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Thanks for clarification, I missed the point.I could've used better wording but I'm talking about the feel of the pedal as mentioned by the OP, not track use. The weight of my foot on the brakes of my previous C63 and even C300 would deliver confident stopping power which barely exists even with moderate pressure on the 3.
I’ve been considering the mpp master cylinder brace, but am curious why you wouldn’t consider the mpp street pads as opposed to UPPSo I have a Lr awd and I’ve been dealing with the same concern. I installed the mpp master cylinder brace and it improved the brake feel. It feels a lot more linear and predictable but I’m still not happy with it. My next step is unplugged performance street and track pads and after that ss lines and better fluid. I’m also slowly getting my car track ready so I was going to do these things anyways.
Yes, difference is immediate. It removes the free play that comes with the first 10%-15% of brake application.Have you used the brace? Did you notice a difference?
Get the master cylinder brace first. Deformation of the fire wall will happen whether the brakes are hot, warm, or cold. Removing that issues improves all situations where as pads improve some situations. I did both and am very happy with street feel although sport pads dust a good deal more.I’ve been considering the mpp master cylinder brace, but am curious why you wouldn’t consider the mpp street pads as opposed to UPP
I'm calling BS on this. I've had all German brands, and only Porsche has brakes ready for racetrack. And once you get advanced, you'll be cooking them too, unless it's one of the GT models.
On the street, termal capacity of the brake doesn't matter. As for stopping distance, critical determinant is the tire, not brake, unless you overheat them, again doesn't matter anywhere but the race track.
I’d prefer pads from mpp but they’re still working on their rear padsI’ve been considering the mpp master cylinder brace, but am curious why you wouldn’t consider the mpp street pads as opposed to UPP
SR+: 3,554#Keep in mind the SR+ is significantly lighter than the AWD variants due to having 35% less batteries and one less motor. I believe the actual kerb weight is only 3550lbs.
No reason you can’t work on your own brakes if you’ve done disk brakes before, if you’re so inclined. If not, any mechanic can do it for you, as there’s nothing different or magical about the system compared to ICE cars.Having done brakes in the past (both front discs and rear drum) when I was a poor young adult, now being much older, where should the brakes be worked on? Can any competent garage handle the brakes (not sure about whether they would screw up or break regen)? I understand the OP is doing his own work, but what about the rest of us? Do we have to go to Tesla Service Centers?
Nothing special about the Tesla brakes you can do them yourself easily.Having done brakes in the past (both front discs and rear drum) when I was a poor young adult, now being much older, where should the brakes be worked on? Can any competent garage handle the brakes (not sure about whether they would screw up or break regen)? I understand the OP is doing his own work, but what about the rest of us? Do we have to go to Tesla Service Centers?