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Updates in January, 2022 increased the use of regen while using Autopilot, particularly at lower speeds. It used to just use a limited regen while Autopilot was active.Interesting. I would have thought AP would use regen as much as possible.
And it must be enabled.Slightly related, the latest software update will use the brakes to act like regen when regen is not available (battery near or at 100% SOC). Still, this is so new (and rarely used), I don't think it would affect brake wear much.
You would think but I found AP using the brakes more often than I would. One issue is AP likes to run hot to a stop light and has to use a touch of brakes to slow down. You can now see this on a 3/Y with the new firmware update. When AP is slowing down, the top power line obviously turns green to the left. Now there are parts of the green line that will turn gray indicating brake pedal is being applied.Interesting. I would have thought AP would use regen as much as possible.
I really appreciate the insights there. I still can't find a non-Tesla shop in my area who will work on Tesla brakes. Silicon Valley, no less!A quick check shows $140 per rotor and about $20 per pad (Tirerack - just a easy source, not where I would go). So all 4 would be $640. So they make almost a grand on the parts so they can get by with just $500 for labor.
In what world do all 4 rotors need to get replaced just because you hear 1 corner (front 99%) of the time with a wear indicator?
You might (actually most likely) just need $40 in parts and about 1.5 hours in relatively low skilled labor.
It would take a pretty agressive driver to warp or otherwise ruin back rotors - especially if the front pads lasted 94k miles.
No salt and low humidity in Silicon Valley - so caliper problem pretty unlikely.
104k miles on my 2015 - original front pads. Oh yeah - all the other parts original too.
In general, you would expect to replace pads about twice as often as rotors and fronts twice as often as rear. Very rough estimate. But that would still mean the OP should get 400k miles on the rear rotors. Just because BMW started the trend (and all the greedy dealers followed) of replacing rotors preventatively, does not at all mean it makes sense. A slightly thin rotor will dissipate heat a bit better. And it won't break outside of a race track.
How many miles on your S when you needed brakes?Yep, thats what I was quoted as well out here
I still can't find a non-Tesla shop in my area who will work on Tesla brakes.
Just shy of 45K. In another "brake" thread, i also talked about not feeling like I did anything wrong in so far as a driving style, my normal driving is alot like that of a 70 year old, no offense to older guys, but I seriously treat this car like a baby, i never speed or hard brake. I must be the one person that is the anomaly because from everything I ever read on this subject, Model S brakes weren't needing this early of replacement under normal driving conditionHow many miles on your S when you needed brakes?
Yeah, my pads started squealing at 93k miles and I felt like that was early.Just shy of 45K. In another "brake" thread, i also talked about not feeling like I did anything wrong in so far as a driving style, my normal driving is alot like that of a 70 year old, no offense to older guys, but I seriously treat this car like a baby, i never speed or hard brake. I must be the one person that is the anomaly because from everything I ever read on this subject, Model S brakes weren't needing this early of replacement under normal driving condition
$600 all in? Damn. What parts/brand did you use?I recently did my front brakes at about 60k miles due to pulsing in the rotors. The pads had plenty of life left but pads are so cheap I changed them too while getting the rotors done. Tesla wanted nearly $2000, I had a local shop do it for $600 all-in including labor. The parts were about $400, depending on the quality of the parts you select.
Nothing special about Tesla brakes, just get them from any auto parts store or website and move on. Make sure to get coated rotors though or you'll rust quickly.
I got a rock stuck in my front left that machined a groove in the rotor, so I replaced both front rotors and all 4 pads. That was last year around 135k miles, I’m at 158k now and have had zero subsequent issuesYour brakes are stuck, not worn. Try speeding up in an empty parking lot and then stop, slam the brakes.
This might free them or hopefully cleaning and lubing will do it.
Sometimes a rock will lodge between the rotor and shield.