Brake Cooling Ducts

[MasterC17]

In my never ending quest to ensure my pads and rotors last and perform optimally, I pursued installing brake cooling ducts.

In preliminary testing, I found that removing the braking plate from the front reduced rotor temperatures by roughly 20%. However, this exposes the ABS sensor to extreme heat and is not an ideal solution. By utilizing a brake ducting system to force-feed air into the front rotors, this brake cooling kit will not only prevent boiling fluid and pedal fade, but it can drastically reduce pad and rotor wear as well.

For this project, I chose 3" Tubing with 3" Brake Ducts and Flanges. However, there is not a lot of room to work with. It required re-routing/re-securing coolant lines and A/C lines to get the ducting to fit. That being said, it does work! It may make more sense for most people to look into 2" hardware.

I do still need to smooth out the ducts on the front aero shield, as well as build snap-in pieces to cover the holes when they are not being used on the track as I don't want reduced efficiency on the street.

 

[Leafdriver333]

I was thinking the other day that I don't need brake cooling because I hardly use my brakes.
And also the wheels stay clean for a long time because there is no brake dust.

 

[MasterC17]

I was thinking the other day that I don't need brake cooling because I hardly use my brakes.
And also the wheels stay clean for a long time because there is no brake dust.

This is intended for use on the track, not for driving on the street.

 

[beastmode13]

Impressive mod, thanks for sharing.

 

[MasterC17]

Impressive mod, thanks for sharing.

Thanks!

 

[stickman]

How did you measure rotor temp? Seems like it would be quite hard to do it accurately in a controlled test (before and after mod)

I’ll say this, you’re clearly not afraid of modding your 3

 

[beastmode13]

I use something like this to check my rotor temp at the track. By the time I am back at the pit, the rotor has cooled enough to be within the temp range of the thermometer. https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=14HNCM2YZVO44&keywords=infrared+thermometer+gun&qid=1556834371&s=gateway&sprefix=infra,aps,197&sr=8-3

There is also this temperature paint to sense max temp of the rotor. This used to be a lot cheaper. https://smile.amazon.com/Brake-Temp...rature+paint&qid=1556838617&s=gateway&sr=8-16

 

[beastmode13]

@MasterC17 BTW, I'm sure you are aware of this. You can farther increase the effectiveness of your cooling by directing the cool air to the center of the rotor, where the air intake for the vented rotors are. Even with the straight vane design of stock rotors, air is pump from the center of the rotor toward the outside edge of the rotor. Aftermarket vented rotors with curve/directional/convergent vanes are even more efficient at pumping air from the center to outside. Of course, the contour of the shield around the center makes it challenging to having a clean fit like you have now. Either way, I'm impressed with your work.

 

[space]

Fascinating, reminds me of how one of the first 2017 Model 3s on the track burned up most of their pads over the course of a single outing. Here's to hoping for your enhanced longevity, and thanks for sharing!

 

[beastmode13]

Fascinating, reminds me of how one of the first 2017 Model 3s on the track burned up most of their pads over the course of a single outing. Here's to hoping for your enhanced longevity, and thanks for sharing!

That was my friend. For the replacement pads, he had to purchase the entire caliper with it. Back then purchasing just the pass was not an option. Tesla replacement parts availability has gotten better since then, but not by much.

 

[MasterC17]

How did you measure rotor temp? Seems like it would be quite hard to do it accurately in a controlled test (before and after mod)

I’ll say this, you’re clearly not afraid of modding your 3

Thanks haha! I've previously had a hand creating purpose-built race cars, so the 3 (especially with how simple it is) does not frighten me!

I measure rotor temperatures using the same methods beatmode13 posted below. I also use a FLIR Thermal Imaging camera. My initial test was backing plate vs no backing plate which was very easy to see a difference. Now, I can try backing plate + air, vs backing plate blocked air.

I use something like this to check my rotor temp at the track. By the time I am back at the pit, the rotor has cooled enough to be within the temp range of the thermometer. https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=14HNCM2YZVO44&keywords=infrared+thermometer+gun&qid=1556834371&s=gateway&sprefix=infra,aps,197&sr=8-3

There is also this temperature paint to sense max temp of the rotor. This used to be a lot cheaper. https://smile.amazon.com/Brake-Temp...rature+paint&qid=1556838617&s=gateway&sr=8-16

@MasterC17 BTW, I'm sure you are aware of this. You can farther increase the effectiveness of your cooling by directing the cool air to the center of the rotor, where the air intake for the vented rotors are. Even with the straight vane design of stock rotors, air is pump from the center of the rotor toward the outside edge of the rotor. Aftermarket vented rotors with curve/directional/convergent vanes are even more efficient at pumping air from the center to outside. Of course, the contour of the shield around the center makes it challenging to having a clean fit like you have now. Either way, I'm impressed with your work.

Completely agreed, in an ideal world this would be blowing directly into the center of the rotor but with the axle and ABS sensor in the way there really isn't much room to do it. However, I do have 2-piece directional rotors I am installing this weekend that will further increase the efficiency of this setup.

 

[beastmode13]

Right on. Again, it is awesome to have you @MasterC17 sharing your experience and knowledge.

 

[stickman]

Thanks haha! I've previously had a hand creating purpose-built race cars, so the 3 (especially with how simple it is) does not frighten me!

I measure rotor temperatures using the same methods beatmode13 posted below. I also use a FLIR Thermal Imaging camera. My initial test was backing plate vs no backing plate which was very easy to see a difference. Now, I can try backing plate + air, vs backing plate blocked air

I guess I was wondering about the test methodology- did you do it (before and after) after sessions at the track or after a series of stops from cold or?

 

[MasterC17]

I guess I was wondering about the test methodology- did you do it (before and after) after sessions at the track or after a series of stops from cold or?

Ah! I measured rotor temperature right after pitting back in from a session. Every session the rotor with the heat shield was roughly 20% hotter than the one without.

 

[pdq]

This is intended for use on the track, not for driving on the street.

Track time in a Model 3? You may want to do a little research on how EV's do under constant WOT as it kills the battery. There is a video out there of someone taking a Model S around the Nürburgring in Germany. Results were less than amazing.

 

[wenkan]

Track time in a Model 3? You may want to do a little research on how EV's do under constant WOT as it kills the battery. There is a video out there of someone taking a Model S around the Nürburgring in Germany. Results were less than amazing.

It's funny that you didn't notice there is already a series of track experience post here.

 

[Ole1]

MasterC17:
Awesome and thank you !!!
I have been waiting a long time to have someone come out with a brake cooling setup .... it is super easy to overheat the brakes on a model3 when driven hard .... both with stock rotors, and now with 2 piece rotors on all 4 corners, it takes me only 3 to 5 HARD braking instances for my M3 to start flashing the brake overheat alarm.
As soon as my time clears up, I will look into doing a cooling duct setup on my stealth M3 ....
.... again, THANK YOU !

 

[Ole1]

Oh yeah ... why would you cover the duct holes on the street ?
....
Do you expect that the cooling would reduce you braking during street driving ?

 

[stickman]

Track time in a Model 3? You may want to do a little research on how EV's do under constant WOT as it kills the battery. There is a video out there of someone taking a Model S around the Nürburgring in Germany. Results were less than amazing.

Model 3 is a great track car. As Wenkan pointed out, a quick search of this forum will show you lots of folks are tracking their 3. Also,

 

[pdq]

Model 3 is a great track car. As Wenkan pointed out, a quick search of this forum will show you lots of folks are tracking their 3. Also,

OK -- you are brilliant.

Put up a Model 3 against Kia's and SUV's on a track, versus Porsche, BMW, MB, etc.

Wow -- I'm impressed -- what an incredible track performance!!! Your argument is brilliant.

What I was referencing was a flat out WOT throttle run video at the Nürburgring in Germany in a Model S class as seen on Youtube. To the Tesla devotees, only viewable if they take off their rose colored glasses, else you will start to cry.

Come on folks -- the Model 3 is designed to be a plain jane, low cost EV commuter car similar to the VW Beetle in 1937 with "absolutely true" FSD capability some where in the next 5 to 10 years, if you can afford it.

And the bigger question is: "Even if you can afford it, why do you need it?" Are you legally blind? Do you suffer from Macular Denegation? Have you lost your drivers license due to DUIs, recently released from prison or have drug arrests? Why is Uber or Lyft not an incredibly cheaper option? Do you not have a working credit card to your name due to defaults?

Let's get real folks and move beyond the BS leaf blower and related hype. It's all about the fundaments and free cash flow, instead of having to raising more capital which involves issuing more stock, which will dilute current stock prices. Think long term, not yesterday.