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Bought used 2018 MX 100D. Considering some upgrades... advice?

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I'm in Europe, so some of these questions are location-specific, so any opinions, especially from those driving a MX in Europe would be appreciated.

Have been driving an MY for 15 months and now getting a second MX. I am wondering which one of these upgrades are worth the money:

1. CCS charging - does it actually speed up charging, or just enables charging at Tesla v3 only locations and 3rd party CCS chargers, but charges at the same speed as the original charge port?

2. FSD and/or HW3 - car currently has HW2.5 and EAP. In my MY (which I bought with FSD), in Europe, I consider FSD a waste of money as we don't get pretty much anything else (that actually works anyway) than what's already included in EAP. But there is one thing I'm missing in the MX that I have in the MY: the additional things the computer detects (mainly traffic lights, speed limits, etc.) and the functionality this provides (stopping at traffic lights, green light chime, which I understand is only available with HW3). So my initial idea is to only upgrade the hardware to HW3 (I think it's about EUR 1000) and stay with the EAP, which does these things. The only consideration is that as far as I understand, the upgrade to FSD (about 3600 EUR) already includes the HW3 upgrade without extra charge, making the difference only about EUR 2600. But if I pay for the HW3 upgrade alone, and later decide to upgrade to FSD for whatever reason, I assume it will still be the same cost so I would lose EUR 1000. The main question is, could the FSD upgrade potentially increase the resell value of the car (I intend to keep it for 1-3 years, then switch to a newer model) so that it's worth the additional EUR 2600?

Also, do I understand correctly that if I keep HW2.5 then the car will keep using the ultrasonic sensors i.e. no full switch to Tesla Vision only, which would then disable them? ATM, I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing, I just can't tell how Tesla Vision can detect something like the back wall of my dark garage, which the USS picks up with absolute accuracy - how does Tesla Vision see in the dark with cameras only? Also there are frequent constructions on German freeways with very narrow temporary lanes where the USS can clearly "see" that there is a barrier very, very close to the side of the car, and even a few cm/inches could make the difference of staying clear of it (which the USS enabled car is clearly capable of) and the possibility of a camera based system not being able to detect the distance of random objects like a steel barrier with such accuracy, and the consequences.

3. The car I bought comes with 22 inch wheels. While they look cool, I understand that the 20 inch wheels provide a softer and quieter ride, and I don't buy cars for a "cool look", rather for comfort (long road trips, etc.). Would "downgrading" (actually an upgrade IMO) to 20 inch wheels improve the ride quality enough to worth the trouble? Has anyone driven both and felt a significant difference in ride quality?

Any input and opinions are appreciated!
I am in the process of putting 20"s on to my X. Its cheaper than you think especially when you consider the resale value of the 22's. With a little patience you could buy oem 20's wheels for ~$500. The 22's are worth about $1,500

I found the 22's tax the stated range. This certainly becomes evident when you drive with a little spirit.

Over the next few weeks I am going to be buying iON evo's which is said to increase range by %6 and decrease road noise

With a combo of the 20's + Ev tires I am hoping for an increase in range on the order of 18-20% which would be huge.

GL and keep us posted.
 
Yeah, car doesn't understand "2 phase", it shows 3 phases but only charges with 2/3 power.

There are reports that some have fixed the charger, apparently it has internal fuses that can burn. But I'm not sure if that only applied to the older 11kw charger..
Unfortunately for me I'm pretty sure you are correct. In both cases ( point2 and 3 in my initial statement) it charges exactly 2/3 of the expected power. What would you advice me to do? Sure I'm not going to pay 2k+ for a new onboard charger.
 
Unfortunately for me I'm pretty sure you are correct. In both cases ( point2 and 3 in my initial statement) it charges exactly 2/3 of the expected power. What would you advice me to do? Sure I'm not going to pay 2k+ for a new onboard charger.

You don't necessarily need to do anything, if you can live with the reduced power.

It only affects home charging and type2.
 
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Thank you - I haven't heard of different versions of CCS, the only info I have is that here in EU Tesla SC and pretty much everyone else uses the CCS "combo" connector, which goes up to a theoretical charging speed of 250kWh. I don't recall ever seeing anything faster than 150kWh or my MY which supposedly comes with the latest charging technology though. As far as I understand, only the version 3 Tesla SCs have the 250kWh capacity, and I have seen some chargers that no longer have the old style plug (which is different from the US charging plug), only the new CCS combo plugs - which won't fit in the old MX/MS charging ports without the CCS adapter. And the CCS adapter requires an internal upgrade as well, so without the upgrade (and not just the adapter) you can't charge at the CCS only SCs in Europe.
Charging rate is measured in kW, not kWh.

You have CCS2 in Europe (as pictured at Tesla Charge Ports & Plugs from China, North America, and Europe Compared (for Models S, X, 3, & Y)). About halfway down What is CCS charging? shows CCS1 (what we have in North America) vs CCS2 in Europe. The upper portion of CCS1 is J1772 which is the standard in the US and Canada for level 1 and 2 AC charging. Upper portion of CCS2 is Mennekes Type 2 which doesn't exist in the US.
 
MS wheels are not road legal under MX in Europe. Not high enough load rating. It might be that no one notices it, though. But typically after an accident these things are checked and might affect insurance etc if everything is not legal.

I swapped my 22" wheels for 20" aftermarket AEZ wheels that are approved for MX, and got about 1000€ in exchange... The 22" turbines are quite wanted among Tesla people.

20" is much quieter, comfortable and much better range. Win-win. :)
I don't know the laws in Finland, but what you are saying is not true, at least for the Netherlands, where OP and I are living.
The weight difference between a Model S and a Model X is about 10%. If wheels are build which such small margins, it wouldn't be safe.
I drive a Model X (in the Netherlands) with 21" Arachnid (Model S) wheels
 

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I don't know the laws in Finland, but what you are saying is not true, at least for the Netherlands, where OP and I are living.
The weight difference between a Model S and a Model X is about 10%. If wheels are build which such small margins, it wouldn't be safe.
I drive a Model X (in the Netherlands) with 21" Arachnid (Model S) wheels

here in the usa i have never heard of any legal issues surrounding rims as source of an accident in matters of cause and effect... it s such common practice here in the usa to swap wheels...
 
I don't know the laws in Finland, but what you are saying is not true, at least for the Netherlands, where OP and I are living.
The weight difference between a Model S and a Model X is about 10%. If wheels are build which such small margins, it wouldn't be safe.
I drive a Model X (in the Netherlands) with 21" Arachnid (Model S) wheels

Well, we are in the same EU.. but it might be again that Finnish officials are being much more strict in their interpretation of the same directives.

Anyway..

Model S type approval has max weight 1300kg front, 1500kg rear. Model X approval is 1470kg front, 1720kg rear.

The easy part is to check the tire load rating, it is printed on every tire.

So for Model S rear you need 98, Model X needs 103.. However typically any tire size suitable for X probably already has high enough rating.

But then there's the wheel itself.. Many aftermarket wheels have the load rating printed inside the wheel somewhere. Below image just taken from the net, not a Tesla wheel.. For MX you'd want this to say at least 1720/2 = 860kg

1682232402683.png


But I don't think Tesla wheels have anything printed in them. In that case manufacturer reported weights are used and that is 1500/2=750kg for MS..

Here's a Finnish wheel dealer selling brand new 19" Slipstreams (at 695€ for set of 4, isn't that a bargain?) Anyway even they are saying it's not legal to fit these to MX, you would think they sell anything without asking. :)

My 20" wheels are "AEZ Panama Dark".. If you go to AEZ website you can try their wheel configurator:

Select Tesla and 20" and Model X or Model S and see that they offer much more wheels for MS.. that is because of the load rating. These Panama Darks have a rating of 1025kg, more than enough.

AEZ is a german brand and they have much more strict rules there, I think any aftermarket wheel must be approved by TUV?

However you are probably right that MS and MX weight difference is not that big and MS wheels probably will do just fine. The extra load rating in MX is probably because of towing. But keep in mind when you sell the car, the new owner might not know it's perhaps not safe for towing..
 
the most likely thing to break or be the cause of accident involving wheels would be tires - tires blow out all the time here in the usa...

tires seem to be the weakest link in the chain... you hear of rims bent cracked but those involve low profile tires goin over potholes... so imo oem rim of ms is plenty durable to handle mx especially given the increased tire profile... it s a go...
 
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You don't necessarily need to do anything, if you can live with the reduced power.

It only affects home charging and type2.
I got I new charger and the charger shows how the three phases send current to the car and as you said 1 phase is dead. I cant find anything on this forum about phase diy repair. Do you have any advice, I would love so be able to suck the whole 16.5kw/h. Would it be the fuse on the obc ?