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Brake cleaning $75

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Here's what I do when I switch over wheels to the other season...

when the wheel is off, knock out the two pins on the caliper
pull the pad out (it is just slotted in from the outside edge of the caliper)
clean the sides of the pad with a file
clean the sides of the slot in the caliper, with a little square file
put a little bit of anti-seize compound on the side edges of the pad
slot the pad back into the caliper
put the pins in

this takes about 10 minutes per wheel, this is so easy to do with these brakes

We get a lot of road grime up there, they salt and sand the roads... settles into the calipers like cement... And caused all four inside pads to seize in place in the caliper. My braking power was severely reduced, but it happens so slowly and I use regen so much, hardly need strong braking power on the car - but when you do, you do! And that's not a good time to find weak stopping distances.
 
So my MS is in for service (fourth annual). I have the prepaid service plan. The service center in Rockville recommended to have a brake cleaning done which would run me $75. They say because the brakes are used infrequently it would be important to clean and lubricate them. I asked why that would not be included in the service plan as it would seem a typical maintenance item but was told it is not.

What do you all think?

I've never heard of such a thing. I think you need to find out what a brake cleaning actually is. The rotors are self cleaning, so what does it involve? Please let us know.
 
They have raised the price for brake cleaning to $150.

Are you sure this isn't just for AWD models? Service told me the rationale for the brake cleaning is that the brakes don't get enough use due to regen. On RWD vehicles that would only apply to rear wheels, so an AWD vehicle has twice the labor (thus, twice the price makes sense). I was also told that the reason this is not included in the annual maintenance plan is that it's region specific -- it's not necessary in the south, so they did not want to bake it into the price of the plan nationwide.
 
If you are going to pay for this cleaning procedure at least insist on watching the work being done. I would sign a waiver for shop floor access if required as seeing it done will either justify the cost or encourage a DIY approach. My default is always DIY.
 
The cleaning procedure from another thread. It is noted as not included in the annual service price and only for cold weather regions.

Brake Caliper Pad Slides
Note: This is recommended for cold weather regions.
Note: Cleaning and lubricating the caliper pad slides/abutments is not included in the Annual Service price.
Note: Perform the following steps on all 4 calipers.
  1. Remove the pad retaining pins and collect the anti-rattle spring.
    Note: Always check that the anti-rattle clip has not been damaged. This part is easily damaged and is important to help eliminate squeaks.
    Front caliper Rear caliper
    upload_2017-2-6_20-32-24-png.213632
    upload_2017-2-6_20-32-38-png.213633
  2. Use a suitable tool to gently push the pistons back into caliper.
  3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
    upload_2017-2-6_20-33-1-png.213634
  4. Thoroughly clean the caliper pad slides and abutments with a hand brush (1057223-00-A) and soapy water.
    Caution: If there is rust or pitting on the caliper that cannot be removed with a hand brush, replace the caliper.
    upload_2017-2-6_20-33-14-png.213635
  5. Apply an even layer of Silaramic lubricant (1063021-00-A) to the caliper pad slides. Remove any excess lubricant.
  6. Apply an even layer of copper paste between the shim and the backing plate. Remove any paste that squeezes out after installing the shim.
    Caution: Ensure that the brake pads move freely.
    Caution: Do not apply copper paste to the caliper, seals, or any component other than the shim and backing plate.
    upload_2017-2-6_20-33-26-png.213636
.
 
I have a Lexus RX400h hybrid SUV. Twice now, I've replaced my disc brake rotors because they corroded from non-use due to regeneration. I guess that's better than wearing them out/warping, but the distinction is thin while I'm shelling out the moola. But, I've reached 190,000 miles and one could do a lot worse.

I agree, though, that this is maintenance and should be done as part of the maintenance package.
 
My breaks were squeaking and its only 6 months old. When I called the service center they said rather than bringing the car in I could probably remedy this myself. Because of the regen breaking the brakes will build up dust and corrosion that would normally not happen as much with traditional cars. Tesla said take the car up to at least 30mph and then HARD BRAKE. After a few times it should fix itself. Also turning down the regen brakes and hard breaking will help. Then turn the regen back up
 
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So my MS is in for service (fourth annual). I have the prepaid service plan. The service center in Rockville recommended to have a brake cleaning done which would run me $75. They say because the brakes are used infrequently it would be important to clean and lubricate them. I asked why that would not be included in the service plan as it would seem a typical maintenance item but was told it is not.

What do you all think?

I was shocked to read in the service manual that this is not included in annual service but indeed it is not.
 
It may not be included in the new re-written annual service agreement, but many of us have the original annual service agreement which had far fewer exclusions. The "TESLA SERVICE PLAN TERMS AND CONDITIONS" I received (TSPA012013) do NOT have any exclusions for brakes. Furthermore, they state under Tesla’s Responsibilities:

The regularly scheduled maintenance inspections shall include the following (subject to change by Tesla at any time
and without notice, in its sole discretion):
• Vehicle inspection;
Replacement or repair at the time of inspection of normal maintenance items and wear and tear
parts, excluding the Battery and tires
;
• Wheel alignment*; and
• Tire rotation*.

My question for the lawyers out there is: can they unilaterally make a substantive change like this give the wording
(subject to change by Tesla at any timeand without notice, in its sole discretion). If this were challenged, who is likely to prevail?
 
Here's what I do when I switch over wheels to the other season...

when the wheel is off, knock out the two pins on the caliper
pull the pad out (it is just slotted in from the outside edge of the caliper)
clean the sides of the pad with a file
clean the sides of the slot in the caliper, with a little square file
put a little bit of anti-seize compound on the side edges of the pad
slot the pad back into the caliper
put the pins in

this takes about 10 minutes per wheel, this is so easy to do with these brakes

So no cleanup on the pistons. Since you're right up close to them when you do this -- do you see any corrosion that makes you think eventually they'll need it? I agree, without that, this is a pretty light service. And it sure does look like it's in-bounds for the original terms of the service agreement. It'd be nice if Tesla stopped being sleazy about that particularly since they always seem to cave when challenged (it is not plausible at this point that anyone answering escalation email at Tesla is unfamiliar with the difference between the old and new service agreements, yet they always seem to make a first attempt to bluff and stonewall customers when the question is raised).

Even a full caliper rebuild seems like it should be covered under the original agreement which expressly _does_ include wear and tear and does _not_ exclude the brakes. Their weasel words notwithstanding, I am not an attorney but in most states Tesla's assertion that they can unilaterally change the exclusions is likely worthless (google for "contract of adhesion" if you'd like to see one reason why). Mistake on their part, but they probably have to bear it and should stop nickel-and-diming owners who paid for the extra service contract this way.

Righteous chest-thumping aside, if you want this service done, don't want to do it yourself, and don't want to fight with Tesla about it or pay $75, it's likely any mechanic you choose can do it for you, possibly cheaper. However, if you want heavier work done that'd require bleeding the brake system etc. you're unlikely to get that for less than $75, is my opinion -- the Tesla price is a pretty good deal unless you're (rightly) annoyed that you already seem to have paid $1900 or $3800 for a bundle of services including this but aren't getting them.
 
So no cleanup on the pistons. Since you're right up close to them when you do this -- do you see any corrosion that makes you think eventually they'll need it?

Nope, no cleanup of pistons required. The rubber seals all around them are in good condition. They have no difficultly pressing hard and retracting fully. I think these will last a loooooooong time. The road grit just packs itself around the sides of the pads... which causes them to become frozen in place. Knock the grit out, and you're good to go!
 
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