Yes can't wait to get N2itive installed in my X, just waiting for July to come when their V2 kits come out
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Breaking down the excessive rear, inner tire wear
- Thread starter ngng
- Start date
BobX
Member
Hello EbS-P
I think your idea has merit. I hope others provide comments. Might change the caster on the front but an alignment should be able to deal with that. I don't think the industry has come to grips with the fact that these cars are really really heavy and the wide variance in specs for alignment are too big. Simply getting an X into "Green" on the alignment machine is not good enough anymore. The specs should be more specific. But, of course, with limited toe and no camber adjustment on the rear, it is easy to understand why Tesla doesn't (or can't) go down that route.
BobX
I think your idea has merit. I hope others provide comments. Might change the caster on the front but an alignment should be able to deal with that. I don't think the industry has come to grips with the fact that these cars are really really heavy and the wide variance in specs for alignment are too big. Simply getting an X into "Green" on the alignment machine is not good enough anymore. The specs should be more specific. But, of course, with limited toe and no camber adjustment on the rear, it is easy to understand why Tesla doesn't (or can't) go down that route.
BobX
My thoughts were these. It’s 50-200$ for front lowering links. And what all of 20 minutes to do it yourself included opening the package. Vs. 1700$ plus labor and an alignment for the N2itive package. I think that’s probably better but if you only need an 1” drop to get the driveshaft angle correct and fronts were the outside faster anyway.
I agrees with your statement about weight. Personally I think the compromise was for performance over ruggedness and that is reflected in tire offerings. How long will I’d stay aligned at the perfect setting? I have no clue. I just ordered the adjustable from lowering links on eBay.
I also find it hard to believe they can’t build better axels that can handle the drive angle for 100k miles.
I love to hear other thoughts before I install them.
Evan
BobX
Member
Evan: You raise a good point--how much lower does the car have to be to get the appropriate angles for the cv axles. There is a lot of discussion on "use lowering links to lower by 5mm" and then keep car in "low" . As you have pointed out, there are different ways to accomplish that. Rather than talking about lengths of rods and settings on the car, I would like to know the measurement from the ground through the center of the tire/wheel to the edge of the black plastic trim that results in the idea CV axle angles. Are we trying to get the axle perfectly straight? I have no idea and have been able to find any answers.
BobX
Member
BobX
Member
I will be installing the N2itive kit. Can you share with us what the finals specs were for your alignment? In my view the Tesla specs are too wide and therefore after an alignment that is "in spec" , it could still be problematic. Sounds like you got it right.
What you are describing is known as rake. When you change rake, you change the roll center and CG of the car. Most people adjust rake to target a front/rear grip. A truck typically has a lower front and higher rear to better handle towing/loaded bed conditions.
Sorry, I don't have any answers for you. But, this is how I would approach it.
What am I actually doing? Trying to address the shudder? Trying to improve tire wear?
How am I approaching it? Only lowering the car 1" in the front. What comparable ride height data already exists? A 1" decrease in ride height is approximately the difference between standard and low. We have data that shows always driving in low slows, but does not eliminate the damage to the CV. Is it worth it to me to do all this work, when I could just drive in low?
What I would be looking at after lowering and aligning the car would be:
- How does the vehicle handle? Is it predictable? Does it drive well?
- Then, I would look at my alignment values: Is my caster set reasonably so it will self-center?
- Finally, if all of the above are acceptable I would look at the alignment values from a wear perspective: What does my toe look like? Compared to my rear?
- What is my camber value?
All good points questions. I just got new set of tires and an alignment. No data was shared with me. I can’t tell you what height the car was aligned in. It was week 2 of owning and a new baby arrived.
I’m 2+ hours from the nearest SC. Axles are shuddering at normal acceleration while at normal height. N2itive parts won’t be available for several months. Looks like swapping the front ride height links is simple. It’s probably worth my time to swap them untill I get the axels replaced this summer and then get the N2itive kit installed and re-aligned.
I still find it difficult to believe that with a 1” lowering and beefier axel design this issue couldn’t be solved.
Harvey Danger
Member
First I heard of a newer version. Does it accomplish anything specific or is it just 'minor bug fixes and cold weather improvements'
Looks like better build... straight from their website
The next shipment will also be our newly revised parts. We’ve made a lot of changes but most notably is the ease of adjustment and we are using a fully drop forged design now for the entire arm. We also now have the option for a clear anodized finish as well. There are no pictures yet as we are working on a provisional patent application for this new design.
brainhouston
Active Member
brainhouston
Active Member
I did my alignment and the guy said same thing, slight toe in for the rear to avoid inner wear.
Not sure how much 1/16" translates to deg, but he was shooting for 0.25deg in.
Not sure how much 1/16" translates to deg, but he was shooting for 0.25deg in.
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