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Brake Brandishing [burnishing]/My wheels are trashed

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That's more to do with the pads going through a heat cycle. More commonly used for track or race pads where bedding can waste valuable testing time. Road pads on road cars need proper bedding to get the disc and pad in contact across their full area and get some pad transfer as you say. Heat cycling isn't so important for road pads as they aren't designed to get up to a high temerature in any case.
Correct but I think I'm just starting to mix up all the terms without knowing how to differentiate the difference. But I think these were the pads I had for street set up on my m
In the description it says "no break in required" and the pads actually had chamfered edges kinda like what you see here with the ferodos.
 
Correct but I think I'm just starting to mix up all the terms without knowing how to differentiate the difference. But I think these were the pads I had for street set up on my m
In the description it says "no break in required" and the pads actually had chamfered edges kinda like what you see here with the ferodos.
Chamfered edges are a feature on a lot of pads but they still require bedding. All road pads require some bedding.
The main point is that Teslas are not bedded at all from the factory and then when new owners don't ever brake hard or long, they will never get bedded.
At least in an ICE car, even with a granny driving, they will be somewhat bedded after a few hundred miles, because every slow down requires some braking.
 
I tried a couple of days with the stock 20s and the PS4. While it wasn't terrible, the PS4 doesn't like to be abused at the track, plus they are way too expensive for track tires IMO. I should have kept the pressures up too as the PS4 doesnt really like to go under 35 psi or so.

I bought some 18" rims and run 275/35-18 Federal RSR for the track. It is a bit of a small fitment though, and probably reduces my top-end speed. I plan on something a bit closer to stock rolling diameter next round.
I got some PS4S tires for my possibly bent rims. Went 255 this time but I really really want some 19s or 18s. I'm about to lower the car too on Teins but obviously this is a little bit of a set back. The coilovers are ready just gotta deal with this first. Think about the cost savings though with the 18s! Lol we need a more common tire size for savings. The pirellis that came with the car are garbage and super expensive. 375 a tire for 235/35/20. I already got a sidewall bubble twice. I know it's because of potholes and such but it wasn't very confidence inspiring through corners either. Lost traction a lot turning into understeer quite a bit. The PS4S was 350 otd for 255/35/20
 
Alternatively, either run the Regen in "Low" once every few weeks for a drive cycle or go beat them up on the highway every once in a while to prevent this from becoming an issue.
2020+ Teslas don't have the low option anymore.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around people that buy a 500+ HP car and then use the brakes so little that they can end up needing burnishing / re-bedding.
 
2020+ Teslas don't have the low option anymore.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around people that buy a 500+ HP car and then use the brakes so little that they can end up needing burnishing / re-bedding.

Fair point - you can then either use track mode or just do it on the highway. It's still quite odd they removed the Low setting at all.

For a lot of people a Tesla is simply a cool commuter car, but still just a commuter.
 
For a lot of people a Tesla is simply a cool commuter car, but still just a commuter.
Of course- but this is specifically a M3P, where the owner had a M4 before and thinks the brakes on the M3P are weak enough to replace brake lines and add a brake MC brake...
Yet what it turns out is that they just didn't use the brakes much, and what they were actually looking for is just a lot of initial bite.
 
2020+ Teslas don't have the low option anymore.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around people that buy a 500+ HP car and then use the brakes so little that they can end up needing burnishing / re-bedding.
I use my brakes a lot! I usually hit the local mountain roads for fun. But I think I was more trying to help others possibly remedy the lack of bite from the oem pads. Thought of sharing as the first troubleshooting method that's free. Then we can start to see if new brake pads are necessary using the true potential of the brakes.
 
Of course- but this is specifically a M3P, where the owner had a M4 before and thinks the brakes on the M3P are weak enough to replace brake lines and add a brake MC brake...
Yet what it turns out is that they just didn't use the brakes much, and what they were actually looking for is just a lot of initial bite.
Hahaha I think I still need new brake pads 🤭 still not strong enough for me but its a start. Any pad recs though for street/track combo pads?
 
I walked into AutoZone, menacingly holding a red Brembo caliper.

I saw the fear in the eyes of the young man at the parts counter. He quickly retreated behind the shelves and was gone for about two minutes. I expected the police to arrive, but instead the employee returned with a set of brake pads.

"No charge," he said.

I grabbed the box of pads and left. Yay for free stuff!

You know, its kinda funny but, every time I looked at this thread, I read it as "brake burnishing", not what is actually there. It took your post here for me to read what the thread title actually says, vs what my brain inserted in there (lol).

I would change it, but at this point I think everyone knows what the OP ment. Also, @BigNick , this was genuinely funny, or at least I found it so 😄
 
Of course- but this is specifically a M3P, where the owner had a M4 before and thinks the brakes on the M3P are weak enough to replace brake lines and add a brake MC brake...
Yet what it turns out is that they just didn't use the brakes much, and what they were actually looking for is just a lot of initial bite.
I think it's also worth mentioning that in places with a lot of moisture, sand, salt, etc - it can be kind of difficult to keep up with this. I would consider myself a fairly aggressive driver/braker and I still have to burnish my brakes every few months of daily driving to keep the corrosion at bay.
 
You know, its kinda funny but, every time I looked at this thread, I read it as "brake burnishing", not what is actually there. It took your post here for me to read what the thread title actually says, vs what my brain inserted in there (lol).

I would change it, but at this point I think everyone knows what the OP ment. Also, @BigNick , this was genuinely funny, or at least I found it so 😄
Lol I think it flew over people's heads but I get it too hahaha but my bad for my lack of vocabulary. Feel free to change it if you'd like because I don't know how to 🤷🏻‍♂️ and also I think my post isn't supposed to go in this "general" category but I messed up there as well.
 
You know how to bleed the brakes? Or are you sure they're bled bubble free?
I used to do this for my last car.
I have this >>>
But the attachment is for my old car. Assuming the process is the same but with a different attachment? But should we assume that the car should be bled properly from the factory or is that too much to ask for? 🤭
 
I used to do this for my last car.
I have this >>>
But the attachment is for my old car. Assuming the process is the same but with a different attachment? But should we assume that the car should be bled properly from the factory or is that too much to ask for? 🤭
You changed the lines so...
 
Any pad recs though for street/track combo pads?
There are only a few options for the M3P calipers as they are a completely custom shape. Here's the whole list:


For what it's worth, I think the stock pads are pretty amazing for their combination of bite, heat tolerance, and low dust. Most pads that can handle higher temps will have a lower mu at low temps, so they won't fix the bite concern you have.

Your best bet is probably a custom carbotech 1521 or G-loc GS-1 or R6, but be prepared to pay with dust.
 
Chamfered edges are a feature on a lot of pads but they still require bedding. All road pads require some bedding.
The main point is that Teslas are not bedded at all from the factory and then when new owners don't ever brake hard or long, they will never get bedded.
At least in an ICE car, even with a granny driving, they will be somewhat bedded after a few hundred miles, because every slow down requires some braking.
Tesla burnishes the brakes at the factory. Every vehicle is sent out onto a track with a driver who burnishes the brakes and makes sure the car is performing normally.
 
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Tesla burnishes the brakes at the factory. Every vehicle is sent out onto a track with a driver who burnishes the brakes and makes sure the car is performing normally.
I'd like to see a reference that they are doing this for EVERY car, now that they are making 1.4M cars a year (a car every 22 seconds, 24/7, 365).
That 3/4 mile loop at Freemont must be a traffic jam all day given the burnishing procedure takes at least 5 minutes and Freemont needs to clear 600K cars a year.
Worldwide, Tesla would need to have over 100 full time employees that just burnish brakes.

Even back in 2018 they didn't do all their cars:
"Most companies do sample testing," he says. "They take one out of every couple thousand cars."
Tesla tests at a far higher rate. "There are so many quality checks it's ridiculous," he adds.