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Brackets to install Aftermarket Speakers in Model 3

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Does anyone have any interest in splitting a pack of of Infinity 4032 speakers and a pack of focal TWU 1.5 tweeters? I only need 3 of them (because Tesla has the weird 3rd set of speakers in the center of the dash), but they all come in pairs!

Can you get the tweeters individual? I got the ISU kit with the woofers but I want to also replace the immersive sound tweets up higher on the pillar. Also I need a couple more 4032 for the rear door etc or trunk thing.
 
Can you get the tweeters individual? I got the ISU kit with the woofers but I want to also replace the immersive sound tweets up higher on the pillar. Also I need a couple more 4032 for the rear door etc or trunk thing.

The tweeters are purchasable independently of the kit, but they only come in pairs. They are the TWU 1.5 tweeters from Focal. I just purchased a set from which I only need one tweeter, so if anyone wants to split the cost in half, I would send over the second one. I have the same deal for a single Infinity 4032, since I got an extra of those too!

I definitely am intrigued by your ambition of replacing the back cabin speakers and immersion tweeters, but a word of caution: everyone has told me that that the immersion tweeters are literally glued to the headliner, and that the back speakers are also harder to change than the front (such as the back door woofers being sonic-welded to the door frame). Probably a bigger project! I personally will likely leave the back of the cabin alone for the time being. But I might do it in the future if it works out well for you or some other people.

It's also important to mention that @flashflooder took things apart before and posted that the A-pillar tweeters are only 2w each, likely making them somewhat negligible in the soundstage. Though, to be honest, I can in fact hear them and on some music they make a clear difference when immersive sound is off or on. Not sure how much they contribute, really, just can verify that I can hear them.
 
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This is just a super quick post to try to get the bracket guidance up for those who will be getting their brackets tomorrow or the day after. I am posting a few photos of the bracket correctly attached to the Infinity speaker with the zip ties. I hope it explains fairly clearly the configuration, but please let me know if there are questions, and I will make a proper instructional document, and likely install video, this next week. 20190627_214759.jpg 20190627_214816.jpg 20190627_214836.jpg 20190627_214845.jpg 20190627_214852.jpg 20190627_214904.jpg
 
Howdy,

I received the 3D printed test bracket today and mocked it up on one of my Morels. I ended up removing the mounting ring with a knife to allow the speaker to fit flush. If the ring was printed on the outside rather than the inside, then it would fit the Morels. Not sure if it would fit the door panel though.

I will find a way to secure the speaker to the bracket and see how it fits in the car tomorrow.

Alex
 
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Howdy,

I received the 3D printed test bracket today and mocked it up on one of my Morels. I ended up removing the mounting ring with a knife to allow the speaker to fit flush. If the ring was printed on the outside rather than the inside, then it would fit the Morels. Not sure if it would fit the door panel though.

I will find a way to secure the speaker to the bracket and see how it fits in the car tomorrow.

Alex

That's awesome; definitely keep us posted!
 
No dice on the morel. Installation would require modification of the door mounting plastic or grinding off the 3/16” metal mounting rim of the speaker - no thank you.

Decided to switch over to Audiofrog GS10, GS40, GS60 and 1 GS12D4 Subwoofer. Door woofers and sub powered by a Hertz HCP5d (105w per door, 330w for sub) and a Hertz HCP4 for the tweeters and dash - 50w ea RMS.

I’ll have room to expand and run the mid dash off the woofer amp in the future.

All of it tuned via a C-DSP 8x12

Just hoping to enter the realm of Travis!!!
 
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No dice on the morel. Installation would require modification of the door mounting plastic or grinding off the 3/16” metal mounting rim of the speaker - no thank you.

Decided to switch over to Audiofrog GS10, GS40, GS60 and 1 GS12D4 Subwoofer. Door woofers and sub powered by a Hertz HCP5d (105w per door, 330w for sub) and a Hertz HCP4 for the tweeters and dash - 50w ea RMS.

I’ll have room to expand and run the mid dash off the woofer amp in the future.

All of it tuned via a C-DSP 8x12

Just hoping to enter the realm of Travis!!!

Is the issue with the Morels that the door plastic interferes because the Morel is too wide in diameter? That's the piece I am somewhat worried about with the Focals, as I am willing to drop to the smaller Focals if it is really necessary.
 
I'd also like to see if anyone on the thread here has solidworks available to them. The bracket that Travis built for the ISU 200 is a sldprt file and I cannot open it!! If I could get it converted to a more open CAD format (Not STL) then I could more easily modify it. I'm using FreeCAD right now, which is not the most powerful or intuitive software there is, but it seems reasonable and is open source. Is anyone here experienced in a better free option? Blender is....complex....to say the least.
 
Received the bracket and zip tied them to the 3 speakers and put the foam around thinking to try installing it on Tuesday. One of the tabs was so hard to push onto the speaker it broke off so i had to solder the wires directly. hoping the install is easy. Any last minute tricks? also wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to dab some shoe glue between the bracket and speaker to help prevent any rattle where the zipties are.
 
Received the bracket and zip tied them to the 3 speakers and put the foam around thinking to try installing it on Tuesday. One of the tabs was so hard to push onto the speaker it broke off so i had to solder the wires directly. hoping the install is easy. Any last minute tricks? also wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to dab some shoe glue between the bracket and speaker to help prevent any rattle where the zipties are.

I apologize about the blade connectors being so tight. They really are! They come quite tight from the manufacturer and I very slowly wiggle them onto the speakers. You could also try using a small flathead screwdriver and prying the blade tabs open just a little to make them looser. The install should be very easy, and it was for me. I think the last minute tips are all in the document I shipped with the speakers, but most importantly: If the plugs don't slide right onto the car plugs, then the reason is that one of the pins might be just out of alignment and you can nudge it with a small screwdriver into position. I had to do that on one of my plugs, but I hope all is smooth for you, and I tried to make sure they were perfectly in alignment before shipping.

Aside from that, the left and right dash speakers are easy to fit straight in with the brackets (my passenger side has a clip on the car dash that you have to slide the bracket underneath, so maybe you will have to as well). The center speaker hole in the car has a bundle of wires mounted right underneath the stock speaker, and you WILL have to move that bundle and tape it to the side, because the news speakers are so much bigger on the magnet and they just won't fit otherwise in the center.

I have not had any issues with the ziptie tabs rattling so far, and they are pretty darn tight. But if you happen to have some shoe glue, it certainly wouldn't hurt so feel free. The speakers I designed for are the 4032cfx, which is just a newer version of the 4022cfx. I don't have the 4022cfx, but the photos i find on crutchfield seem to show that they look identical, so as long as they fit the brackets correctly, I would assume they are the same thing in all important ways.
 
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Just installed the 3 up front and bottom line is it is a total pain in the ass, however without the brackets and wire harness here it would have been much worse even. Took me about 3 hours because of the mistakes and not having a proper right angle torx 20 wrench. Don't do it without one. A few things I would recommend...

- You need a proper plastic spludger / trim remover and you need to first watch the videos carefully
- Without a proper right angle ratchet Torx 20 wrench don't even try it. I lost one bit, had to cut another bit in half, nipped into a few fingers and knuckles trying to wrench it in, etc. Trying to wedge some makeshift bit in there risks scratching your windshield and if it slips out of your hand there are some nice big holes the bit will fall into that you will never recover it from and will most likely rattle in the depths forever thereafter.
- Cover the big holes next to the side speakers with packing tape just incase because you really don't want to drop the screws down there either.
- Solder the wires to the speakers instead of using those flat clips. On one of mine while trying to fish out the lost bit I accidentally disconnected one of the leads and so had to remove everything and start over. Just solder them on so they never come loose and save yourself a potentially big hassle.
- The center speaker is an extremely tight fit which requires moving the wire bundle out of the way but it isn't obvious how. I managed to jam it in front of the speaker while squishing all the wires and connectors through. The speaker basket still hit the metal of the car underneath but I managed to tighten down the 3 screws relatively evenly. It might not lay flat.
- Triple check all speakers for sound before trying to snap the grill back on, at volume and check for any rattling.
- Putting the grill on is a bit of a trick. The clips on the frontmost side need to shoe into the fittings on the car however it isn't likely you will just be able to push the rear clips down into their holes without pushing them back with your spludger. They don't exactly line up with the holes unless you push each clip one at a time with the tool. Don't try to just snap them all in together, go right to left securing one at a time and be careful about the delicate fabric not to snag it up.
- The windshield will be a total mess so get a big jar of alcohol wipes to clean up with.

Sound does seem clearer but will take some time to see how it affects my EQ and if any rattles or issues develop.

Next step the door tweeters... do I have to remove the door panels to get at them?
 
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@groovyd Glad you managed to get all in ultimately. I didn't have quite as much trouble, and I think a big reason for that is that I bought an ultra-low profile t20 torx wrench with a magentic end. I had tried to remove the speakers without that the first time and hated my life for a couple hours, so I just went and ordered the low profile wrench. I was afraid of dropping screws into oblivion too, but haven't done it yet. I am going to do an install video this Thursday and Friday, so that it will be easier for everyone. Oddly, I don't think I have an issue with the center speaker basket landing on the metal frame in my car, but I will double check when I do the install video. If you find that generates some rattling, let me know, and I will modify the bracket for the center speaker to be thicker so it pulls the speaker up slightly. Then I'll send it over to you.

As for the tweeters, you actually do NOT have to take the door panels off. The tweeter housing looks nice and seamless, but just give the housing a firm pull straight upwards and it will pop right off. The connector is a little obnoxious to disconnect, but you can likely figure it out with 5-10 minutes of time. I used a super small flathead screwdriver (like eyeglasses size) to pop up the flat panel that holds it in (you will see what I mean) and then to depress one more plastic tab while pulling it out. I will video that as well late this week.
 
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yeah, to be honest with a proper right angle ratchet 20 torx it would have been a third of the job, that and taping over those holes is critical. I would actually recommend you just include the torx wrench in your bracket kit because without it is an accident waiting to happen. I would also make those brackets a mm or 2 thicker to account for clearance variances. If you plan to keep the connector clips recommend switching to using a higher quality gold plated one just because they are usually made better and fit more properly. The bare clips tend to be either too tight or loose and tweaking them with pliers doesn't always work right. The wire can be thinner too to help with installing them. I would though just recommend people to solder the wires onto the speakers though just incase, perhaps just have tinned wires in the kit with your 3d printed snaps on them, that side of the connection works well. Thinking instead of adding a couple mm thicker maybe put a strip of the foam rubber tape between the speaker and brackets to help provide a bit more clearance and a better seal.
 
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@groovyd Thanks for the advice! I think I probably will look to add foam gaskets to the kit, because it would be nice either way. I don't think I can really make the brackets much thicker, or I worry about clearance issues on the top.... but I may push the limits if I find the center speaker bottoms out at all. I will also look into better blade connectors. I chose those because they matched the speaker blade sizes nicely, and I want to provide a way for people who don't want to solder to install. But soldering always does provide the nicest connection, as you said. I JUST finished (10 minutes ago) printing a tweeter bracket that holds the Focals nicely in the door tweeter housing, with a layer of vinyl tape for cushioning. I will test those out when I do the video.
 
By the way, for everyone's knowledge, the wrench I bought is the MulWark 19pc mini rachet screwdriver. I found it on a certain very popular "bookstore" website that you all know and love. The set is overkill, because you don't need all the bits they provide, but it include the t20 you will need and it's cheap and very compact. And it *needs* to be very compact.
 
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By the way, for everyone's knowledge, the wrench I bought is the MulWark 19pc mini rachet screwdriver. I found it on a certain very popular "bookstore" website that you all know and love. The set is overkill, because you don't need all the bits they provide, but it include the t20 you will need and it's cheap and very compact. And it *needs* to be very compact.

Or just get this torx t20 set for 10$ that is more compact and no need to worry that the bit will fall out into oblivion when you are working in the car :)
 
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