Brackets to install Aftermarket Speakers in Model 3

[grmdl3]

I'm curious about the differences between the Infinity 4" and the Faital Pros. The Faital's are not really full-range, only going up to 6,500Hz. But that's still pretty high, and doesn't have a crossover to fiddle with phase and such.

The Infinitys list as being about the same efficiency. 1dB difference is probably within measurement/marketing error. But the Infinitys are cheaper. Are there a lot of high freqencies even being delivered to those dash speakers?

 

[Goodtohave]

Hey Everyone

I added a small alpine amp for rear speakers and added an amplified sub on my 2018 SR+ but just got a 19 SR+ and am thinking of skipping adding rear speakers and just changing all stock speakers and doing the 8” focals in the doors

has anyone done them without adding an amp?

Would be a lot easier, and I will add the amplified sub as well (just got the hanshow diy harness so no cutting this time)

Thanks!

 

[Goodtohave]

So I have been looking at all the brackets and I am thinking it’s time to buy a 3D printer and make them, I am new to it but it looks like fun....

Can anyone recommend a beginner printer that is big enough to make the 8” Focal rings?

Thanks!

 

[grmdl3]

For anyone interested, I will soon have an extra Infinity 4032 speaker if someone wants to buy it for their third. They're sold in pairs, after all.

PM me if interested. I'm near Portland, OR.

 

[asian_xl]

So I have been looking at all the brackets and I am thinking it’s time to buy a 3D printer and make them, I am new to it but it looks like fun....

Can anyone recommend a beginner printer that is big enough to make the 8” Focal rings?

Thanks!

What do you mean beginner printer? the size of the 8" focal bracket is huge, I can't even get it printed with Creality Ender 3s (220 x 220 mm heat bed) without chopping the ears off and glue it back. You will need a bigger size printer, which usually cost more.

Also 3D printers are not like 2D printer, they need you to spend time to tweak, trials and errors. I spent me almost 3 months printing stuff 24/7 to have it perfect.

 

[asian_xl]

Installed the final tweeter in the center. Got the pair from China around USD60 shipped

 

[grmdl3]

Installed the final tweeter in the center. Got the pair from China around USD60 shipped

View attachment 615893

Not understanding something here in terms of the way Tesla designed this system. Presumably they are sending a signal with low cut and high cut to that midrange speaker, then sending the remaining highs to the tweeter. You now have a single coaxial speaker with the tweeter integrated. Wouldn't it be better to try to just use that tweeter on the Infinity, and skip the stock tweeter?

 

[Goodtohave]

Not understanding something here in terms of the way Tesla designed this system. Presumably they are sending a signal with low cut and high cut to that midrange speaker, then sending the remaining highs to the tweeter. You now have a single coaxial speaker with the tweeter integrated. Wouldn't it be better to try to just use that tweeter on the Infinity, and skip the stock tweeter?

That’s what I was wondering, Tesla loves to be different

 

[asian_xl]

To be honest, I didn't think about it before the installation. The infinity in the middle should do its full range job, other local owners who already did the upgrade pointed out earlier the crossover component in the middle stock tweeter, so I believe your presumption is correct.

Low and high to the infinity, then just high to the tweeter. The tweeter spec is identical to the door tweeters, but the center tweeter volume didn't gain much after the installation. If it is not $30/pc, I wouldn't do it, not really worth the money.

 

[grmdl3]

So all the speakers get full-range signal from the amp, and just have passive components for high-cut and low-cut? Does the same pair of leads drive both that tweeter and the midrange nearby?

 

[grmdl3]

So all the speakers get full-range signal from the amp, and just have passive components for high-cut and low-cut? Does the same pair of leads drive both that tweeter and the midrange nearby?

Anyone?

 

[RFICDude]

The same wire pair drives both the mid-range and tweeter in the center dash on my SR+.
I left the stock tweeter disconnected when I replaced the center midrange with an Infinity coaxial speaker.

 

[Goodtohave]

What do you mean beginner printer?

Also 3D printers are not like 2D printer, they need you to spend time to tweak, trials and errors. I spent me almost 3 months printing stuff 24/7 to have it perfect.

So I bought a 3d printer, Ender 3 pro on Amazon... took about 2hrs to put together and setup.

Printed all the Autolyphe patterns, a big thank you to David...came out perfectly.

Have always wanted one, look forward to playing around with it.

 

[dgb62]

Just to give you guys a heads up, when i return from Europe on June 1st, I will be launching a new company of mine where i will have drop in plug and play speaker replacements for the dash 4", door tweeters, rear deck 4" and sub replacement with new amp for sub. Everything will go back in to the oem place and plug directly into the oem plugs. Including the sub.

Late to this thread but getting my M3P in (hopefully) a couple weeks. Would be interested in speaker upgrades. PM me with details if you can.

 

[RFICDude]

There are a lot of good links to specific amp and speaker upgrades at the beginning of this thread.
Guide: Model 3 SR+ aftermarket to enable speakers and subwoofer upgrade install - Tesla Owners Online

Late to this thread but getting my M3P in (hopefully) a couple weeks. Would be interested in speaker upgrades. PM me with details if you can.

 

[grmdl3]

Has anyone here installed aftermarket speakers and made note of whether the wire insulation denotes a positive? I don't have connectors, and was hoping to just solder into the existing wiring. But I'd like to make sure things are in correct polarity.

Also, if anyone has installed using the Amped Garage brackets, I'd love to PM you with what I hope is a quick question.

 

[Goodtohave]

Just take the old speaker and pop it with a small battery and check the polarity....

 

[grmdl3]

Yes, I was hoping to avoid that, but that's what I'll do. Can't do that with tweeters, though. But hopefully I'll figure out which lead has a stripe, or something, once I get in there.

 

[RFICDude]

Here is what I could gather for SR+ wiring. I haven't verified the door tweeter connections myself.
Hope this helps.

 

[grmdl3]

Thank you, @RFICDude . I went ahead with it and this chart mirrors what I saw in my 2020 AWD. The speakers, including tweeters, are marked for polarity, and I tested the units that I could and they tested true. Positive voltage pushes the piston out.