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My thoughts were these. It’s 50-200$ for front lowering links. And what all of 20 minutes to do it yourself included opening the package. Vs. 1700$ plus labor and an alignment for the N2itive package. I think that’s probably better but if you only need an 1” drop to get the driveshaft angle correct and fronts were the outside faster anyway.Hello EbS-P
I think your idea has merit. I hope others provide comments. Might change the caster on the front but an alignment should be able to deal with that. I don't think the industry has come to grips with the fact that these cars are really really heavy and the wide variance in specs for alignment are too big. Simply getting an X into "Green" on the alignment machine is not good enough anymore. The specs should be more specific. But, of course, with limited toe and no camber adjustment on the rear, it is easy to understand why Tesla doesn't (or can't) go down that route.
BobX
I will be installing the N2itive kit. Can you share with us what the finals specs were for your alignment? In my view the Tesla specs are too wide and therefore after an alignment that is "in spec" , it could still be problematic. Sounds like you got it right.I had to replace my rear tires after only 17000km. After doing the math what it would cost me to have this replacement 2 a year for the coming 5 years, I've found, purchased and installed the kit from N2itive. Since then wheel allignment is perfect and the rear tire wear has gone back to normal.
My thoughts were these. It’s 50-200$ for front lowering links. And what all of 20 minutes to do it yourself included opening the package. Vs. 1700$ plus labor and an alignment for the N2itive package. I think that’s probably better but if you only need an 1” drop to get the driveshaft angle correct and fronts were the outside faster anyway.
I agrees with your statement about weight. Personally I think the compromise was for performance over ruggedness and that is reflected in tire offerings. How long will I’d stay aligned at the perfect setting? I have no clue. I just ordered the adjustable from lowering links on eBay.
I also find it hard to believe they can’t build better axels that can handle the drive angle for 100k miles.
I love to hear other thoughts before I install them.
Evan
What you are describing is known as rake. When you change rake, you change the roll center and CG of the car. Most people adjust rake to target a front/rear grip. A truck typically has a lower front and higher rear to better handle towing/loaded bed conditions.
1” drop at the front of the the 117” wheel base lowers the CG about 0.5” Adding about 0.5 degrees of rake. The foreword shift is negligible. Adding passengers probably changes the CG location more.
All good points questions. I just got new set of tires and an alignment. No data was shared with me. I can’t tell you what height the car was aligned in. It was week 2 of owning and a new baby arrived.Sorry, I don't have any answers for you. But, this is how I would approach it.
What am I actually doing? Trying to address the shudder? Trying to improve tire wear?
How am I approaching it? Only lowering the car 1" in the front. What comparable ride height data already exists? A 1" decrease in ride height is approximately the difference between standard and low. We have data that shows always driving in low slows, but does not eliminate the damage to the CV. Is it worth it to me to do all this work, when I could just drive in low?
What I would be looking at after lowering and aligning the car would be:
- How does the vehicle handle? Is it predictable? Does it drive well?
- Then, I would look at my alignment values: Is my caster set reasonably so it will self-center?
- Finally, if all of the above are acceptable I would look at the alignment values from a wear perspective: What does my toe look like? Compared to my rear?
- What is my camber value?
First I heard of a newer version. Does it accomplish anything specific or is it just 'minor bug fixes and cold weather improvements'Yes can't wait to get N2itive installed in my X, just waiting for July to come when their V2 kits come out
Looks like better build... straight from their websiteFirst I heard of a newer version. Does it accomplish anything specific or is it just 'minor bug fixes and cold weather improvements'
Is this ur own preference?I typically align my cars with 1/16" total front toe out (negative) and 1/16" total rear toe in (positive), sometimes zero.
Is this ur own preference?
Whats the reasoning for it?