting my butt off the seat to shimmy it out of my pocket which might also mess with Tesla's sequence of connecting the phone to the Bluetooth. I think this particular sequence caused one non-connection and I am going to try to pull out my phone before I enter and sit down in the car. Kind of a pain that the BT connection is associated with a butt on the seat but I imagine there is a reason they went this route. Now I have to figure out what I am going to do with all this new found time of not having to manually connect my phone to the car.
 
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Thx.
50% is also my hit rate. Not good enough. Tried solution of post #13, still no change.
That’s why I have scheduled a SC appointment for end of april.

I think that I have found the root cause.
The seat weight sensor of driver seat not functioning properly.
When I step into the car and close the door, the main screen gets black and stays black until I hit the break pedal.
In other words, the car seat doesn’t recognize me properly and Bluetooth does not connect to my Smartphone.
That’s however a definite prerequisite for a successful Bluetooth connection.
If however, directly after the black screen, I do not hit the break but jump once or twice with my butt on the seat, the screen turns on again and Bluetooth connection with Smartphone is established.
Let’s wait and see what SC says🙃
I’ve had my SC appointment today. They changed the driver's seat weight sensor and now the problem is finally solved.😃
Under warranty, don’t know about the costs. 0,75 hours work.
 
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