Brackets to install Aftermarket Speakers in Model 3

[davitsio]

The green connectors are Yazaki 7282-6444-60. For work i deal with various factories overseas. I shot one of my contacts a pic of the harness and he figured out what the mating connector and i bought some from him. I still have not physically tried it on the car since i haven't had time, but from pictures, and my contacts experience, it should be the one. Im thinking about having these harnesses available for sale. I didn't want to hijack the OP's thread, so if anyone is interested PM me.

I would love to also know the connectors you used in the photo for the tweeters, both the doors and the mid. I have NOT been able to find those nor the green ones in the doors at all. I even talked with the techs at Mouser.com who told me that they have never seen anything like the door plug housing and it is probably proprietary. No worries about hijacking the thread as long as it is on topic .

@wstamaria do you know if you have the correct pins for the woofers in the doors and the mids and tweeters? I would love to know exactly what they are if you know; I am just measuring them and ordering similar parts. Also, to answer your question about the adding of two more tweeters in putting the focals in the dash, yes you would be (just like with the Infinitys), but the car stereo only sends the correct frequencies to each speaker location so the highs are not actually being sent to the midrange woofers in the dash at all, and so the integrated tweeters likely see very little actual use. That's why you shouldn't use inline crossovers for any of the speaker locations.

By the way, as a note to everyone, the pins I ordered for the door plugs from mouser are the 173645-3 gold plated pins from TE. I do NOT know if they are correct so don't order them yet! I have to test them first but the dimensions look correct from my measurements and they are in stock.

 

[Riztnack]

Printed up the new door adapters, will be installing them today and see how they fit

 

[wstamaria]

Sorry for the late reply. I was trying to figure out the correct terminals.

The Mids are TE 1-1534155-1
Door tweeters are TE 1-968699-1
Dash Tweeters are TE 2-968699-1 (alternatively, you can use 9-968699-1)
Doors are yazaki 7282-6444-60

I dont have the part numbers for the terminals at the moment. they were included with the connectors with no reference on the paperwork.

 

[davitsio]

Update for everyone. I was planning to have the install recorded this last week, but I am waiting on the Yazaki plugs, which I have ordered last week, to arrive so I can do the install with them. Of course I can just solder the speaker wires to the Tesla, but I want to test the plugs and be able to include them in the install video. They are coming from the UK, and have just entered the US, so I am hopeful I will have them before the end of this week!

 

[wstamaria]

Hello everyone! I may have stated before in this thread that i wanted to do something to "Pay it forward" for all the great information on this thread. With David's blessing, i have 4 sets of Davids brackets (3 tweeter, 3 mids, sorry, no door right now) available for anyone who wants to give this project a go. They are printed in black PETG. All that i ask for is money for postage.

I also have all the connectors available for purchase as well in case anyone needs to get them.

Thanks!

 

[davitsio]

I just want to update everyone. I have finished the install on my car, as well as the video editing and posted the install video on my website (www.audioliphe.com). The Focal woofers are like having two subwoofers in your doors.....it's kind of crazy! lol So I turned my EQ settings to drop the low bass about 5dB. That balances it out pretty well for me, and I can hear notes and frequencies that I never heard before on some music. It's pretty cool. So the brackets work well, and the install is not really hard. Let me know if there are any questions. I will eventually make a sticky post with all the important info for everyone here.

 

[groovyd]

I just want to update everyone. I have finished the install on my car, as well as the video editing and posted the install video on my website (www.audioliphe.com). The Focal woofers are like having two subwoofers in your doors.....it's kind of crazy! lol So I turned my EQ settings to drop the low bass about 5dB. That balances it out pretty well for me, and I can hear notes and frequencies that I never heard before on some music. It's pretty cool. So the brackets work well, and the install is not really hard. Let me know if there are any questions. I will eventually make a sticky post with all the important info for everyone here.

does it possibly need a high pass first order bypass cap for a light crossover correction?

 

[davitsio]

does it possibly need a high pass first order bypass cap for a light crossover correction?

In truth, I'm not sure of what benefit there would be either way. I have some solid understanding of the concepts involved with speakers and related electronics, but precious little experience actually playing with them. So it's likely some capacitor would provide a better balance, but I did try the speakers with the passive crossover cap included with the woofers, and it cut out the majority of the frequencies and volume from them. To such a level that they performed worse than the stock speakers. Without that cap, the speakers sound amazing, they just need to be lowered on the EQ unless you really like to the bass to flow through you

 

[groovyd]

In truth, I'm not sure of what benefit there would be either way. I have some solid understanding of the concepts involved with speakers and related electronics, but precious little experience actually playing with them. So it's likely some capacitor would provide a better balance, but I did try the speakers with the passive crossover cap included with the woofers, and it cut out the majority of the frequencies and volume from them. To such a level that they performed worse than the stock speakers. Without that cap, the speakers sound amazing, they just need to be lowered on the EQ unless you really like to the bass to flow through you

right so it sounds like the included cap is for low pass as a woofer but really it needs a high pass with an appropriate cutoff to slowly ramp the bass down a bit. Question is at what frequency do you cut and by how much to 'flatten' the response. instead of the provided cap in parallel maybe simply putting it in series would be the answer.

 

[davitsio]

Hello, Everyone! This is a post that I want to make into a sticky, but I am not sure how to go about that. If someone knows, please let me know. I am going to summarize the state of everything for installation of aftermarket speakers in the Tesla Model 3 with Premium sound as best as I can. There are certainly things I do not know yet, so please reach out and I can edit this post accordingly.

Fairly Low cost build below (Several hundred dollars for all speakers, pins, plugs, and bracket prints).
Tweeters in the front dash and A-Pillars. There are 3 tweeters in the front of the Tesla M3 (as well as 2 "immersive sound" speaker, but I will ignore those as they produce almost no volume and you can even turn them off if desired from the Tesla console).
Speakers that can be used to replace: Focal Integration Tweeters (TWU 1.5). Requires bracket adapter for good fit (below).
Bracket Adapters: Both A pillars and the center dash tweeter have brackets designed for the Focal tweeters that can be ordered at www.audioliphe.com or the 3D model can be downloaded there and printed independently. The 3D model is licensed for private use only.
Stock Plugs: Plugs used in the A-Pillars are TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MQS STIFT-GEH 2. Part Number 1-968699-. Plugs used in the dash appear to be a relative of the same part as the pillars. They may work there too but need to confirm
Stock Pins: Pins used in Tesla Stock for both dash and pillars appear to be the same as those for the midrange speaker plugs and can be bought individually or as a cut strip.
Benefit of Upgrade: Significantly clearer Highs and crisper Mids. Perhaps the most noticeable upgrade to Tesla stock sound (in poster's opinion).

Midrange Woofers in front Dash. There are 3 midrange speakers in the front of the Tesla M3. They are 4" component woofers with a treated paper cone.
Speakers that can be used to Replace: Infinity 4032cfx (requires bracket adapter for good fit). And some others as well (anyone want to comment on others?)
Bracket Adapters: Brackets for all 3 designed foe the Infinity 4" 4032cfx can be ordered at www.audioliphe.com or the 3D model can be downloaded there and printed independently. The 3D model is licensed for private use only.
Stock Plugs: TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MQS PIN HSG 2POS. Part number 1-1534155-1
Stock Pins: TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MQS CONTACT. Part Number 963716-2. Both pins and plugs can be found at mouser.com or other sites.
Benefit of Upgrade: Much improved clarity in midrange and some added depth. Worthwhile and balanced upgrade.

Front Door Woofers. There is a single 6.5" component woofer in both the driver and passenger door. They are treated paper cones.
Speakers that can be used to replace: Focal Integration woofer 8" (Focal ISU 200. big but does fit with correct bracket), focal Integration 6.75" Woofer (Focal ISU 165. similar to stock size. Needs bracket that I can design later if there is demand).
Bracket Adapters: Brackets for the 8" Focal ISU 200 for both doors are the same and I designed these after many iterations; the 3D model can be downloaded at www.audioliphe.com and printed independently. The 3D model is licensed for private use only. I DO NOT currently sell these as the prints take all day for one door and I would have to charge too much to make it worth the time. I suggest you download the model and print them yourself or order them printed in PETG or ABS from an online printing service that you like.
Stock Plugs: Yazaki YES Kaizen Connector 1.5mm Male Green. Part number 7282-6444-60.
Stock Pins: Yazaki YESC 1.5 Male Contact 0.85-1.25mm. Part number 7114-4101-02. Both plugs and pins ares somewhat hard to find. I ordered at All Products - automotiveconnectors.com .
Benefit of Upgrade: Increased power and range on the low end. The 8" speakers are incredibly powerful and provide subwoofer-like bass. They probably should have a high pass filter added for better balance. I have not yet figured out the best filter to use, but DO NOT use the included capacitor that Focal gives you in the box. It simply cuts out too much to make the upgrade worthwhile.

Very high cost build below (more than $2000 for speakers, but same pins, plugs, and different printable brackets).
Travis Llado did a full rebuild of Tesla Stock system using Focal Utopia M speakers (very expensive) and a new amp and subwoofer. Link to his work is below. This includes a guide and printable brackets:
Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 9: Summary and Lessons Learned

 

[groovyd]

anoth

Hello, Everyone! This is a post that I want to make into a sticky, but I am not sure how to go about that. If someone knows, please let me know. I am going to summarize the state of everything for installation of aftermarket speakers in the Tesla Model 3 with Premium sound as best as I can. There are certainly things I do not know yet, so please reach out and I can edit this post accordingly.

Fairly Low cost build below (Several hundred dollars for all speakers, pins, plugs, and bracket prints).
Tweeters in the front dash and A-Pillars. There are 3 tweeters in the front of the Tesla M3 (as well as 2 "immersive sound" speaker, but I will ignore those as they produce almost no volume and you can even turn them off if desired from the Tesla console).
Speakers that can be used to replace: Focal Integration Tweeters (TWU 1.5). Requires bracket adapter for good fit (below).
Bracket Adapters: Both A pillars and the center dash tweeter have brackets designed for the Focal tweeters that can be ordered at www.audioliphe.com or the 3D model can be downloaded there and printed independently. The 3D model is licensed for private use only.
Stock Plugs: Plugs used in the A-Pillars are TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MQS STIFT-GEH 2. Part Number 1-968699-. Plugs used in the dash appear to be a relative of the same part as the pillars. They may work there too but need to confirm
Stock Pins: Pins used in Tesla Stock for both dash and pillars appear to be the same as those for the midrange speaker plugs and can be bought individually or as a cut strip.
Benefit of Upgrade: Significantly clearer Highs and crisper Mids. Perhaps the most noticeable upgrade to Tesla stock sound (in poster's opinion).

Midrange Woofers in front Dash. There are 3 midrange speakers in the front of the Tesla M3. They are 4" component woofers with a treated paper cone.
Speakers that can be used to Replace: Infinity 4032cfx (requires bracket adapter for good fit). And some others as well (anyone want to comment on others?)
Bracket Adapters: Brackets for all 3 designed foe the Infinity 4" 4032cfx can be ordered at www.audioliphe.com or the 3D model can be downloaded there and printed independently. The 3D model is licensed for private use only.
Stock Plugs: TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MQS PIN HSG 2POS. Part number 1-1534155-1
Stock Pins: TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MQS CONTACT. Part Number 963716-2. Both pins and plugs can be found at mouser.com or other sites.
Benefit of Upgrade: Much improved clarity in midrange and some added depth. Worthwhile and balanced upgrade.

Front Door Woofers. There is a single 6.5" component woofer in both the driver and passenger door. They are treated paper cones.
Speakers that can be used to replace: Focal Integration woofer 8" (Focal ISU 200. big but does fit with correct bracket), focal Integration 6.75" Woofer (Focal ISU 165. similar to stock size. Needs bracket that I can design later if there is demand).
Bracket Adapters: Brackets for the 8" Focal ISU 200 for both doors are the same and I designed these after many iterations; the 3D model can be downloaded at www.audioliphe.com and printed independently. The 3D model is licensed for private use only. I DO NOT currently sell these as the prints take all day for one door and I would have to charge too much to make it worth the time. I suggest you download the model and print them yourself or order them printed in PETG or ABS from an online printing service that you like.
Stock Plugs: Yazaki YES Kaizen Connector 1.5mm Male Green. Part number 7282-6444-60.
Stock Pins: Yazaki YESC 1.5 Male Contact 0.85-1.25mm. Part number 7114-4101-02. Both plugs and pins ares somewhat hard to find. I ordered at All Products - automotiveconnectors.com .
Benefit of Upgrade: Increased power and range on the low end. The 8" speakers are incredibly powerful and provide subwoofer-like bass. They probably should have a high pass filter added for better balance. I have not yet figured out the best filter to use, but DO NOT use the included capacitor that Focal gives you in the box. It simply cuts out too much to make the upgrade worthwhile.

Very high cost build below (more than $2000 for speakers, but same pins, plugs, and different printable brackets).
Travis Llado did a full rebuild of Tesla Stock system using Focal Utopia M speakers (very expensive) and a new amp and subwoofer. Link to his work is below. This includes a guide and printable brackets:
Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 9: Summary and Lessons Learned

Which material is better to order the woofer brackets in PETG or ABS? Also anyone have a preferred printing service they trust to make this sort of thing properly? Planning to order these up and install the woofers been in my closet for a year now. I went to a website of a shop near my home in Atlanta and it is quoting $50 per piece for just the outer rings and another $50 apiece for the woofer brackets themselves. That would be $200 for all 4 components using FDM technology in either PETG or ABS. Does this sound right? Seems a bit steep.

 

[Miztawizord]

anoth

Which material is better to order the woofer brackets in PETG or ABS? Also anyone have a preferred printing service they trust to make this sort of thing properly? Planning to order these up and install the woofers been in my closet for a year now. I went to a website of a shop near my home in Atlanta and it is quoting $50 per piece for just the outer rings and another $50 apiece for the woofer brackets themselves. That would be $200 for all 4 components using FDM technology in either PETG or ABS. Does this sound right? Seems a bit steep.

3d printing fees are no joke. I was looking for a couple days at one point and almost settled on a company nearby (bay area) that would do the set for about $160. Some companies were close to $400!!! WtF... Anyways, I almost just bought myself a 3d printer as some decent ones can be had for around $200. I was blessed enough to remember a buddy of mine had one. He ended up doing it for me and I just paid the cost of materials ~$40 or so.

Investing in one might not be a bad idea as there's a buttload of project material that can be had for the future. Good luck.

 

[groovyd]

3d printing fees are no joke. I was looking for a couple days at one point and almost settled on a company nearby (bay area) that would do the set for about $160. Some companies were close to $400!!! WtF... Anyways, I almost just bought myself a 3d printer as some decent ones can be had for around $200. I was blessed enough to remember a buddy of mine had one. He ended up doing it for me and I just paid the cost of materials ~$40 or so.

Investing in one might not be a bad idea as there's a buttload of project material that can be had for the future. Good luck.

how about one of yall with a good printer knock out the set for me and i'll give you double material cost

 

[wstamaria]

After some considerable research i have found a few alternatives for those who like choices. I am by far NO expert in Car Audio, I just prefer to learn by doing.


For the midrange 4" speakers, i found a couple of speakers that fit, but had completely different sound characteristics. The first speaker i tried out was a Dayton Audio RS100P-4. It was a very nice sounding speaker, but the sensitivity was a bit low. I found myself having to put the volume a little higher than normal to get the output i wanted. The second speaker i tried, and ultimately went with is the FaitalPRO 4fe32. It's a great sounding speaker. A little brighter than the Dayton Audio, but with a higher sensitivity, i felt it was more balanced with the other speakers in the car.



For the door components, i went with the Focal ISU-200 Set. While i ordered a few 8" speakers that looked like they were going to fit based on the spec sheets, they ended up not fitting. I found that its not only the depth that counts, but the diameter of the Magnet. It seems that all aftermarket speakers have HUGE magnets. Im convinced (and my wallet is convinced also) that there isn't anything out there that will work in the space provided to us.


On to the tweeters: I found that i didn't really like the sound of the tweeters that came with the Focals. Since i was on a mission to find alternatives, i decided to not use them. I ended up going with some Dayton Audio AN25 tweeters for the door tweeters, and a Dayton Audio ND25FN for the center tweeter. I think they sound great and are pretty good value. The AN25's were 24 bucks for the pair, and the ND25FN was 17 Bucks (only sold in singles) Both Models are pretty much the same tweeter, but in different form factors. THe ND25FN uses a different magnet and is a lot more shallow. I went with a 3.3uF capacitor on the center passive tweeter which is closer in crossover point to the stock tweeter than the crossover included in with the Focal tweeters. They also make Titanium domed versions of both for those who like 'em bright.

For the install, i had to design new brackets for the Mids and Tweeters. While Davids woofer brackets work great for the focals, i decided to design my own version of that also.

Overall, i am very happy with the new setup. The Focal Door woofers add a nice bass kick, and the new mids and tweeters really sound great! Well worth the effort IMO.

If anyone is interested in any of the bracket files, i can make them available for private use. I also have available all the connectors and pins. (including the Hard to find KAIZEN Woofer plugs. Or, if you're the "plug and play" type, i can make brackets and harness available to buy also.

 

[davitsio]

anoth

Which material is better to order the woofer brackets in PETG or ABS? Also anyone have a preferred printing service they trust to make this sort of thing properly? Planning to order these up and install the woofers been in my closet for a year now. I went to a website of a shop near my home in Atlanta and it is quoting $50 per piece for just the outer rings and another $50 apiece for the woofer brackets themselves. That would be $200 for all 4 components using FDM technology in either PETG or ABS. Does this sound right? Seems a bit steep.

Hey! From my fairly well researched understanding of this, while ABS and PETG are different in some ways, they are going to have pretty similar characteristics in the ways that matter for this sort of project. As a reference, ABS is the most commonly use plastic in automobile components in general, but I chose PETG because it is easier to print with without a fancier setup than I have. In truth, you could probably use good 'ol PLA with no issues too, it just has a lower plastic transition temperature and so in theory could deform or melt if your car reaches temperatures it should probably never reach. All of those plastics are pretty rigid and robust.

Also, I am willing to print brackets for people over time, but it will be a long and slow process because it takes a full day to print them for each door and then you'd have to epoxy them when you received them. The materials cost isn't terrible, but it's the time that is killer! So if people really want, I am willing to do a few. Speaking of which, I ordered enough plugs now to build some cables for the tweeters if anyone needs those still and I enable them on my website. The center tweeter in the dash uses a plug that I CANNOT find anywhere, but the dimensions appear to be basically the same as the other two tweeters, so I believe the plugs the other tweeters use will work there too, even if it requires filing a millimeter off one side or something. I have someone who is going to test that hypothesis for me this next week. I want to post up here though that I can ship out tweeter plugs this week only, as I am traveling next week for a month or so. I can continue to ship after I return in October, but if you want me to build you some cables before October, please order them now lol.

It's AWESOME to see that there's another set of brackets built now for some other speaker models by @wstamaria ; it's so cool to see what everyone comes up with. Also, it looks like he can build up plugs for people too so that's an option while I'm gone

Thanks all!

 

[wstamaria]

Also, I am willing to print brackets for people over time, but it will be a long and slow process because it takes a full day to print them for each door and then you'd have to epoxy them when you received them. The materials cost isn't terrible, but it's the time that is killer! So if people really want, I am willing to do a few. Speaking of which, I ordered enough plugs now to build some cables for the tweeters if anyone needs those still and I enable them on my website. The center tweeter in the dash uses a plug that I CANNOT find anywhere, but the dimensions appear to be basically the same as the other two tweeters, so I believe the plugs the other tweeters use will work there too, even if it requires filing a millimeter off one side or something. I have someone who is going to test that hypothesis for me this next week. I want to post up here though that I can ship out tweeter plugs this week only, as I am traveling next week for a month or so. I can continue to ship after I return in October, but if you want me to build you some cables before October, please order them now lol.

The white connector below is for the center tweeter. As David mentioned, It is a TE connector that is a non-stocking part electronics distributors here and in Europe. The only way to order is to order a very large minimum and they will manufacture it for you.

The black connector below is the door tweeter connector. I think it is possible to file off the connector on the car harness and make it fit. All you would need to do is file the top "handle" portion and it will work. Given the short amount of slack the factory harness has, and the proximity of the windshield to the dash, i think it would be very challenging to do this.

One other alternative is to use TE 9-968699-1. it seems that this variation was a custom part used by BMW at some point under the part number 837358302. This connector will work 100% with no modifications.




If anyone wants to order any of these connectors, Terminals, Harnesses, or brackets, i have them all available. As a quarantine project i built a little website for people to order from. Its a work in progress. I think the only things that i still have to add are the tweeter brackets. If you need those, just PM me.

You can check it out at: www.ampedgarage.com

Thanks!

 

[tlr1000]

how about one of yall with a good printer knock out the set for me and i'll give you double material cost

The material cost for what you want is likely less than $5. So doubling that would provide a max $5 incentive. I get it that not everyone wants a 3d printer but a basic one like the Creality Ender 3 is about $200 and its a solid starter printer.

 

[MrBruus]

Hi all. Thank you all for your help! I installed the Focal ISU 200 kit using the files provided by Audioliphe. Thanks! I have a question regarding the brackets for the door woofers: Did any of you try to seal the holes of for wires and mounting screws? I sealed the holes with some hot glue because the original speaker unit is totally sealed. I notice some resonance in the door so maybe it is better to leave them open?

 

[tlr1000]

Removing the hot glue may not make a difference to resonance but suppose you could try it and see. How about adding some sound damping material? Did you use 100% infill on the prints? I'm curious as to weather partial infill and infill pattern would be better for resonance reduction. Can any one with 3d printing expertise and a sound background chime in?

If I were to print these brackets, I'd be tempted to print the very bottom 2-3 mm and the very top 2-3 mm in tpu.

 

[MrBruus]

The door has two cavities. The one behind the door panel and the one between the door outer and the mounting sport for the speaker. I added some damping material behind the door panel but there are not a lot of space in the other one because of the windows. I will try to open up tomorrow. Just wondering if anybody else played around with it?

I printed the parts with 100% infill because I want them to be as strong as possible.